Anyone done the 600hr front axle pivot or 800 hr engine valve clearance adjustment?

[k0ua]

Thanks for the tips Dirthauler. Thanks also for relaying your experience of waiting until 4500hrs to check the valves. I guess if the engine starts easily that is pretty good reassurance that the valves are in proper adjustment. I think I will defer on the valves but will check the front pivot this summer.

Kind of what I was thinking. If he went to 4500 hours and it was still fine... well.. I might not live long enough to see that many hours at the rate I am racking them up on the "yote. No... I will be pushing up daisies long long before that.

 

[IslandTractor]

Kind of what I was thinking. If he went to 4500 hours and it was still fine... well.. I might not live long enough to see that many hours at the rate I am racking them up on the "yote. No... I will be pushing up daisies long long before that.

I agree James, (we agree on most things outside of politics!!:thumbsup but I think I will pass on Dirthauler's advice to my grandkids. They can adjust the valves!

 

[ritcheyvs]

Many moons ago I had an old mechanic teach me how to adjust valves by 'ear'.
One at a time starting at one end or the other, with the engine warmed up to operating temperature, loosen the first lock nut. Turn the screw out (loosen) and listen for the tappet to start its' inevitable 'clacking', then tighten the screw until you hear the engine stumble and then turn to a point in between the 'clacking' and the 'stumble' and lock the nut. You are good to go on that valve. Do that one at a time with all the rest.
The unfortunate thing is that the old guy that taught me that is dead so I can't argue with him on it.

This is a bad idea for many reasons, not the least of which is you can't precisely adjust the screw in a running rocker arm. Also, oil goes everywhere and the specs are for a cold engine.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Don't know how the DK40 compares to the CK30 but one of the PITA things is you have to remove the right loader mount in order to get to the timing "window" on the right hand side of the clutch housing, the various pieces of engine including the exhaust system just to remove the rocker cover and yes remove the glow plugs too. ...

The earlier manuals specify this same flywheel method for positioning the cam, but the EX manual (which I think applies to the DKxxSE) specifies positioning the cam shaft by observing just the valve/rocker arm positions. Removing the rocker cover is unavoidable for valve adjustment, but the DKxxSE may be easier than DirtHauler's CK.

 

[Looking4new]

This is a bad idea for many reasons, not the least of which is you can't precisely adjust the screw in a running rocker arm. Also, oil goes everywhere and the specs are for a cold engine.

Bad idea or good idea that is what I was taught.

 

[npalen]

I have this mental video of someone somewhere sometime in my past adjusting valve lash using a feeler gauge while the engine is running. This person is using, in the other hand, a special tool to adjust the clearance and then tighten the locknut all with the engine running. I can almost hear the engine running but don't recall who where or when.
The whole valve adjusting thing also brings back memories of, while still in high school, adjusting the rocker arms on my '57 chevy 283. It had hydraulic lifters but still had to get the adjustment in the ballpark after reassembling heads to the block. Had to run the engine with the valve covers off while adjusting the hex nut which threw oil onto the exhaust manifolds which smelled awful. Found out later there were special clips to attach to the rocker arms to contain the oil.

Edit: Oh, and also remember running my thumb between the generator pulley and fanbelt on the '57. Happened very fast but didn't break any bones or cut severely. Kind of smarted, however.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

My BX was at the dealer shop for some casualty work paid for by KTAC. While there I asked about the valve adjustment at 800 Hrs, per the manual, as it was past that point already. The shop foreman said he would do it but would be minimum 2 hrs labor + gaskets and it really was not necessary. He stated they had never had a Kubota engine require the adjustment as a routine scheduled maintenance. He said they can evaluate the situation by listening to the engine with a stethoscope. At least he was honest and did not perform a service that was not necessary like some shops would probably do. I took his advice.

Ron

 

[ritcheyvs]

...The whole valve adjusting thing also brings back memories of, while still in high school, adjusting the rocker arms on my '57 chevy 283. It had hydraulic lifters but still had to get the adjustment in the ballpark after reassembling heads ...

On the 283, the adjustment point was a special nut, on a stationary stud, which provided the fulcrum for the rocker arm. It did not jump around like the screw at the rod-end of the rocker. And you are right; oil went everywhere without those clips.

 

[Patches]

We routinely adjusted solid lifter rockers with the engines running "back-in-the-day" after a rebuild. If I recall correctly, they were speced with engine at normal operating temp to allow for thermal expansion. If adjusted cold, they would become way too tight at temp.

 

[murph1]

We routinely adjusted solid lifter rockers with the engines running "back-in-the-day" after a rebuild. If I recall correctly, they were speced with engine at normal operating temp to allow for thermal expansion. If adjusted cold, they would become way too tight at temp.

I had a solid cam big block chevy and the adjustment was done with engine hot and off.