Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
Welcome!
10-15% slope is not a small slope. If fact many tractor manuals specify no more that 10% as the MAX slope to be using a tractor on period. And, while on the subject of slopes always keep the tractor in a gear, NEVER in neutral while going up or down any hill/slope. Which way to approach a slope is also debated here on TBN almost constantly. And don't go across a slope of any amount of grade to it, because holes, bumps, rocks etc. can and will change the balance characteristics of your tractor, and once you pass the tipping point there is usually no recovery. And it can/will happen faster than you can blink under the right conditions.
So seat belt on, ROPS fully upright, in a gear, and using steadily applied braking, and 4wd too. Hydrostatic transmissions have wet brakes in the actual transmission and unless you're in 4wd if you lose control of your descent speed you will have NO braking action unless you are in a range, ( L, M, H) or a gear for a manual transmission. Keeping you FEL bucket low whenever moving the tractor is essential too, as well as serious counterweight/ballast on the rear end/3PH area.
If towing, only use the drawbar attached to the bellhousing area of the rear end. Anywhere else is above the COG and can result in a backwards rollover/back.
You're getting 10-12" off the ground with one rear wheel is on your way to rolling it over sideways. It's NOT an ATV, and is way more dangerous than what you're used to with them.
You need to change what you're doing and how you do it immediately, or you'll be in deep ***** or dead sooner than later. Rollover deaths are the leading cause of fatalities on tractors across the board, regardless of tractor size.
So get ballast, and fill your rear tires first before doing any more work. It surprises me that your selling dealer didn't recommend filling the tires to begin with; I know mine did, and I probably knew less about tractors than you did when you got yours.
As far as getting different rims or adding wheel weights Kioti's don't go that route much from what I've seen.
Mostly they either have AG or industrial tires and the wheel spread is about what it is from the factory.
Rear weight, like a BB or backhoe is pretty common, but some build ballast boxes and fill with rocks, concrete, etc.
Take it slow for many hours after you get the tires filled and rear ballast at the 3PH, and use the lowest range or gear possible when doing any slope/grade work. Common sense is helpful too, so think about what you're trying to do and access if it's safe. Carry a cell phone or 2 way radio with you and let people know where you're going to be if any kind of risk might present itself when working alone.
There is a LOT to learn so take it easy and get to know your tractor, and come back here and read everything when you're not on the tractor, and ask lots of questions- that's how I learned most all of what I know about tractors; right here, hour after hour from those more experienced than me. And there are a TON of people with way more than I know about tractors on here everyday.:thumbsup:
10-15% slope is not a small slope. If fact many tractor manuals specify no more that 10% as the MAX slope to be using a tractor on period. And, while on the subject of slopes always keep the tractor in a gear, NEVER in neutral while going up or down any hill/slope. Which way to approach a slope is also debated here on TBN almost constantly. And don't go across a slope of any amount of grade to it, because holes, bumps, rocks etc. can and will change the balance characteristics of your tractor, and once you pass the tipping point there is usually no recovery. And it can/will happen faster than you can blink under the right conditions.
So seat belt on, ROPS fully upright, in a gear, and using steadily applied braking, and 4wd too. Hydrostatic transmissions have wet brakes in the actual transmission and unless you're in 4wd if you lose control of your descent speed you will have NO braking action unless you are in a range, ( L, M, H) or a gear for a manual transmission. Keeping you FEL bucket low whenever moving the tractor is essential too, as well as serious counterweight/ballast on the rear end/3PH area.
If towing, only use the drawbar attached to the bellhousing area of the rear end. Anywhere else is above the COG and can result in a backwards rollover/back.
You're getting 10-12" off the ground with one rear wheel is on your way to rolling it over sideways. It's NOT an ATV, and is way more dangerous than what you're used to with them.
You need to change what you're doing and how you do it immediately, or you'll be in deep ***** or dead sooner than later. Rollover deaths are the leading cause of fatalities on tractors across the board, regardless of tractor size.
So get ballast, and fill your rear tires first before doing any more work. It surprises me that your selling dealer didn't recommend filling the tires to begin with; I know mine did, and I probably knew less about tractors than you did when you got yours.
As far as getting different rims or adding wheel weights Kioti's don't go that route much from what I've seen.
Mostly they either have AG or industrial tires and the wheel spread is about what it is from the factory.
Rear weight, like a BB or backhoe is pretty common, but some build ballast boxes and fill with rocks, concrete, etc.
Take it slow for many hours after you get the tires filled and rear ballast at the 3PH, and use the lowest range or gear possible when doing any slope/grade work. Common sense is helpful too, so think about what you're trying to do and access if it's safe. Carry a cell phone or 2 way radio with you and let people know where you're going to be if any kind of risk might present itself when working alone.
There is a LOT to learn so take it easy and get to know your tractor, and come back here and read everything when you're not on the tractor, and ask lots of questions- that's how I learned most all of what I know about tractors; right here, hour after hour from those more experienced than me. And there are a TON of people with way more than I know about tractors on here everyday.:thumbsup:
