Attachments for creating food plots.

[BufordBoone]

I've created a few food plots (clover, sunflowers, etc) with limited success.

I have a JD 2355 and a Kubota L5740

Basic advice I've received was:

1 - Mow the grass
2 - Poison (Roundup, etc) the grass
3 - Turn the ground up - I've used a large, heavy disc. Always seems to take 5-10 passes.
4 - Have a soil sample analyzed.
5 - Amend the soil as per report.
6 - Spread the seed - I have a spreader that I pull behind an ATV
7 - Cover up the seed - I was told "Just drag something over the field. Fence, Cedar pole, large pallet, don't matter". I've used a large, heavy pallet.

My problem areas:

Turning the ground. I have a 3-bottom plow (never used) should I plow the ground before running the disc?

Would it be better to just get a tiller?

Covering the seed - My plots don't seem to grow uniformly. For example, I created 3 strips of sunflowers. None of the strips have plants in the entire strip. Also, the areas that do have plants are not aligned. I suspect a planting issue. I'm not real sold on the "just drag something over it".

What additional implements , if any, would you recommend for making a food plot?

Cultipacker? - My reading appears to indicate it just breaks soil up. i have a friend that uses his after seeding.

Seeder?

No-Till Seeder?

Spring cultivator?

Spike tooth harrow?

Chain harrow?

I suspect there is a bit of overlap.

I don't mind getting another implement but I'd rather have as few as necessary.

Food plots are a hobby, after all. Besides, hogs will tear them up each year.

I'd love to hear what works for you.

Thanks.

 

[Soldier415]

Following

 

[Apsterbobed]

I'm just getting into food plots as well, and I think the people giving you advice are the same that I have talked to! I'm still clearing areas so I can't say to planting but I know a few people who do as you with mixed results and one guy who treats it like he is farming white tail. He goes all out plow, disk, 2 crops a year, and his whole family will get deer of his plots every year.

 

[Steave]

I just use the standard old farm implements: Turn Plow, have a 2 disc plow and a 2 moldboard plow the 2 disc plow is easier for me to use. Then disc harrow after speading fertilizer with a 3 pt spreader. Then planting seeds either with the 3 pt spreader or a planter according to what I'm planting. Then run the cultipacker to firm the seeds for good contact with the soil and to help with erosion.

If I'm breaking ground that hasn't been worked in several years I run a subsoiler about 12" deep just to help loosen. Makes it easier to turn. On plots I plant yearly sometimes a disc harrow is all that is needed to break up the ground but I get better results if I turn it. Spring turning is only 4-5" deep and if I turn in the fall (rare) it's deep as the plow will go.

Sunflowers around my place are gobbled up after they reach about 4-5" out of the ground. Crows, red birds, deer and whatever won't let them grow. There are some large fields growing around here but I'm not going to plant several acres just to have some.

 

[Areeves08]

If things aren't working well for you, it might be time to try another method. Disturbing the soil is avoided by most modern farmers, so it makes sense for plotters too. Check this out for an alternative...
The Throw n’ Mow Method | Page 2 | All Things Habitat - Lets talk.....

Another option if they're small plots is a harley rake and cultipacker. The seed bed created by the Harley Rake is 2nd to none, spread seed, pack and pray for rain.

 

[jeff9366]

I've created a few food plots (clover, sunflowers, etc) with limited success.
Clover and many grass seeds, which are small, will not germinate without strong sunlight. If you bury small seeds they will not germinate. Use a CULTIPACKER to roll in all seeds, large and small.

Most Clover is perennial, meaning once a Clover stand is well started it should go on for years without being re-seeded. Therefore do not plant perennial Clover nor other perennial food plot seeds where you plant annual food plot seeds.



Basic advice I received was:

1 - Mow the grass
2 - Poison (Roundup, etc) the grass
3 - Turn the ground up - I've used a large, heavy disc. Always seems to take 5-10 passes.
4 - Have a soil sample analyzed.
5 - Amend the soil as per report.
6 - Spread the seed - I have a spreader that I pull behind an ATV
7 - Cover up the seed - I was told "Just drag something over the field. Fence, Cedar pole, large pallet, don't matter". I've used a large, heavy pallet.

