Adding a fuse to a Kubota fuse block or other options?

[Fallon]

I need to add in a 15@ or so ignition switched circuit on my Kubota L3200 (full project at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/321704-linear-actuator-power-ssqa-13.html) and am trying to figure out the cleanest way to do it. I'd love to use one of the empty fuse slots in my OEM block, but they are just empty holes with no contacts. Anybody know what tools & parts are needed to add in the appropriate contacts?

Other options:

• Scotch lock quick connectors. Not my favorite at all, but I could tap into one of the other switched lines.
• Cut 'n solder. It's a pain to do, even more so given there is little to no slack in the wires & trying to solder 3 wires together (1 back together & adding the 3rd) is a nightmare.
• Run directly to the battery. Doable, but there goes the battery when the bucket cam says on when I put it to bed
• Run directly to the battery + relay. Doable, but I still have issues tapping into the existing wires & a fair bit of extra cost for parts & my time.

Suggestions?

 

[jaydee325]

This is a bit pricey but it is a quality unit and is very easy to install, especially if you get their wiring kit.

I've had one on my motorcycle for a couple of years now and it's been trouble free.

FUZEBLOCKS.COM

 

[GPintheMitten]

I would like to know too. There already is a fuse block with empty spaces, so adding a circuit to the existing block should be doable.

 

[C4Ranch]

Could do a fuse splice.

 

[katoomed00]

Do a search on Ebay for Add a circuit, cheap and easy. I purchased a few to have spares.

 

[George2615]

I'm not a fan of scotch locks. I just rewired a friends trailer that was loaded with them. Too much salt corrosion in our area made them poor conductors. I used heat shrink crimp connectors to replace the scotch locks. HF sells them as well as many other stores. I've added circuits by cutting a line and installing these connectors. Add a circuit works too.

 

[varmint]

A while back, I posted this link: might be just what you need?

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?fo...ielcj98i-ab164175-36cb-4eef-8006-f130bd9baf67

 

[aczlan]

Here are a couple, one might work for you:
Amazon.com: E Support 12v Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder Pack of 5: Home Improvement
Amazon.com: Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit: Automotive

Aaron Z

 

[Stick895]

I have this on my motorcycle and it works well. Main

 

[Dave M7040]

If I were doing it I would use a relay to switch power to an accessory fuse block as seen in the many links in replies to your post. A headlight relay would do this easily.
The relay could be triggered or turned on by any existing switched circuit. I would feed the relay power for the fuse block from the main battery terminal on the starter solenoid using a fusible link.
A fusible link is a short piece of insulated low-voltage cable within an automotive wiring harness that is designed to protect the harness in applications where a fuse is unsuitable.
There are many suppliers of these low cost safety links.
Dave M7040

 

[dstig1]

I think I know what you want, and I did it once. IIRC, The kubota fuse block feeds power to all the slots on one side, and then there is another socket/terminal on the other side of the blade for active circuits that they actually installed. It either has a contact/socket or is blank on the load side. So you need to come up with a way to make a "blade socket" for the one side, and you can add a circuit easily. It was quite a while ago, so i don't recall the details, but I basically went to a bunch of auto parts stores and places like Fleet Farm/TSC to see what I could find, with a fuse in hand. I finally found something that fit the blade, and then figured out a way to put it into the slot on the fuse block from behind and secure it. I don't recall how exactly i did it, but it was not hard. I think what I used for a contact did not enclose the blade on all sides, but was one sided. Careful bending with needle nose and a small vise made it fit as required. It held up well, and is still in service today (sold the tractor to a coworker a couple-few years back). Wish I recalled all the details as it was a good hack, but I pretty much just winged it and it worked fine. very clean install, and you would not know it unless you went into the back of the fuse block and looked closely.

Now switching it with ignition requires you to tap into an ignition triggered circuit to run a relay. I did that with this one too as it was for the third function for the grapple. Just find a lightly loaded ignition switched circuit and have that feed the coil on a suitably sized 12V relay, and you are in business. Feed from your new fuse circuit to the IN contact on the relay, then feed from the OUT contact to your load or switch.

