Attachments for creating food plots.

[BufordBoone]

I've created a few food plots (clover, sunflowers, etc) with limited success.

I have a JD 2355 and a Kubota L5740

Basic advice I've received was:

1 - Mow the grass
2 - Poison (Roundup, etc) the grass
3 - Turn the ground up - I've used a large, heavy disc. Always seems to take 5-10 passes.
4 - Have a soil sample analyzed.
5 - Amend the soil as per report.
6 - Spread the seed - I have a spreader that I pull behind an ATV
7 - Cover up the seed - I was told "Just drag something over the field. Fence, Cedar pole, large pallet, don't matter". I've used a large, heavy pallet.

My problem areas:

Turning the ground. I have a 3-bottom plow (never used) should I plow the ground before running the disc?

Would it be better to just get a tiller?

Covering the seed - My plots don't seem to grow uniformly. For example, I created 3 strips of sunflowers. None of the strips have plants in the entire strip. Also, the areas that do have plants are not aligned. I suspect a planting issue. I'm not real sold on the "just drag something over it".

What additional implements , if any, would you recommend for making a food plot?

Cultipacker? - My reading appears to indicate it just breaks soil up. i have a friend that uses his after seeding.

Seeder?

No-Till Seeder?

Spring cultivator?

Spike tooth harrow?

Chain harrow?

I suspect there is a bit of overlap.

I don't mind getting another implement but I'd rather have as few as necessary.

Food plots are a hobby, after all. Besides, hogs will tear them up each year.

I'd love to hear what works for you.

Thanks.

 

[Soldier415]

Following

 

[Apsterbobed]

I'm just getting into food plots as well, and I think the people giving you advice are the same that I have talked to! I'm still clearing areas so I can't say to planting but I know a few people who do as you with mixed results and one guy who treats it like he is farming white tail. He goes all out plow, disk, 2 crops a year, and his whole family will get deer of his plots every year.

 

[Steave]

I just use the standard old farm implements: Turn Plow, have a 2 disc plow and a 2 moldboard plow the 2 disc plow is easier for me to use. Then disc harrow after speading fertilizer with a 3 pt spreader. Then planting seeds either with the 3 pt spreader or a planter according to what I'm planting. Then run the cultipacker to firm the seeds for good contact with the soil and to help with erosion.

If I'm breaking ground that hasn't been worked in several years I run a subsoiler about 12" deep just to help loosen. Makes it easier to turn. On plots I plant yearly sometimes a disc harrow is all that is needed to break up the ground but I get better results if I turn it. Spring turning is only 4-5" deep and if I turn in the fall (rare) it's deep as the plow will go.

Sunflowers around my place are gobbled up after they reach about 4-5" out of the ground. Crows, red birds, deer and whatever won't let them grow. There are some large fields growing around here but I'm not going to plant several acres just to have some.

 

[Areeves08]

If things aren't working well for you, it might be time to try another method. Disturbing the soil is avoided by most modern farmers, so it makes sense for plotters too. Check this out for an alternative...
The Throw n’ Mow Method | Page 2 | All Things Habitat - Lets talk.....

Another option if they're small plots is a harley rake and cultipacker. The seed bed created by the Harley Rake is 2nd to none, spread seed, pack and pray for rain.

 

[jeff9366]

I've created a few food plots (clover, sunflowers, etc) with limited success.
Clover and many grass seeds, which are small, will not germinate without strong sunlight. If you bury small seeds they will not germinate. Use a CULTIPACKER to roll in all seeds, large and small.

Most Clover is perennial, meaning once a Clover stand is well started it should go on for years without being re-seeded. Therefore do not plant perennial Clover nor other perennial food plot seeds where you plant annual food plot seeds.



Basic advice I received was:

1 - Mow the grass
2 - Poison (Roundup, etc) the grass
3 - Turn the ground up - I've used a large, heavy disc. Always seems to take 5-10 passes.
4 - Have a soil sample analyzed.
5 - Amend the soil as per report.
6 - Spread the seed - I have a spreader that I pull behind an ATV
7 - Cover up the seed - I was told "Just drag something over the field. Fence, Cedar pole, large pallet, don't matter". I've used a large, heavy pallet.

