3-Point Hitch MF 1250 - lower lift arms are 27" eye to eye, need to gain about 5"

[artcarneyagr]

For whatever reason my lift arms are on the short side at 27" eye to eye, I'm assuming they came stock as I bought the tractor used with only 170 hours on it and the previous owner only used it to run a 5 ft bush hog.

Trying to find some longer ones that would fit that's around 32" but can't find any that say that they are compatible with my 1250.

My 2-bottom plow is a bit too close to my PTO shield and with it fully raised it's only a few inches off the ground, a little bit longer arms would make all the difference in the world.

 

[Xfaxman]

Do a search for tractor salvage yard in your area. Take one of your arms with you, to find a longer one that will fit.

Or take yours to a welding shop and have it lengthened.

Does it look like this one? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...BAXoEt9xl7aYhnWEWGYNZRNcRNpU76xKw4aApxP8P8HAQ

 

[artcarneyagr]

That looks like it might work, I think I would have to drill an extra hole in it which would not be fun.

 

[deanocraft]

Would a quick hitch help?

 

[artcarneyagr]

I thought about adding the Pat's quick hitch but with the way you set up a plow with dropping one arm a good bit lower than the other I wasn't sure if I'd have issues or not.

Pat's is about $180 whereas a different pair of lower lift arms would be a bit less.


I've located a tractor salvage yard not too far away, I may do like Xfaxman said and take one of the one's I have and try to find a match that's a little longer.

 

[redman135]

On the lower link, which hole is the lift link connected to? If it is the inner most of the 3 middle holes then shifting the lift link to the outer most hole will gain you some extra height.

 

[ovrszd]

Actually to gain height move to the hole closest to tractor. The hole farthest from tractor gains lift weight capacity.

Which brings me to my second point. Going from a 27" to 32" arm is going to cost you considerable weight lifting capacity. All dependent of course on the location of the lift link hole.

 

[carolinarider]

That looks like it might work, I think I would have to drill an extra hole in it which would not be fun.

I would be very interested in your solution. I have a similar problem with some Dirt Dog accessories I purchased, ground clearance. I considered longer arms but stopped my search and just sort of made do. I would rather resolve the issue long term.

 

[Xfaxman]

Pictures of the 3 point linkage on a MF 1250 would help this thread a lot.

 

[Leejohn]

Try here West Kentucky Tractor Parts

 

[carolinarider]

Pictures of the 3 point linkage on a MF 1250 would help this thread a lot.

I will post a picture later today.

 

[carolinarider]

I will post a picture later today.

 

[carolinarider]

The Dirt Dog lay off plow Dirt Dog Manufacturing is just a few inches above the ground. I could move the links out one more position and get it a few inches higher but that would not help with the sub spoiler which, with the current linkage, is at ground level.

Dirt Dog Manufacturing

 

[Xfaxman]

Good pictures, thanks. :thumbsup:

The Dirt Dog lay off plow Dirt Dog Manufacturing is just a few inches above the ground. I could move the links out one more position and get it a few inches higher but that would not help with the sub spoiler which, with the current linkage, is at ground level.
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As Richard said in post # 7:

Actually to gain height move to the hole closest to tractor. The hole farthest from tractor gains lift weight capacity.
----------------.

 

[redman135]

I stand corrected.

 

[carolinarider]

Ok. I read the information on the image and then tried to work it out mentally, (some say thats a challenge for me).

The lifting arms are a fixed length. The link to the arm being lifted is a fixed length. So, with the actual arm doing the lifting at maximum height (rotation upwards) and the link from that arm a fixed length, moving the link position (i.e. the point where the connection arm is attached to the arm that it attached to the device/equipment) inward toward the tractor would seem to force the arm lower. This seems to be because the angle is now less between the hydraulic lifting arm and the actual arm being lifted.

Conversely, if I move the connection point outward on the arm connected to the device/equipment, the angel opens up and the arm connected to the device has to be moved upward to make the new connection.

Taken to the extreme, it would seem if the connecting link (the link between the actual hydraulic lift and the arm being lifted was placed at a horizontal angle, the the arm connected to the equipment would be almost vertical to make the new connection.

Could it be possible that the drawing is in error? Or maybe the drawing is implying just a change in lifting force and not discussing the change in lifting height?

I do understand that moving the connection out might gain more lifting force also (although the rational for that also escapes me). The picture also seems to imply that both arms connecting the hydraulics to the arms being lifted are adjustable. On my tractor only the right hand connect is adjustable. If both were adjustable it might give me the ability to lift the one device high enough but not the sub soiler.

 

[boggen]

many times, the links going down to the lower lift arms. 1 link will just be a solid metal piece, while the other one being adjustable, examlle a turn buckle.

you can replace the solid metal piece with another turn buckle. and/or swap the 2 links around if that is what works out.

you can also replace the lower lift links with longer ones.

NOTE: telescopic lower lift arms. are generally only designed to pull out to initially hook up to equipment. and then you reverse tractor into equipment to lock the lower lift arms. with that said, there might be a couple telescopic lift arms that allow you to adjust and pin the lower lift arms at a certain length.

pats easy hitch can be rather nice. just simply hooking up to 3pt hitch equipment.

to note it... what ever you end up doing for the plow. may result in dealing with needing a new PTO shaft for the rotatory mower (bush hog) if you do not want to remove a bunch of stuff (long lower lift arms, pats easy hitch, or some other quick attach on 3pt hitch) and put the old stuff back on just for the rotatory mower. to note it, they do make a PTO shaft extension. might be cheaper on wallet vs new pto shaft if that is even needed.

darn if you do, darn if you do not.

=================
longer lift arms, may result in needing new sway bars/chains (bars on side of the lower lift arms)
along with i would suggest getting some check chains installed as well.

the swap bar/chain and check chains help protect the 3pt hitch and your rear wheels. and keep the implement out of your rear wheels, at same help keep the lower lift arms from hopefully not buckling and bending when you go into a slight turn and/or backing up with implement when it is on the ground.

lots of little things, but add up into the grand scheme of things

 

[deanocraft]

I am thinking Carolinarider may be correct, but I am not sure. You could raise the arms and measure the height and then change them to the other hole and remeasure. Without an implement, you could change just one arm for the answer!

 

[artcarneyagr]

I need the implement to sit farther back from the tractor more than anything. The front coulter on my plow is right up under my PTO shield, if I had any additional lift with the existing arms it would be banging away on the PTO shield. I need the longer arms to get the implement back farther away from the PTO area.

If you look at carolinarider's pictures you can see his bushhog is really close to the rear tires, not too big of a deal for a bushhog but when you go to moving dirt with a boxblade it will pile dirt up to the wheel.

 

[triptester]

These should fit.
Lift Arm | 32" | Category 1 |