Loader mounted snow blower

[Lowrider2120]

QD plate is attached to the blower.

So...chain and sprocket with no clutch...right?

 

[leonz]

No clutch needed. Having either a secondary chain drive or a timing belt in a vertical mounting
to let the drive chain stay on a horizontal path would be best as the power train would not be
stressed by a long single row roller chain. In that way you can use a rubber torsion arm tensioner sprocket
to keep the chain working properly without having to worry about chain slack bouncing or an idler sprocket
sprocket on the top or under the top of the chain loop to maintain the proper tension.

What ever you do be sure to invest in the 60H or 80H roller chain with the cotter keys in every link they are the best ones as you can use a long cotter key to replace them when you have to repair a chain break as they do not need a roller
chain breaker but you will need a roller chain stretcher in your tool box. You should purchase the H roller chain as its heavier and thicker and the H sprockets as well. With any luck you will have to buy one box of roller chain and a herd of repair and half links for your tool box.

 

[Lowrider2120]

I was planning on 80 and it looks like 9 tooth driven at 2700 rpm and 45 tooth on the blower for 5:1...or roughly 540 rpm...sound right?

 

[leonz]

I was planning on 80 and it looks like 9 tooth driven at 2700 rpm and 45 tooth on the blower for 5:1...or roughly 540 rpm...sound right?

=========================================================
I have to check the math formula first.

Using the formula I have

2,700 rpm
9 tooth drive
45 tooth driven

80H chain will be stronger and of course last longer with the idler sprocket.

input 2700 rpm

output is 540 rpm

You need to find the exact center to center distance before we can proceed further so the you can position the tensioner to maintain passive tension on the upper chain strand with a rubber torsion arm mounted sprocket.




the next thing is mounting the 1 row or 2 row sprocket on the crankshaft.

 

[Lowrider2120]

That's what I got too.

I think the center to center distance must be at least greater than the sum of the 2 sprockets which are roughly 3" and 10". I'm guessing it will be at least 18" so I should be OK.

Need to save my allowance so I can get an engine.

 

[leonz]

Save my sanity please and buy the two row cottered 80H chain and a rubber torsion arm idler sprocket please as you will have a huge amount of torque you have corral at all speeds.

 

[Lowrider2120]

OK!...I need to keep what little bit of sanity that remains in my little pea brain.

 

[PILOON]

From experience I can advise U that chain stretches so you will want to have some sort of tensioner device in that loop.
I used #40 with a 16 hp 0n a 48" blower and that chain stretched in the 1st 3-4 hrs of usage.
Just my HMO .

 

[Lowrider2120]

Thanks...I'm with you Piloon. I'm planning slotted mounting holes for the engine to allow for the adjustment to deal with chain stretch. I'm an old motorcycle guy and very familiar with care and feeding of chain driven stuff.

 

[leonz]

Bonjour Mon Ami Piloon, hello lowrider,

Piloon, that is why I suggested the rubber torsion arm to support the free wheeling
2 row 80H sprocket.

All low rider has to do is bolt the engine to motor mounts and he will not have to worry
about having to slide the engine back and forth where the rubber torsion arm will keep
adequate tension on the tow row chain at all times and when the slack gets really bad
he can take a full link out and add back a half link without moving the power unit.
The rubber torsion arm maintains pressure on the roller chain and avoids any chain
bouncing and having the chain bounce off the sprockets at any time.

Leon