JD Quick Hitch

   / JD Quick Hitch #11  
A couple pics of my mods to get my attachments copacetic with the invaluable iMatch.. quick dropping of the ballast box and picking up the forks for moving a pallet of wood to the house when it is below zero F is a real treat.. 5 minute job.

Pic of bushings for lower arms which you may have. There is sometimes a split driven pin to secure them.
Modification added to carry-all for the top hook, showing a bushing.
Mod to my forks to be able to easily attach using the iMatch (having the hyd. top arm is helpful when using the iMatch too).
Some ideas (from other TBN member) for adding "parts" to the iMatch for carrying chains and such.. I also added grab hooks for using the iMatch to pull logs out of the woods.

Hope this helps with your decisions...
 

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   / JD Quick Hitch #12  
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The cutter does have a flex link. If I take it off and use the lower pivot where it attaches to the cutter, I can probably make the mower work.

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If you remove the flex link you should modify the A frame and the bracing behind it to restore the flexibility.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Xfaxman, good point, though I do not recall having any flex in my old Huskee cutter.

Is there such a thing as a sliding top link, that would accomplish the same purpose?
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #14  
With my rotary cutter, I replaced the steel straps with chain.. all the flexibility needed.
 

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   / JD Quick Hitch #15  
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Chain.. duh. Someday I'll grow up and learn to think.

Meanwhile here are a couple of pics of two of the implements that I want to quick hitch too.

This is the blade. Its an Arps implement for what it is worth. Anyway, I like it a lot and I am very loath to give it up.
The diagonal braces come together with a bolt that is at 19" above the lift arm pins. So, simply reconfiguring the braces so the hook could attach there would still be 2" above the widest setting of the JD QH, and I don't think that works, or at least not well. Beyond welding, drilling, bending, or other major overhauls, I don't see how to get this tool to fit.
20170302_171555.jpg


Here is the mower. The braces meet at 18" and I'm sure this would work well enough. I could replace the braces that go back on the mower with chain or I could simply use a chain toplink (thanks Xfaxman for pointing that out). The mower doesn't bother me much, I won't use it a whole bunch anyway.
20170302_171730.jpg
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #17  
If the top pin of the blade is not too high, you could use the adapter.

Speeco quick hitch adapter for use with Category I Hitch Attachments

SPCO-HF141145-2T.jpg

The wide part where the pin is fits on the top tower of the QH using the top link pin. The single part goes to the implement.

TopLinkAdapter.jpg

In some cases this may still be too short. They you can drill holes in a couple of steel bars at the spacing needed and place them between the top link pin and the implement.

TopLinkAdapterBCP.JPG
 
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#18  
A flex link on a grading blade interferes, at least a little, with my ability to adjust the aggressiveness of the blade pitch, which is sometimes important. But it would be a solution of sorts.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch
  • Thread Starter
#19  
A flex link on a grading blade interfere, at least a little, with my ability to adjust the aggressiveness of the blade pitch, which is sometimes important. But it would be a solution of sorts.

At the moment, I am thinking about making (more like have made) a new hook that simply positions higher using the same bolt holes on the current QH. Bring it up to 18". Then it works for everything except the blade that I would have to reconfigure to a 19" pin height and hope that would be fine, so long as I made the throat the hook a couple inches deep. I suppose someone would charge me $100 for that a metal fab shop.
 
   / JD Quick Hitch #20  
It isn't a flex link as each end is fixed. No motion in the linkage. Same distance between QH and implement at all times.

Bruce
 

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