Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing

   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing
  • Thread Starter
#11  
In a lawn mower, Husqvarna or the X series deere is what I would go with.

Yep, that's where I am. The two I listed use the same Kawasaki engine, and both have diff lock. That's a wash.

Is the Deere worth the extra money? It's heavier, but is that an advantage or a disadvantage? The Husky has a fabricated deck vs Deere's stamped one, so it may be easier for me to bang out damage and re-weld, bit the Deere has nifty adjustments on the deck wheels. The Husky has a brush guard. The local Deere dealer keeps lots of parts on hand, the Husky guy is a mom-and-pop who will stock mostly consumables - but I could have a complete spare mower and still spend less than the Deere.

Neither unit is in stock locally, so I can't even sit on either one. It's funny - if the Husky cost $4900, I might be more comfortable buying it. Then again, I'd probably spent the little bit more for the Deere. There are a LOT of Deere mowers around here, and I can't recall seeing a Husky. That bothers me greatly.

I buy, and preferably very few trips to the dealer.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #12  
Yep, that's where I am. The two I listed use the same Kawasaki engine, and both have diff lock. That's a wash.

Is the Deere worth the extra money? It's heavier, but is that an advantage or a disadvantage? The Husky has a fabricated deck vs Deere's stamped one, so it may be easier for me to bang out damage and re-weld, bit the Deere has nifty adjustments on the deck wheels. The Husky has a brush guard. The local Deere dealer keeps lots of parts on hand, the Husky guy is a mom-and-pop who will stock mostly consumables - but I could have a complete spare mower and still spend less than the Deere.

Neither unit is in stock locally, so I can't even sit on either one. It's funny - if the Husky cost $4900, I might be more comfortable buying it. Then again, I'd probably spent the little bit more for the Deere. There are a LOT of Deere mowers around here, and I can't recall seeing a Husky. That bothers me greatly.

I buy, and preferably very few trips to the dealer.

The deere will have the FS Kawasaki and I would assume the Husky will sport the FR Kawasaki, they can be the same HP but the FS is built a tad heavier.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #13  
If it was my decision I would do what I did again and buy the cheaper mower.

I don't care for colors and I'm not using it for anything other than mowing. If I was ploughing a garden or doing ground engagement work I would get the deere but for just mowing grass I would by the husky and not care about babying it.

I also would not worry about the deck, not even the cheaper Ariens mower has had the need for patches and it's been to he'll and back lol, but properly maintenanced.

The deere will prob ride nicer, will be built heavier and may even last longer than the husky but the husky will last plenty long enough just mowing grass and in 10-15 years you can go out and buy a brand new one.

Both will be good for over 1000 hours if taken care of.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #14  
My two mowing machines. The 8N will be upgraded to a new Kubota or Yanmar in the next year or so.

IMG_3545.JPG
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #15  
My two mowing machines. The 8N will be upgraded to a new Kubota or Yanmar in the next year or so.

View attachment 504633

That x590 is one heck of a tractor you got there, pretty penny indeed.

I do miss power steering though, my father and I shared his 445 for about a year when I first bought my house, after I was able to buy my own mower it was a step down for sure but at least I didn't have to hook the trailer up and grab his mower or take his back every week, I didn't miss that part.

He only lives 10 mins away but still, that cut down my total mowing time not having to do that.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I'm really leaning towards the Husqvarna YT48DXLS. It's not a "garden tractor" but I won't be doing any ground engagement with it. I think it will be a good hillside mower.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #17  
Forgive me, but this will be a bit longwinded....

Addressing your questions first:

#1- "Weight - I know heavier is better in tractors, but what about riding mowers on slopes?"