 

[aczlan]

I think I know what you want, and I did it once. IIRC, The kubota fuse block feeds power to all the slots on one side, and then there is another socket/terminal on the other side of the blade for active circuits that they actually installed. It either has a contact/socket or is blank on the load side. So you need to come up with a way to make a "blade socket" for the one side, and you can add a circuit easily. It was quite a while ago, so i don't recall the details, but I basically went to a bunch of auto parts stores and places like Fleet Farm/TSC to see what I could find, with a fuse in hand. I finally found something that fit the blade, and then figured out a way to put it into the slot on the fuse block from behind and secure it. I don't recall how exactly i did it, but it was not hard. I think what I used for a contact did not enclose the blade on all sides, but was one sided. Careful bending with needle nose and a small vise made it fit as required. It held up well, and is still in service today (sold the tractor to a coworker a couple-few years back). Wish I recalled all the details as it was a good hack, but I pretty much just winged it and it worked fine. very clean install, and you would not know it unless you went into the back of the fuse block and looked closely.

I think what you would want would be one of these: 20 Pcs 6.3mm Brass Crimp Terminal Cable Female Spade Connector: Wire Terminals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific if you have full size blade fuses, or one of these: Amazon.com: URBEST®20 Pcs Female Spade Cable Wire Terminals for 2.8mm Connectors: Home Improvement if you have the mini blade fuses.
That should slide into the empty slot on the fuse block and let you install a fuse.

Aaron Z

 

[Scrambler82]

Fallon,

Was wondering where you went on this project ?

I get into these postings late and make comments but they go nowhere.

Let us know what you did and how it worked out ?

 

[Fallon]

I got lazy & just tapped an existing wire. Unfortunately apparently I miscalculated & tapped an switched one. I haven't fixed my bucket cam yet, so I just leave the monitor off & the power SSQA doesn't pull any juice unless it's running. At some point I'll fix it & tap a switched wire.

 

[aczlan]

I got lazy & just tapped an existing wire. Unfortunately apparently I miscalculated & tapped an switched one. I haven't fixed my bucket cam yet, so I just leave the monitor off & the power SSQA doesn't pull any juice unless it's running. At some point I'll fix it & tap a switched wire.

Get one of those add a fused tap adapters. It goes into the fusebox in place of a fuse and adds an additional tap with its own fuse.

Aaron Z

 

[Scrambler82]

Are you still putting in a fuse block ?
If so run the fused main power from the battery, you can break the power wire with a relay controlled from a key switch, that way nothing is left on or run it straight to the fuse block to power a lot of things direct.

Let us know how,you make out.

 

[Fallon]

Are you still putting in a fuse block ?
If so run the fused main power from the battery, you can break the power wire with a relay controlled from a key switch, that way nothing is left on or run it straight to the fuse block to power a lot of things direct.

Let us know how,you make out.

Well as mentioned earlier I took the easy way out & just spliced into a wire behind the fuse block. It worked fine until I sold it. No I'm wiring up my new L4060 & running into basically the same quandary on how to do it right & make it look nice. Put a nice 10 fuse & 5 relay block up in the head liner & ran 6 gauge (way overkill) up to a 60@ fuse & relay combo next to the battery & that goes directly to the battery. Just need to tap into an ignition switched wire to run the relay up front.

Still looking for that connector so I can do a nice splice & extension to tap into the 5@ radio fuse.

 

[crazyal]

I would add a separate fuse block. You should be able to find a universal one with a relay. Just set it up so the relay energizes the fuse block when the key is turned on.

 

[aczlan]

I would add a separate fuse block. You should be able to find a universal one with a relay. Just set it up so the relay energizes the fuse block when the key is turned on.

As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

 

[crazyal]

As I understand it, that is what he's doing. He's just looking for a clean way to get key switched power to trigger the relay.

Aaron Z

Ahhh. Are there any spare connectors for something like a rear work light? On the open station tractors there are three behind the seat. If not then how about the cigarette lighter (I assume the cabbed tractors have them)? I would just use the wire going to that and then run a new wire from the new fuse block back down to it (or just tap into it for a less clean look). Ideally finding a source for the connectors that Kubota uses would be ideal.