Loader mounted snow blower

[Lowrider2120]

Does anyone know if there is a centrifical clutch that would work for this application?

 

[leonz]

Hello and good afternoon Lowrider,


Candidly, even the largest Hilliard centrifugal clutch would not work simply because the snow would clog and stay there
And unless and until you shut the entire machine down and wait for the energy to be dissipated by the crank shaft and the clutch has slowed to a stop otherwise the second you clear a plug the slip clutch may well grip and eat the one by one used to free it up.

I honestly believe a manual Rockford PTO clutch would serve you better using a used V-4 Wisconsin engine attached to a quick hitch as the snow caster will still be protected by the following;

1. the shear pins
a. cross auger shear bolts
b impeller shear pins

2. drive and driven shaft keys
a. the gearbox to impeller shaft key
b. the gearbox to cross shaft key
c. the drive sprocket shaft key
d. the roller chain in the event that it tries to eat something that stops it.
e.the driven sprocket shaft key

3. If the Rockford Manual PTO clutch is used with the Wisconsin V 4 engine the replaceable clutch plates are the last defense to protect the engine.

The small wood chippers get around this by using a heavy flywheel and a manual PTO clutch in most cases but a flywheel would not work well with a snow caster.






I would check with Wengers of Myerstown, PA or a local tractor scrap yard near the Magic Valley to see if they have a 3 wheel 1975 or older Hesston swather crimper that they have parted out and hope they have a complete engine and PTO to sell as one unit for you with spare clutch plates. There still is plenty of good iron out there.

 

[Lowrider2120]

I'm trying to get away from shear bolts. I've run friction slip clutches on bush hogs, mowers and the like and I don't see why they wouldn't work throwing snow.

A centrifical clutch that engaged at maybe 1800 rpm would allow the engine to run at an idle then engage as it was powered up. would NEVER try to clear a clog without shutting down the entire system. I ran my blower last Winter on 9 PTO hp from my BX 1500 and it did just fine in 20" to 24" fairly light snows and the only time I had problems with shear bolts was the heavy wet slush this Spring. I just bought some Fluid Film to help with the wet stuff and maybe a coating of PTFE in the chute will help too.

I know the gas engine will need more power than the diesel but I can always go slower in the heavy stuff.

Looks like major bucks with the Wis. engine and Rockwell clutch...I'm just a poor retired civil servant.

 

[leonz]

If it helps any,

The least costly option is buying slick sheet leftovers from Horn Plastics and attaching it to the cross auger housing with flat washer head bolts from Farmtek used to secure plastic slick sheet will be less work and you can line the chute and impeller housing too.

Another cure is one of Clarence's Impeller Kits to improve the efficiency of the impeller paddles and eliminate almost all clogging from all types of snow and slush.

Between the two fixes and perhaps cutting small teeth in the auger ribbons with a sawzall your small mule will have no issues with snow and you can throw it at your neighbors yard it will be thrown so far.

You will be spending much less money for upgrading the existing snow caster and its impeller by lining the cross auger housing and the impeller housing it with slick sheet and adding Clarence's impeller kit would solve a lot of your issues.

There are plenty of you tube videos of Clarence's impeller kits improving walk behind and larger snow blowers.

Much less money for a better snow caster.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Agree with the friction reducing up grades and I have about 3/16" clearance between the impeller and housing so that seems just right.

I'm looking for a lightly used 25 hp Kohler or maybe a Honda V twin or at least a B&S Pro model to provide power. I think I have most of the mounting and drive system worked out in my head except the clutch...the Rockwell seems too heavy duty for what I think will be appropriate...still looking.

 

[leonz]

Hello Lowrider,




if you use a single roller chain drive with a toothed spring tensioned snubber pulley you should be fine.

The Hansen snow blowers used a direct chain drive with a Lovejoy coupler and they adjusted the engine position to take up chain stretching over time using a threaded rod to push the engine back - tis is why I suggested the V belt and snubber set up as the engine does not have to be moved the snubber pulley and spring arm do all the work once you have the right belt length measured to account for the need to tension the V belts to power the bevel one to one gearboxes

The Reist folks use a chain drive system like this to power the single stage rotor on their series 1000, 2000 and 3000 snow throwers through the right angle PTO gearbox.

A two row chain drive set up with the engine close to the gearbox would work. You would just have to purchase a remote operating cable for the engine to control it. At most all you would need is to purchase a longer weather proof power cable for the pendant control.

 

[Fallon]

I'm trying to get away from shear bolts. I've run friction slip clutches on bush hogs, mowers and the like and I don't see why they wouldn't work throwing snow.

I'd guess water & melting snow could re-freeze gluing the clutch together. It would then take a lot more force to make it slip.

The extra annual maintenance on slip clutches is annoying. Just did my tiller clutch annual & that takes over half an hour. Never had to do anything with my sheer pin on my rotary cutter.

 

[Lowrider2120]

I'd guess water & melting snow could re-freeze gluing the clutch together. It would then take a lot more force to make it slip.

The extra annual maintenance on slip clutches is annoying. Just did my tiller clutch annual & that takes over half an hour. Never had to do anything with my sheer pin on my rotary cutter.

You're supposed to do maint. on slip clutches?! My bush hog was 20+ years old when I sold it and I think I might have pressure washed it in the fall and always lubed as needed...never touched the clutch and it worked fine when I hit something too big to cut. Freezing of water in the clutch could be a problem though.

Leon,

More ideas! #2 son wants belts and not chains, but then he's not building it.

 

[leonz]

Number two son needs to be put over your KNEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Two row 60 chain with Lovejoy couplers, Boston Gear right angle bevel gearbox and two row tensioner sprocket arm, no less!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Look at the Reist Videos to see how simple they do it.

 

[Lowrider2120]

That worked 25 years ago.