Bent my box blade mount, shorter top link?

[Sysop]

I don't have welder, it's on my list. Not sure what shop would charge to fix a $600 box blade.


Thoughts on shorter top link? Not sure if the angles would right.

If you have a grinder with cut off wheel and such and can have everything prepped, I don't see any welding bill costing more than $100. Lots of small shops around here would do that in a half hour and charge you $30. Show up just before lunch with a stack of pizzas or just before quitting time with a case or two of beer and the locals here would do it for free.

As far as a shorter top link, all that will do is raise the rear of the box blade and change the angle it works at. Generally you shorten it for a more aggressive cut when moving forward. I don't think a shorter top link would have prevented this at all. Less ground speed may have.

 

[clevalley]

Mmm,
If you are able to weld and have a plasma cutter /grinder...
I would cut off the top mangled pieces and then buy some heavier gauge steel , cut out new panels and after cleanup of the base metal on the box blade weld in the upper supports and maybe add some extra bracing if needed.

If you have a grinder with cut off wheel and such and can have everything prepped, I don't see any welding bill costing more than $100. Lots of small shops around here would do that in a half hour and charge you $30. Show up just before lunch with a stack of pizzas or just before quitting time with a case or two of beer and the locals here would do it for free.

As far as a shorter top link, all that will do is raise the rear of the box blade and change the angle it works at. Generally you shorten it for a more aggressive cut when moving forward. I don't think a shorter top link would have prevented this at all. Less ground speed may have.

If you can't cut the bent plate off and re-weld new braces then I would agree with the other two gents above. I would contact some local welding shops and send them the pictures to get an estimate... should not cost anymore than $200 max.

 

[Sysop]

Maybe keep bolted braces, and treat as shear pin.

I did leave all the bolted joints bolted. All bolts are grade 8 and none bent or sheared when I damaged mine. The uprights on mine can still bend as they did before, and the parts can still be replaced with factory parts and processes. My bracing primarily protects the parts of the box that are welded structural parts of the box itself. The three point uprights and supports are all still bolted on factory parts.

 

[Xfaxman]

No top link is fine. I will double check, but tractor seems ok.

You could try a bottle jack and a chain to push it back to usable shape.

 

[Zerk]

You could try a bottle jack and a chain to push it back to usable shape.

Actually was tempted to pull it on the stum, or tie it to tree.

If you have a grinder with cut off wheel and such and can have everything prepped, I don't see any welding bill costing more than $100. Lots of small shops around here would do that in a half hour and charge you $30. Show up just before lunch with a stack of pizzas or just before quitting time with a case or two of beer and the locals here would do it for free.

As far as a shorter top link, all that will do is raise the rear of the box blade and change the angle it works at. Generally you shorten it for a more aggressive cut when moving forward. I don't think a shorter top link would have prevented this at all. Less ground speed may have.

I don't think shorter link would have helped. What I am think is it may work now to make this useable. The arms are bent, making them shorter, and to close. How that will effect side angles is a question.

I do have grinder and could cut it off, to save money.

 

[Deere Dude]

Actually was tempted to pull it on the stum, or tie it to tree.

I don't think shorter link would have helped. What I am think is it may work now to make this useable. The arms are bent, making them shorter, and to close. How that will effect side angles is a question.

I do have grinder and could cut it off, to save money.

I would take a grinder with cut-off wheels and cut the damaged parts off, carefully and neatly.

I would find someone with a log splitter and rig something up to straighten out all the pieces. The pieces should all get pretty close to normal.

Then weld it all back on along with some more supporting members.

 

[dieselcrawler]

With a 10 ton bottle jack, you might push it back to closer to normal... Base of bottle Jack on ripper cross member, top on top link pin. If you had torches to heat the bent areas, it might un-bend with the force of the bottle Jack applied.

 

[jimmysisson]

If I was the weldor to fix that, I'd want to see the damaged pieces. I.e. Don't cut them off. Weldor may have different approach.
Jim

 

[Zerk]

Good point. They are going to need something to go by.

If I can find top link local or decent price, going to try. That would raise it higher. Though side arms still long, so may not work. But might do so.e rough leveling and scraping.

 

[Zerk]

Good point. They are going to need something to go by.

If I can find top link local or decent price, going to try. That would raise it higher. Though side arms still long, so may not work. But might do so.e rough leveling and scraping.