My problem areas:

Turning the ground. I have a 3-bottom plow (never used) should I plow the ground before running the disc?
No. Food Plot seeds are strong germinators. If you have adjusted your Disc to give a reasonably smooth bed behind the implement you will be fine.

LINK: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=


Would it be better to just get a tiller? No.

Covering the seed - My plots don't seem to grow uniformly. For example, I created 3 strips of sunflowers. None of the strips have plants in the entire strip. Also, the areas that do have plants are not aligned. I suspect a planting issue. I'm not sold on the "just drag something over it".

What additional implements , if any, would you recommend for making a food plot?

Cultipacker? i have a friend that uses his after seeding.
YES.

Seeder? No.

No-Till Seeder? No.

Spring cultivator? No.

Spike tooth harrow? No.

Chain harrow? No.

I don't mind getting another implement but I'd rather have as few as necessary.

Food plots are a hobby.


Questions for you:

1) What about soil moisture after seeding? Seed will not germinate or germinate irregularly if not maintained continually moist after being sown. A Culitpacker adds a short grace period.

2) How many hours of sun do your plots receive? Food plots are food crops. Most need 90% or more full sun in order to look like the pictures used in seed marketing.

 

[scdeerslayer]

I use a chisel plow before discing, otherwise the disc would never break up the soil.

I drag an old spike tooth harrow to smooth the ground and then again to cover up the seed. A chain harrow would work better. I have an idea to build something like a chain harrow that I think will work better than the spike tooth harrow but will be easier to carry than either the spike tooth harrow or a chain harrow. A cultipacker is a great idea, the problem I have is that I don't think they would work very well in my soil that isn't smooth and has a good number of rocks. It seems like you'd need a pretty smooth seed bed without rocks for them to really be effective. But covering the seed isn't much of an issue if you get a good rain right after planting.

If you have the funds, get a tiller and a seeder. Something like the Firmiseeder (Firminator without the disc) would be nice. That's the only seeder I know of designed specifically for food plot seed mixtures. I've kind of wondered if the Garber seeder would work well, it looks kind of like the old EZEE flow tow behind fertilizer spreaders.

 

[BufordBoone]

Most Clover is perennial, meaning once a Clover stand is well started it should go on for years without being re-seeded. Therefore do not plant perennial Clover nor other perennial food plot seeds where you plant annual food plot seeds.



Questions for you:

1) What about soil moisture after seeding? Seed will not germinate or germinate irregularly if not maintained continually moist after being sown. A Culitpacker adds a short grace period.

2) How many hours of sun do your plots receive? Food plots are food crops. Most need 90% or more full sun in order to look like the pictures used in seed marketing.[/QUOTE]

I try to time my planting to take advantage of moisture. For example, with last year's drought, I didnt' plant. The sunflowers I planted this year were put in specifically based on weather predictions (that, believe it or not, were correct).

Most of my plots are in very open fields. I have one in the woods but they all get a lot of sun.

 

[BufordBoone]

I just use the standard old farm implements: Turn Plow, have a 2 disc plow and a 2 moldboard plow the 2 disc plow is easier for me to use. Then disc harrow after speading fertilizer with a 3 pt spreader. Then planting seeds either with the 3 pt spreader or a planter according to what I'm planting. Then run the cultipacker to firm the seeds for good contact with the soil and to help with erosion.

If I'm breaking ground that hasn't been worked in several years I run a subsoiler about 12" deep just to help loosen. Makes it easier to turn. On plots I plant yearly sometimes a disc harrow is all that is needed to break up the ground but I get better results if I turn it. Spring turning is only 4-5" deep and if I turn in the fall (rare) it's deep as the plow will go.

Is there a difference between a "disc plow" and a "disc harrow" or is that just two terms for the same implement?

 

[jeff9366]

A Disc Harrow is a SECONDARY TILLAGE implement. A Disc Harrow mixes and smooths soil. Output after second pass with the implement should be a fairly smooth seed bed.

A Disc Plow is a PRIMARY TILLAGE implement. A Disc Plow turns soil, but does not mix it. Looks like one or two pans from an Offset Disc. It is a type of plow. Output after implement is generally rough.

LINK: TDP2 Series 2 & 3 Blade Disc Plows | Tufline