Yet another ballast box question

   / Yet another ballast box question #1  

Fastball

Silver Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Messages
179
Location
North Okanagan, British Columbia
Tractor
Kubota L2900
I'm trying to build some kind of 3pt ballast box for my Kubota L2900.
I've seen dozens and dozens of nice plans here, and will try to incorporate some of the ideas in my finished product. I don't weld, though. I might be able to find a guy, but would rather try to do it in house. So I'm limited to bolting, screwing, tieing rebar together with wire, and bending metal with a vise and lots of grunt.
I'm thinking about running a 26-inch drawbar through some kind of wooden box frame and filling it with cement. My problem is trying to tie into the top link. Firstly, the terminology. What is that connecting piece(s) actually called in the industry? I've seen some of those triangular 3pt hitch receivers...I'm talking about the two arms that go up to the top link and connect with the pin.
Can I get some kind of flat bar (sway bar) and bend it to fit and bolt it to one of the holes in the drawbar...and then go up to the top link?
Or if my box is not very tall, is a connection to the top link necessary? What is the cutoff in height to prevent it from swinging/swaying back and forth? I hope i'm Not being too hopelessly vague here.

Thanks for any and all suggestions.
 
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   / Yet another ballast box question #2  
There are lots of homemade plans on here and I made one myself. But it is a whole lot easier to go down to the store and buy one and save the grief and ciphering.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #3  
You could build a concrete form around something like a 3pt trailer mover?
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #4  
I'm with Luke. If I had zero metal working skills I'd buy a 3pt adapter or trailer mover or whatever you want to call it. Then I'd build a wooden form around it and fill it with wet concrete. Knock the wood box off and there you go. :)
 
   / Yet another ballast box question
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I'm absolutely tempted to get a trailer hitch setup and build around it. Which brings me to my latest pet peeve...which is the absolutely insanely frustrating aspect of seeing all this stuff available in the USA - and seeing that no one will ship to Canada. I can get the trailer hitch setup on Amazon, for example, for 50-70 dollars...but not a one of them will ship north of the border. On the very few places I can find this stuff in Canada, is over 200. I'm trying to find a carry all, too. Ha...good luck.
It's really gd annoying.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #6  
It is not that shippers don't want to ship to Canada, it is that they are often unwilling to deal with absurd customs broker fees, and related shipping delay issues.
I have a summer home in Nova Scotia, and I must bring with me the major things that I expect to need.
Wish you lived closer, I could bring you the hitch.
Are you anywhere near Vancouver?
If near there, you could arrange to have items shipped to a USPS or UPS site at Point Roberts, USA, and bring them into Canada yourself.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question
  • Thread Starter
#7  
It is not that shippers don't want to ship to Canada, it is that they are often unwilling to deal with absurd customs broker fees, and related shipping delay issues.
I have a summer home in Nova Scotia, and I must bring with me the major things that I expect to need.
Wish you lived closer, I could bring you the hitch.
Are you anywhere near Vancouver?
If near there, you could arrange to have items shipped to a USPS or UPS site at Point Roberts, USA, and bring them into Canada yourself.

I'm about 4-5 hours from Van. I'm tempted to set something up over the border here near Oroville, WA - which is probably 2.5 hours south.
It was so much easier when I lived back East...I was 20 minutes from a border store over in Minnesota. Had tons of stuff delivered there. And had tons more snow, too.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #8  
You might also check used farm implement sellers and auctions. I am in the middle of building a weight box using a donated 3PH pallet mover and a job box after not finding anything locally pre-built. Filled 1/2 full of concrete it will weigh ~ 1250# and still leave room for storing things/adding more weight if necessary.

A friend needed help moving two old Ford tractors and some implements upstate to a buyer/reseller he deals with and we both took loaded equipment trailers. While they were discussing prices and such, I was going through three+ acres of used and new implements and discovered the perfect weight box someone had built and it was only $150 U.S., complete with heavy weight wooden, steel reinforced box mounted to a strong 3PH framework. Was probably a 10 cu.' box. Mannnnn, just my luck.

My current project. Will add concrete next week when it warms up and dries out around here.

_EM51599.JPG_EM51651.JPG
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #9  
Just because the top link part of an attachment goes on both sides of the heim joint on the top link doesn't mean you need to. You could easily get the draw bar you talked about and pick up a piece of flat steel. Bend one end and bolt it to the draw bar. On the other end just drill a hole and use a bolt tightened up to the top link. I would use thick steel like 1/4". It's not like a pulling or ground engaging attachment so the forces on the top link will be minimal. You could even use a piece of angle iron, but it would require more cutting.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question
  • Thread Starter
#10  
You might also check used farm implement sellers and auctions. I am in the middle of building a weight box using a donated 3PH pallet mover and a job box after not finding anything locally pre-built. Filled 1/2 full of concrete it will weigh ~ 1250# and still leave room for storing things/adding more weight if necessary.