Heavier CAN be better when it comes to lawn mowers, but not always. Unless you have access to a host of information I don't know how to obtain... CG (center of gravity), tire contact patch, track width, etc... there's no way to specifically determine the true slope stability of a mower. That being said, I've found that a little common sense eyeballing of the track width and tire size to be a better guide. Turf tires can't take advantage of the added weight the way a tractor's ag pattern tires can... and a heavier mower may not necessarily have a larger tire or contact patch than a comparable lighter mower. With mowers and turf tires, absolute TRACTION is mostly achieved with contact patch, not weight. On the flip side, wheel weights and high density fluid filled tires are sold every day for a reason... however, it's not the added weight that helps so much as where it's placed. Wheel weights and fluid filled tires move the center of gravity lower, which inherently increases stability on slopes. This is why I say heavier isn't always better. If the heavier mower's weight comes from that deluxe seat, engine, heavier hood/fenders, or anything above the centerline of the drive axle... it's hurting, not helping. I will say this: a heavier and wider deck can make a very noticeable difference in stability on slopes, as it is the lowest weighted part of the machine. There are exceptions to this as well... but I don't think anything in your price range will have a true full-float deck with hydraulic drive, unless you buy a used commercial unit.

#2 "Durability: The Husky has aluminum spindles - are they problems? Their 54" model has cast iron."

Aluminum spindles are designed for mowers that mow flat and well conditioned lawns. I would say that's a no-go. When slopes are a concern, you should always go with a cast iron front assembly, if but for nothing more than the aforementioned center of gravity. You can rest assured that the aluminum spindles are engineered to serve their purpose, especially in a Husky product... but if you read the owner's manual, you'll likely find that your demands will exceed their specifications. Also, the "my wife seems to BREAK something on the L120 EVERY TIME SHE USES IT" should be enough to answer that question. However, if that lowly L120 has lasted you 10yrs, the uprated Husky will likely have a comparable service life.

Now that I've answered your questions, I have a couple.

#1- why "gasoline only"?

#2- why 2wd with a locking diff, presumably ruling out a 4wd unit?

#3- have you ever tried a front mount mower?

#4- how many acres will you be maintaining with this mower?

#5- how long does it currently take you to mow?

#5- are you absolutely set on buying new?... why? (?warranty?)

I have a couple suggestions, but I'd rather fill in some gaps first.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Now that I've answered your questions, I have a couple. I have a couple suggestions, but I'd rather fill in some gaps first.

#1- why "gasoline only"? SWMBO hates all diesel smell - and she's the main operator.

#2- why 2wd with a locking diff, presumably ruling out a 4wd unit? Because the L120 will climb the areas we want to use it on - barely - with her on it. It runs out of transmission - K46, old and tired. Worse once warmed up. Useless with me on it on a grade. I have a 34hp 4x4 CUT for the really tough stuff.

#3- have you ever tried a front mount mower? No.

#4- how many acres will you be maintaining with this mower? 1-1.5, mostly in spots too tight for my tractor.

#5- how long does it currently take you to mow? Several hours with a weedeater.

#5- are you absolutely set on buying new?... why? (?warranty?) All I see on the used market is crapped-out box-store MTDs and Ag tractors. Same reason I went new on my Kioti.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing #19  
My robust riding mower is a B7200. My F2560 is my preferred mower, but the B7200 is the go to machine for grunt work. No riding mower will take the abuse this thing takes and begs for more. I wouldn't be so quick to rule out no 3 point hitch. And neither of those machines meet your criteria because they're both diesel. I mow yards somewhat commercial so I mow a lot. Today I got the F2560 stuck in a muddy ditch. Had I taken the B7200 the ditch would be mowed and the mower wouldn't be stuck.
 
   / Lawn tractors, yard tractors, garden tractors, SCUTS, and mowing
  • Thread Starter
#20  
My robust riding mower is a B7200. My F2560 is my preferred mower, but the B7200 is the go to machine for grunt work. No riding mower will take the abuse this thing takes and begs for more. I wouldn't be so quick to rule out no 3 point hitch. And neither of those machines meet your criteria because they're both diesel. I mow yards somewhat commercial so I mow a lot. Today I got the F2560 stuck in a muddy ditch. Had I taken the B7200 the ditch would be mowed and the mower wouldn't be stuck.

If she would tolerate a diesel tractor, I'd buy her a BX-25 - but she won't, and that's the end of that.
 

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