5065e Start failure, blown 30 amp ACC fuse

[Rmd8136]

My 2012 5065e started and ran fine today doing some plowing and loader work for about an hour. Turned it off to broadcast some millet seed and intended on disking it in. When I turned key to start, got nothing but red dash lights on bottom right of cluster (battery and charging lights). With jumper cables hooked up, got rattling in starter, sounded like starter solenoid. I noticed the 30 amp ACC fuse blown. Swapped out 30 amp light fuse with ACC fuse and still just rattling starter solenoid. Any idea what blew fuse and why start?

 

[texasranger556]

I'd pull battery terminals and ground strap off and clean everything really well. I had a similar situation on a 50 HP tractor. Jumping it would just clatter the solenoid. After cleaning the battery terminals it didn't help, turned out the ground cable under the battery was the issue. Cleaning and reinstalling it did the trick.

 

[Rmd8136]

Did you replace the 30 amp fuse after cleaning the ground?

 

[Tx Jim]

Sounds as if cold start sensor has shorted out. This sensor has a long history of failure since the mid 90's. I think JD must enjoy the $$$$$$ this failure generates. Disconnect sensor,install good fuse & engine should start. RE503242 Temperature Switch ADD 49.58 USD

 

[MF283]

Agree with all of the above, went through that with my 5303, clean connections & spray the red battery stuff on them before tightening them down.

Ronnie

 

[Rmd8136]

Tx Jim, if the sensor has shorted out will the coolant temp gauge register normal? Should not I would think either pegged high or Low? I know while driving tractor the gauge was indicating normal temp. You are suggesting if shorted when I turned the start key?

Is there a way to confirm it shorted by measuring voltage with key on (engine not started). The reason I am asking is about a year ago I had a problem with starting and same fuse had burned and turned out to be defective starter. There was a JD Product Improvement Program related to the Bosch starters. After replacing the starter, replacing the fuse and cleaning battery and frame ground connections, it ran fine for a year. My temp gauge has been reading fine for a year. That means the last failure was not the temp sensor shorting, correct? The dealer that swapped out my starter part (I installed it) said the defective starter caused the 30 amp fuse to fail?

I hope it is what you are saying. I guess you already answered my question; if I just disconnect the sensor electrical connection and it starts, that confirms what you are saying? While running , what will the coolant temp gauge read with it disconnected?

 

[Rmd8136]

After reading other posts, looks like the gauges work fine but the sensor operates the "cold start advance" function.

if shorting causes the 30 amp fuse to blow, how does that affect the starter? Does it prevent adequate voltage from actuating the starter solenoid? And that is why it rattles (tapping noise) when you turn the key?

 

[Tx Jim]

After reading other posts, looks like the gauges work fine but the sensor operates the "cold start advance" function.

if shorting causes the 30 amp fuse to blow, how does that affect the starter? Does it prevent adequate voltage from actuating the starter solenoid? And that is why it rattles (tapping noise) when you turn the key?

My understanding is RE503242 has no affect/control of temp gauge as temp gauge is controlled by another sensor located in cyl head.

 

[Plantation Paul]

First of all, make sure you have a good battery... Have it load checked. Then good connections from the bat to the starter. If you have that, you should be able to jump it(like in the old days with a screw driver) with a remote switch. If it doesn't work then, pull the starter and make it run with jumper cables..........

 

[Rmd8136]

First of all, make sure you have a good battery... Have it load checked. Then good connections from the bat to the starter. If you have that, you should be able to jump it(like in the old days with a screw driver) with a remote switch. If it doesn't work then, pull the starter and make it run with jumper cables..........

I had my battery tested as " good" and charged it with charger. Installed it in tractor but replaced 30 amp ACC fuse before battery. I unplugged the temp sensor. Tried to start tractor and got 1 click from switch, not starter. Got jumper cables out and connected to tractor. Decided to measure voltage (with digital volt meter) across other end of cables and got 1-2 volts! My positive terminal was arcing if I moved it by hand. I disconnected ground and tightened positive terminal very tight. Those factory lugs are not meant for repeated removal. Anyway that did it! I measure the same voltage across the other end of cables (12.85 Volts) as the battery terminals. Decided to not hook jumper cables to truck. Tractor cranked right up. The bad news is whenever I install a new 30 amp fuse in the ACC fuse block location, it smokes. Tractor on or off, key in or out. The tractor cranks fine with temp sensor plugged in or out! So what I concluded is the 30 amp fuse failure has probably been there since tractor new. If the 30 amp fuse smokes with temp sensor open and tractor off there must be a dead short in the 7 pin connector. I looked at the 7 pin connector and 5 of 7 pins are loose . They wobble if you touch with finger.