A friend needed help moving two old Ford tractors and some implements upstate to a buyer/reseller he deals with and we both took loaded equipment trailers. While they were discussing prices and such, I was going through three+ acres of used and new implements and discovered the perfect weight box someone had built and it was only $150 U.S., complete with heavy weight wooden, steel reinforced box mounted to a strong 3PH framework. Was probably a 10 cu.' box. Mannnnn, just my luck.

My current project. Will add concrete next week when it warms up and dries out around here.

View attachment 502273View attachment 502274

Oh, for sure....I'm hitting the local used ads and buyer/sellers forums. Plus, you can find great stuff sitting in farmers' fields, too. Lots of (rusty) gold hidden in the tall grass and shrubbery. There's a guy down the road that, believe it or not, has a older Mercedes S-series sedan being used to block an access road. Its been sitting there for years. I'd love to hear the story of that one.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Just because the top link part of an attachment goes on both sides of the heim joint on the top link doesn't mean you need to. You could easily get the draw bar you talked about and pick up a piece of flat steel. Bend one end and bolt it to the draw bar. On the other end just drill a hole and use a bolt tightened up to the top link. I would use thick steel like 1/4". It's not like a pulling or ground engaging attachment so the forces on the top link will be minimal. You could even use a piece of angle iron, but it would require more cutting.

I saw a picture of a homemade job that someone here had posted a while back. Looks like he used a couple of 3/4 inch eyebolts welded to some rebar, and imbedded vertically in cement. The pin goes through the eyebolt and lift arm. It's not needed as a weight-bearing device...it's just basically to prevent the fore-and-aft wibble wobble of the device, amiright?
 
   / Yet another ballast box question
  • Thread Starter
#13  

That's the one I was talking about! Big, plain old bank vault of a block...and I bet it works just great! I'd do exactly the same, except maybe run an angle in the back corners of the frame - just to purdy her up a bit.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #14  
That's the one I was talking about! Big, plain old bank vault of a block...and I bet it works just great! I'd do exactly the same, except maybe run an angle in the back corners of the frame - just to purdy her up a bit.

That's a LOT of Weight for those Eyelets, the way that weight will bounce around I can see it separating those eyelets. I've seen the cast eyelets break off, just make sure you get the Heaviest eyelet you can.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #15  

Ya know...If you bought or found a heavy duty Carryall, like on the left. Make your concrete form with the outside bottom edge raised, so you could "pick-up" your concrete "Weight". Maybe run an old chain thru the concrete so you can "Chain" the weight to the Carryall. You could buy "pockets" to fasten to side of concrete block so to add removable "StockRacks to carry chainsaw on top.

This way you could use that CarryAll for other stuff. I added a AngleIron to the bottom of my carryall, so I could "chain it" to my loader bucket, worked great for cleaning brush and stacking it on a burn pile. Have you priced Used Forklift Forks, I didn't want the forklift, just forks....lol..
tractor weight box.jpg

The pictures I tried to add were the pics of the Carryall that " SDEF " showed you.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #16  
LMAO....Thats Funny....edited my post cause it didn't show the pics and when I saved it......there they were.....COMPUTERS MAKE OUR LIVES SO MUCH SIMPLER.... NOT
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #17  
I welded the eyelets closed, plus each eyelet is rated at 350 lbs.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #18  
I welded the eyelets closed, plus each eyelet is rated at 350 lbs.

Worse comes to worse, you can always wrap a chain around it. So, how much does that block way?
Eyelets was a good though. I just know that I have enough old Mower Blades that I could cut one end off and the holes would be close to hold a pin.
 
   / Yet another ballast box question #19  
Its weight is around 450 pounds. I made the forum an filled it with 4000 psi fiber, that was leftover from pouring my garage concrete slab.
 
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   / Yet another ballast box question #20  
Its weight is around 450 pounds. I made the forum an filled it with 4000 psi fiber, that was leftover from pouring my garage concrete slab.

Thinking ahead...I like that....lets see...pouring concrete, know we'll have left overs, Why not build that Counter Weight I really need..Good Job...
So you got anti-sway chains to keep from moving? Those Cub/Yanmars are good looking lil' tractors..
 

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