Any Ideas for a Cheap Compact Rear 3 Pt Counterweight?

[Luke'sScreenName]

Does a heavy 3pt weight box cause any problems with the tractor 3pt hitch? Can the tractor support that weight or is it better to mount it in a way that the weight is not so much borne by the 3pt hitch?

I'm curious where you are going with this?

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I am sure that every topic needed has come up at least once before, there really is no need for this discussion board any longer, they can just archive it all. Well there is that other thing.... discussion. Some people just like discussing and it is actually strange that they created discussion/message boards like this just for that purpose.

Increased traffic, increased discussions, more threads, more value.... more money for the company (theoretically).

I sometimes see threads running and jump on reading them and learn some things I never even knew I didn't know or realized I should want to know. Glad people on this forum keep asking questions instead of just doing a search. A search usually only helps one person where a thread can help hundreds and thousands. The search feature is also good to have if your in a hurry and know what your specific need/question is. I use both with 98% use being reading current posted/running threads in the Kubota Forums.

 

[sixdogs]

I'm curious where you are going with this?

Uhhh, Cleveland?
Not going anywhere.


But I have often thought of adding a substantial (1500 lb) weight box to a tractor and haven't because I wasn't sure if it was fully OK to do or just sort-of OK to do. Not sure of the impact on the hydraulics and that invites my question.

 

[jmc]

I want to modify my boxblade to hold concrete blocks inside of it- rig up a quickly removable floor, probably with a front lip on that floor to retain the contents if the scarfier cross beam has too much gap under it.

Solid concrete caps 16"x8"x4", 34 lbs each, $1.09 each at Lowes. (Note actual dimensions)
Shop Cap Concrete Block (Common: 4-in x 8-in x 16-in; Actual: 3.625-in x 7.625-in x 15.625-in) at Lowes.com

If the floor is mounted a little deeper, the implement could also serve as a limited tool carrier even with the blocks in it.

And it can still be used as a scraper/pusher in reverse.

 

[mike69440]

I want to modify my boxblade to hold concrete blocks inside of it- rig up a quickly removable floor, probably with a front lip on that floor to retain the contents if the scarfier cross beam has too much gap under it.

Solid concrete caps 16"x8"x4", 34 lbs each, $1.09 each at Lowes. (Note actual dimensions)
Shop Cap Concrete Block (Common: 4-in x 8-in x 16-in; Actual: 3.625-in x 7.625-in x 15.625-in) at Lowes.com

If the floor is mounted a little deeper, the implement could also serve as a limited tool carrier even with the blocks in it.

And it can still be used as a scraper/pusher in reverse.

If you don't get fancy and just use the HF QH lifting hooks, a bar with barbells (bought off CL) would work, and is very compact and easy to remove.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/327912-custom-3-point-attachment-2-a.html?highlight=

 

[Egon]

If the counter weight is made from stuff laying around it's logical that it'll have to be built to suit the stuff.

 

[JBjunior]

I sometimes see threads running and jump on reading them and learn some things I never even knew I didn't know or realized I should want to know. Glad people on this forum keep asking questions instead of just doing a search. A search usually only helps one person where a thread can help hundreds and thousands. The search feature is also good to have if your in a hurry and know what your specific need/question is. I use both with 98% use being reading current posted/running threads in the Kubota Forums.

I agree, there is room for both. I personally like the discussion, depending on the topic, because new ideas come up regularly and there might have been improvements. Then we jump on people for bumping an old thread if they follow on that one and jump on them for starting a new one instead of searching. This is a discussion board, it is fine to point people toward other topics on the subject, but if you don't want to join in... move on. I dislike seeing the immediate response of "you should have searched first" like each thread is personally costing them money and they are upset about it.

 

[Captain Dirty]

I was hoping some of the creative folks here could suggest something fairly compact that I could put together from the scrap pile.

Not sure what's in your scrap pile. If you keep a scrap pile, I'll assume you have a welder. Here is my suggestion:

30 or 55 gallon drum depending on weight you want. More on the calculations later.
A steel rod of appropriate length and diameter to extend between 3 pt lifting arms.
Angle iron to make a bracket for the top link and sufficient scrap (like re-bar) to anchor the bracket in the concrete used to fill the drum.
Some 4" to 6" pipe (steel preferable, plastic acceptable)
Concrete (you could use sand, stone, or whatever, but the rod, bracket, and drum would have to be attached to each other strongly enough to resist the forces the concrete would absorb).

Put the bar horizontally through the drum fairly near the bottom but with at least 6" of space around it for the concrete. You want the bar low enough so the weight will ride with the lift arms all the way down; this will mean storing the counterweight on blocks. Place the top link bracket appropriately, ensuring the anchoring rods will also be surrounded by concrete. Place a couple of lengths of pipe vertically, again so they will be surrounded by concrete. These will be holders for long handled tools (rake, shovel, peavey), and, if you use steel pipe extending a couple of inches above the concrete, hold chain with the hook over the lip. (Schedule 40 plastic will break if used that way.) Fill the drum more than 2/3 full; the space at the top can be used for chainsaw fuel, bar oil, or other stuff you use in the woods. After the concrete sets drill weep holes to let water escape from the space at the top and from the cavities made by the pipes. Make a "rug" from the drumhead or something else to help prevent chipping of the concrete from whatever you carry on top.

Calculations: Concrete weighs approx. 150 lbs per cu ft or 20 lbs per gallon. Four inch pipe displaces approx. 0.83 gallons per lineal foot; 6" pipe approx. 1.79 gallons per ft. A 55 gal. drum completely filled would weigh approx. 1100 lbs. Filled 2/3 full with a 6" pipe it would weigh a little north of 600 lbs. Decide how much weight you want and how much of a lip you need to restrain the stuff you carry.

 

[LD1]

Concrete is hads down gonna be the cheapest.

If you have suitcase weights laying around, that would be nice and easy to modify and simple to build. But if you dont have them, around here weights go for $1 a pound. So to get the ~1500#+ that you need, thats gonna be $1500+.

That same 1500# would only require 25 60# sacks of ready mix at ~$2.50 ea. And that would make ~12-13 cubic foot.

A 30" x 30" x 30" form, would take ~31 bags and get you to ~1800#. And if you have the scraps of lumber for the form and the steel to run through for pins, should cost less than $100.

For a MX, and a compact weight, 1500+ would be what I would want. I have a 1000# weight barrel made for my old L3400. While its better than nothing, it isnt sufficient enough to use the loader to the max. IE: I can still pick the back tires up.

 

[FatTire]

I agree, there is room for both. I personally like the discussion, depending on the topic, because new ideas come up regularly and there might have been improvements. Then we jump on people for bumping an old thread if they follow on that one and jump on them for starting a new one instead of searching. This is a discussion board, it is fine to point people toward other topics on the subject, but if you don't want to join in... move on. I dislike seeing the immediate response of "you should have searched first" like each thread is personally costing them money and they are upset about it.

Agreed. I've found some great stuff in old threads that someone bumped. I think everyone appreciates it if they mention it in the first new post that they bumping or reviving an old thread.