My problem areas:

Turning the ground. I have a 3-bottom plow (never used) should I plow the ground before running the disc?
No. Food Plot seeds are strong germinators. If you have adjusted your Disc to give a reasonably smooth bed behind the implement you will be fine.

LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=


Would it be better to just get a tiller? No.

Covering the seed - My plots don't seem to grow uniformly. For example, I created 3 strips of sunflowers. None of the strips have plants in the entire strip. Also, the areas that do have plants are not aligned. I suspect a planting issue. I'm not sold on the "just drag something over it".

What additional implements , if any, would you recommend for making a food plot?

Cultipacker? i have a friend that uses his after seeding.
YES.

Seeder? No.

No-Till Seeder? No.

Spring cultivator? No.

Spike tooth harrow? No.

Chain harrow? No.

I don't mind getting another implement but I'd rather have as few as necessary.

Food plots are a hobby.


Questions for you:

1) What about soil moisture after seeding? Seed will not germinate or germinate irregularly if not maintained continually moist after being sown. A Culitpacker adds a short grace period.

2) How many hours of sun do your plots receive? Food plots are food crops. Most need 90% or more full sun in order to look like the pictures used in seed marketing.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I use a chisel plow before discing, otherwise the disc would never break up the soil.

I drag an old spike tooth harrow to smooth the ground and then again to cover up the seed. A chain harrow would work better. I have an idea to build something like a chain harrow that I think will work better than the spike tooth harrow but will be easier to carry than either the spike tooth harrow or a chain harrow. A cultipacker is a great idea, the problem I have is that I don't think they would work very well in my soil that isn't smooth and has a good number of rocks. It seems like you'd need a pretty smooth seed bed without rocks for them to really be effective. But covering the seed isn't much of an issue if you get a good rain right after planting.

If you have the funds, get a tiller and a seeder. Something like the Firmiseeder (Firminator without the disc) would be nice. That's the only seeder I know of designed specifically for food plot seed mixtures. I've kind of wondered if the Garber seeder would work well, it looks kind of like the old EZEE flow tow behind fertilizer spreaders.

 

[BufordBoone]

Most Clover is perennial, meaning once a Clover stand is well started it should go on for years without being re-seeded. Therefore do not plant perennial Clover nor other perennial food plot seeds where you plant annual food plot seeds.



Questions for you:

1) What about soil moisture after seeding? Seed will not germinate or germinate irregularly if not maintained continually moist after being sown. A Culitpacker adds a short grace period.

2) How many hours of sun do your plots receive? Food plots are food crops. Most need 90% or more full sun in order to look like the pictures used in seed marketing.[/QUOTE]

I try to time my planting to take advantage of moisture. For example, with last year's drought, I didnt' plant. The sunflowers I planted this year were put in specifically based on weather predictions (that, believe it or not, were correct).

Most of my plots are in very open fields. I have one in the woods but they all get a lot of sun.

 

[BufordBoone]

I just use the standard old farm implements: Turn Plow, have a 2 disc plow and a 2 moldboard plow the 2 disc plow is easier for me to use. Then disc harrow after speading fertilizer with a 3 pt spreader. Then planting seeds either with the 3 pt spreader or a planter according to what I'm planting. Then run the cultipacker to firm the seeds for good contact with the soil and to help with erosion.

If I'm breaking ground that hasn't been worked in several years I run a subsoiler about 12" deep just to help loosen. Makes it easier to turn. On plots I plant yearly sometimes a disc harrow is all that is needed to break up the ground but I get better results if I turn it. Spring turning is only 4-5" deep and if I turn in the fall (rare) it's deep as the plow will go.

Is there a difference between a "disc plow" and a "disc harrow" or is that just two terms for the same implement?

