JD Quick Hitch

   / JD Quick Hitch #21  
If you can cut and drill steel, you can modify the blade easily. Remove the bolt/pin and spread the arms slightly. Cut two heavy steel flatbars and drill (hole saw) holes such that it bolts between the arms and has a pin hole at 15" above the lower pins.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #22  
Musdalen
What are the dimensions on the two yellow lines in this image of your blade?

Or as KennyG suggests.. I had a similar idea that I needed your dimensions. But is doable.
 

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   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#23  
The vertical is 19" (to the bolt at the tip of your arrow - 21" to the pin hole above the bolt)
The horizontal is 27"
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #24  
These may help:
 

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   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#25  
Kenny, I think I'm going to work with your suggestion. I have the stuff to make that work. Thanks.

Brent
 
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Wagtail,
Thanks for those drawings. However nothing I have currently fits the vertical dimension "N" in the first drawing. Granted my blade is pretty old and maybe things weren't that standardized but the other two are 10 yrs and maybe 3 yr old and they don't fit either. Frustrating. But I'll figure it out. You guys have me convinced it is worth the effort.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #27  
Quote Originally Posted by Musdalen
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The cutter does have a flex link. If I take it off and use the lower pivot where it attaches to the cutter, I can probably make the mower work.


If you remove the flex link you should modify the A frame and the bracing behind it to restore the flexibility.

Hard to tell in the picture, but the flex link may be installed upside down?

If you replace the straps with chains, you will have to modify this to allow the A frame to pivot to the rear.

20170302_555 .jpg
 
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Xfaxman, yup. That's the plan more or less. If the "pivot" is a weld (I haven't really looked), I might do something different but if not, that is the easy solution. In the event the bracket it welded there, I might go with a chain or at least some sort of semiflexible top link. What I mean by semi flexible would be a link of chain strung through a pipe. That would allow a large range of motion but not completely unlimited motion. I'd have to experiment with that. But your plan is the simplest, so long as that A Frame is not welded. My land is quite flat, so I don't really need a whole bunch of flex anyway.

The flex link is not upside down but I flipped it upside down. I would not normally hook up to it in this position.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #29  
It isn't welded. Remove the pin, make the hole in the A frame bigger for a bushing, put the pin back with a flat washer on each side of the bushing and tighten the nut.
 
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