Snow Attachments Snow PUMP

[fitterski]

I know for sure that this statement is wrong but don't get to excited. I could be wrong too. I just remember reading that if you "double your rpm you can transmit 4x the hp" somewhere. If I can't find the answer on the internet I have engineer friends that will know.

The reason I know that you can transmit more hp by doubling the rpm is because that's why 1000 rpm pto's were developed. I'm just not 100% sure on how much. I'm pretty sure the article said 4x because that's what stick in my mind but it probably around 35 years since I read that.

You must have read about air resistance for your rat-rod. That one does increase with the square of the speed. There are may ways to calculate power, if you double the rpm and the torque now that's different story.

 

[KWentling]

I bagged the engine yesterday, it's the 175hp version with 138 kiloclicks on it made for clutch-jobs. Apparently the automatics couldn't take 175 so their engines were detuned to 160. Sounds like a stretch but that's what the vendor told me. I would have thought he opposite, that since automatics are gentle on the piston rods you can turn more horses lose with them. Anyway, this part of the puzzle is solved, I'm very happy that I dumped the duramax idea. This thing will start with a booster cable and will never again know if there's a battery connected to it or not. ALL engines should be made like this

I will check to see if killer dowel pin is modded, then just test it as is.

I can vouch for the detuned engines on the early 2nd gen Dodges. I had a '95 with the auto. Corrected that with a '98 5-speed.

 

[fitterski]

I can vouch for the detuned engines on the early 2nd gen Dodges. I had a '95 with the auto. Corrected that with a '98 5-speed.

Did YOU notice a significant power increase from 160 to either 215 or 235?

As far as my use of a transmission might become a factor, that'll be if and when I morphe the machine into a truck hosted one, and then I would rather use an automatic with a transfer case which would give me some usable outshaft rpm options. A standard would give me those options too but if my wife clears the snow then a nice linear auto selector N-1-2/4Lo1-2 sortof thing would be much more practical. What I don't understand is why the engine needs to be throttled or derated when there are automatics handling 500hp. This one is over my head, what auto and tx-case could I use in such an eventuality after raising the HP to maybe 230-250?

 

[fitterski]

Well I like the idea of a Cummins sitting on the back of a Ford! It would be nice if you could run both the Ford and the snowblower with the cummins but that's a bit of a rig-a-marole. If you do settle for a 24 valve they can be changed to a P-pump by changing the front cover. The aftermarket makes injectors and fuel lines that work. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-24v-p-pump-conversion/ lots of information in this forum. If you bump up the horse power make sure you torque the head bolts to 125 (?) ft lbs. I think that's the number. Or use ARP or equivalent head studs.

I looked into p-pumping it but now with the 12 valve bought it's no longer required. I think it's cheaper to buy a 12-valve and boost it. As for the rigmarole option it's less so in my case because an in-line 6 might just leave more room for a drive-shaft. If I plan aEhad and scout for a wrecked f350 with no engine then the cost would be offset too.

 

[KWentling]

Did YOU notice a significant power increase from 160 to either 215 or 235?

As far as my use of a transmission might become a factor, that'll be if and when I morphe the machine into a truck hosted one, and then I would rather use an automatic with a transfer case which would give me some usable outshaft rpm options. A standard would give me those options too but if my wife clears the snow then a nice linear auto selector N-1-2/4Lo1-2 sortof thing would be much more practical. What I don't understand is why the engine needs to be throttled or derated when there are automatics handling 500hp. This one is over my head, what auto and tx-case could I use in such an eventuality after raising the HP to maybe 230-250?


View attachment 497536

There was absolutely a noticeable increase in power. A friend bought a '97 5-speed and that truck would run away from my '95 on big hills. My '98 that replaced the '95 pulled the same trailers better too. I know the later Dodges weren't derated with the automatics but I don't know what year or transmissions those were. Those RE transmissions are going to put you back into having to deal with electronic controls. They put Allison transmissions behind those engines in Ford's F750 trucks but I think those are also electronic controlled but would be another option. Those engines were in a lot of construction applications so there are probably other options too.

The aftermarket builders did a good job beefing up the Dodge autos so any of them could be made to work for you. I'm not sure what all was done to beef them up but I think the torque converters and clutch pressures were improved. I think some of the reasons Dodge derated the first years autos was because of the torquey characteristic and the low rpm that the Cummins makes that torque at was a challenge to make an auto live with. The v8s were a little smoother and made their power at higher rpms so it was a little easier for Ford and GM autos to cope with.

 

[bigdeano]

The NP205 is considered one of the strongest transfer cases for pickups. It's all gear drive. I don't know what years Dodge used them.

 

[fitterski]

The NP205 is considered one of the strongest transfer cases for pickups. It's all gear drive. I don't know what years Dodge used them.

I know they weigh like a hundred pounds but this guy is holding one like he was waiting at the cashier with it and determined not to let go :laughing::laughing:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_H3LmUSIH80E/TGeKwqfX-jI/AAAAAAAAAFI/PXvF0un8keI/s1600/np205za.JPG

Can you flip a tx-case so that it will fall on one side of the driveline or the other? I only need it to get some low gearing and only if i build on a truck, but if i could have it on the left side then i could mount the engine closer to CL on the truck frame.

 

[pmsmechanic]

You don't need maximum horsepower to move the truck you only need it to run the blower. So that means any automatic will do the job. You're not going back and forth so you don't need to worry about overheating the trans oil. All you need to do is keep the rpms up enough so that the torque convertor isn't in stall. Since you need rpm's for the snowblower the torque convertor stalling isn't an issue. Just don't run the snow blower off of the transmission. Run it off of a pulley on the engine. Preferably off of the rear of the engine.

A well built cummins will shred a 205 transfer case as will a built Chev 350 for that matter. You're better off with a 241 or a 271. But again that isn't going to be an issue unless you come to a dead stop at full throttle. Ford 271's can be economically modified to fit onto the rear of a Dodge standard or automatic. Also any of these three transfer cases can be made to drop to either side so that isn't an issue either.

 

[bigdeano]

The OP is going to put the Cummins in the bed of the pickup hooked to the transmission and transfer case. Power for the blower will be taken from the transfer case output to use the gear reduction for proper speed of the blower impeller.

 

[fitterski]

The OP is going to put the Cummins in the bed of the pickup hooked to the transmission and transfer case. Power for the blower will be taken from the transfer case output to use the gear reduction for proper speed of the blower impeller.

Yes, that'd be the rough idea in a truck setup. Whether I'd use the main output or what normally goes to the front differential would remain to be seen. The truck would need excellent 4x4 traction (studs and chains) just like one would need for a plow. The only constraint using the front-axle output would be that the engine would have to be facing forward which would put it too far in the front end of where the box had been. It's a C of G issue mostly. Or I could mod a tx-case to provide a side output in the normal direction parallel to the main out-shaft. That would give me the best of both worlds, good weight distribution and a lateral offset allowing the engine to be closer to CL, but would probably involve too much work and increased risks of oil leaks.