 

[jeff9366]

A Disc Harrow is a SECONDARY TILLAGE implement. A Disc Harrow mixes and smooths soil. Output after second pass with the implement should be a fairly smooth seed bed.

A Disc Plow is a PRIMARY TILLAGE implement. A Disc Plow turns soil, but does not mix it. Looks like one or two pans from an Offset Disc. It is a type of plow. Output after implement is generally rough.

LINK: TDP2 Series 2 & 3 Blade Disc Plows | Tufline

 

[Catoosa]

Is there a difference between a "disc plow" and a "disc harrow" or is that just two terms for the same implement?

Two completely different tools, disk plow is a plow that turns the sod, disk harrow is commonly referred to as just disk which breaks up plowed sod.

I put in an acre of sunflowers this year, first time I have ever done anything on that scale. I plowed it with a moldboard over the winter to try to hide the sod. My plowing expertise left quite a bit of grass in clumps. I went over the plowed ground with a tiller set pretty shallow, don't have a disk then leveled it as best I could with a landscape rake. Let it sit for a couple months to kill the grass clumps then raked it again. This made it somewhat plantable but still had a few grass clumps to deal with.

Spring rains kept me from doing much more when I got a break ran the tiller over it then back with the landscape rake. Then the weeds started sprouting from rain and sun. Sprayed the whole thing with roundup to kill the new weeds, week later went over it again with the landscape rake. At this point pretty much had barren dirt that was smooth and level.

Used a John Deere 247 planter to plant half of it with large bought seeds, used a 3 point spreader to plant the other half with black oil bird feed seeds. This was last Saturday and when I looked at it this morning I saw a few sunflowers poking their little heads up. I didn't do the soil sample and fertilize routine figured I would see how well they grow first. Next years crop and method will be determined by how well it does this year.

 

[jeff9366]

I plowed a food plot this year, we used to just till it, but it was time to really turn it over. After that, I plowed it one more time and than used 3pt tiller to smooth it over, it worked reasonably well, but it is far from smooth, there are lower and higher areas in the field.

For future reference, what is the recommended procedure. Say I plow it - we have single 14" plow - and now what? Disc it? Drag it with harrows?

This food plot is more like a small farm field, not your typical clearance in the forest.

Plow just once, then repeat only once every eight years.

Roto-till annually Fall or Spring. Overworking the soil is not good.

(PTO powered Roto-tillers and Disc Harrows are two different forms of soil mixing tillers.)

((After roto-tilling, if you want to redistribute soil to smooth, a Chain Harrow is good, as is a Landscape Rake with gauge wheels.)) (( A framed Chain Harrow, with 1/2" diameter mat wire is the berries.))

WINGFIELD CHAIN HARROWS: 7' 2" 3pt MaxiLift Harrow

Sow seed. Pack with a heavy Cultipacker, which should smash the clods as it rolls in the seed.

Most food plot mixes have perennial Clover and other very small seeds which require direct sun to germinate. If you drag, few of the small seeds will germinate.

Dragging is fine for medium and large seeds.

The key is keeping the seeds CONTINUALLY moist until they are established as plants.

One of these cheap China produced sprinklers, set on top of a 10' T-post and allowed to turn in a full circle, will moisten a lot of seed. T post sprinkler | eBay

Tractor Supply Company sells these T-post sprinklers for $14.00 plus tax.

 

[BufordBoone]

And, the previous answers are why I keep asking things here.

Now I know I have a large disc harrow.

Thanks, to all.

 

[Foodplot]

Good day to you. Why do you want a foodplot? What species are you trying to attract? Creating quail habitat is different from songbird habitat from butterfly habitat from bait stations for deer. In the SE, deer don't need food, there is more than enough to support current artificially high populations of the animals. If your goal is to attract deer reliably to an area near a shooting stand, then I would suggest following agricultural suggestions from your local extension agent. Alabama has a large extension system (ACES) run by AAMU and AU. They can suggest the best local approach to growing crop plants in your soils. Alabama Department of Conservation & Natural Resources likely has private lands biologists who are useful sources of local knowledge and may have loaner seed drills if you want to create more natural habitat to support a variety of animal species. I always encourage landowners to use their local extension agents, after all, your taxes pay their salaries! They can help you develop an integrated habitat management plan. This response may be a bit tangential to your original question, but really is usually the most effective approach. If you plant native species of forage plants, you may even be able to get the state to cost share. Best of luck.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Lightly dragging in seed and then rolling a roller or cultipacker works good for clover size seed if you get some rain or have good moisture, but for rye , millet, sunflowers, peas, etc, cut it in with you're harrow and fix you a good drag out of railroad iron or something of the such to level behind your harrow and don't worry about it, don't buy into all that just barely scratching it in, put your seed where it is moist and can germinate, just look anytime after you plant something and see where your seed comes up first, it will always be in you're tractor tracks where you left the field and pushed the seed down into the moisture. Charlie.

 

[thorholt]

I have used all the above ways of doing plots, I have had the best success using a tiller, harrow it and plant it. For corn and beans I use a 4 row planter, for rye and clovers I broadcast the seed then drag the harrow over it again with a atv to limit compaction. My problem with plowing etc. is that I cannot always get out to the plots at the right times due to weather or other issues, the tiller is usually one pass and plant it the same day, I usually get roundup ready seed for the row crops and 2-4D for grasses for easy weed control.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

We have a "How to Garden" playlist on our YouTube channel that may help you out. Food plots and gardens require similar prep depending on the crop you'll be growing.
Many food plot crops are broadcasted rather than being planted in a row like a garden, so disregard the garden bedder and cultivation videos.

As mentioned by others, the cultipacker is really icing on the cake that will really boost seed germination and create beautiful results!
Travis

 

[wngsprd]

I agree that a cultipacker would be a key tool for seed germination. Since they are wicked expensive, and I can't seem to find a suitable used one, and since I recently bought a Wicked Grapple with my tractor implement budget, I've been using the method I learned from a farmer friend that he does on food plots...repeatedly driving over the seedbed in parallel tracks until I've packed the seed in all areas.

Having wide R4 tires helps, and using a fast speed helps keep it from getting too tedious. When he first told me to do this I thought he was crazy, but it does work, and my driving and turning skills are NASCAR level now .

This is especially good for long narrow plots, and for small seeds like clover, and will work for buckwheat, and some of the deer mixes. I've found that using my drag is still the best method for sunflowers, and bigger plots.

For your uneven germination problem, try hand spreading the seed. I used to use the 3pt spreader for the bigger seed...but decided to try the hand spreader that I used for clover and other expensive small seeds. I learned:
- I can walk an acre or more and spread about as fast as I can drive back to the barn, swap the tiller for the 3 pt spreader and get back. So I just put the seed bags and hand spreader in the bucket, and park next to the plot after I till. I'll also take a 5 gallon bucket and pour seed in to put on the opposite end of the plot for refills as I walk.
- I can plant a plot with half the seed, saving money (to apply toward that cultipacker!)
- I can arrive at a more precise application of seed, and a more even distribution especially on seed mixes, where the small seeds sometimes would settle in the 3 pt spreader
- I get a great amount of walking exercise, and have the opportunity to more closely inspect my soil as I walk, also picking up shotgun wads in the dove plot, and occasional rocks...no arrow heads yet.

Good luck with your plots.

 

[Apsterbobed]

It's good to hear I'm not the only one who uses the tires to pack stuff down! When I'm fixing / building trails, I will spread a bucket of dirt then drive on it using the tires to pack it down. It's not the fastest or most effective way to compact dirt but I usually go get another bucket of dirt to make the small front tires more effective!

 

[BufordBoone]

All your help tells me I need a cultipacker. (edited cause I typed cultivator the first time).

I've done research and can find ones that hook up behind an ATV and ones that hook up to a 3-pt. hitch. Prices go from a couple of hundred to a couple of thousand.

I suspect the 3-pt models will have more weight and, therefore, break up dirt clods better.

What do you use?