Was doing some reading on the smarty S06. couple of questions..
Q1. With it being a tuner that hooks to OBD port, does it need to stay hooked up? Once I select a power level, if unhooked does it revert back to stock programming?
Q2. Does it modify any tranny stuff.
I dont like the current shift characteristics of the 4-speed auto. Even under normal driving, it seems like it should shift sooner. About 2500RPM and it seems to fall flat even when just a nice easy acceleration. It absolutely wont shift to 4th unless over 50MPH. So I often find myself getting to 50-55MPH and having to let off the pedal so it will shift and I can continue accelerating. And when towing, if climbing a grade that requires a downshift, it seems like it always downshifts 2 gears then immediately back up one gear.
Kinda hard to describe, but anyone with a 4-speed auto and 5.9L cummins probably knows exactly what I am talking about.
I had an '04 that I put 280,000 miles on. All but 20,000 of that was with a programmer. First I ran a Bullydog for about 20,000 miles or so and then a Smarty (not the jr) for the rest of the time I had it.
There are no hardware differences, just programming through the OBD port and there are different levels or settings for different purposes.
The reason the Smarty and the Bullydog are so good is because they don't change the rail pressure, just the timing and duration. This means better mileage on the lower settings and more power on the higher settings with no additional fuel system stress. It changes the throttle response to be much more immediate. The Smarty is a wonderful programmer.
If you don't have the stock size tires, 265/70r17, the shifting will suffer. As I recall, the Smarty will allow you to set the pinion factor for different tires. Stock rear end ratio is 3.73 on most of them.
You have to watch your EGT when towing and the 48 RE tranny is not designed for much more power than stock. The programming does nothing to the tranny. In the 2004.5 (Jan1, 2004 and later) models and later years, the tranny became partially computer controlled. They all are internally governed, but mine had a throttle cable going down to it for throttle position and I think yours is done with a wire. The 2004 and later ones also have a roller thrust bearing so you can add an exhaust brake if you want.
Mine had so much more torque down low that it overpowered the lockup converter. So I installed a heavier duty one and a valve body. It overpowered the new one too. When towing keep the RPM up at around 2,000 RPM or more and you'll be much better off.
So, I highly recommend the Smarty and running it on the towing setting of either 30 or 60 HP. This will advance the timing, increase throttle response and improve the mileage a bit. Then get gauges. Experiment with the 90 HP setting to see what it does and be ready to get a tranny if you like the results.
If you get a tranny, be sure to get a triple disk lockup clutch, the heavy duty intermediate band and a better valve body than stock. They also need an input shaft if you want to hammer it. And The flex plates are known to crack, so while you're in there, do that too.
The 48 RE is an evolutionary tranny that never really got sorted out. They can be made to be extremely tough, but they don't shift like you might expect them to. Remember, they came from the three speed Torque-Flite that came out in 1957. That tranny evolved with an aluminum case, no rear pump, heavier planetary, lockup clutch, etc. Then they needed another gear, so the OD was added on in about 1990. There were a lot of overheating problems with them earlier, but your '05 won't have that problem because it locks up and it has an additional heat exchanger.
Get ready to see some smoke.
You can get a Donaldson muffler that will pretty much bolt right in. These are not very expensive and work very well. Or, like I did, an MBRP stainless one and deal with it being louder. I ran mine out the side and put a glass packed tip on to get rid of some of the noise.
Overall, my Dodge drove like a sports car with instant torque and big power. When I sold it at 280,000 miles it still ran better than it did new and used no oil. I did nothing with injectors and only had to replace the throttle position sensor and a water pump in all those miles.
The 2005 models, I believe had plastic intercooler caps. So watch yours. You also have the can bus system and computer controlled waste gate. So you may need a boost fooler or boost bolt setup.
If you hate the shifting and drive in the mountains, you might like a mystery switch. I did it on mine and liked it, but you have to be careful with it as it manually locks the converter and keeps it locked. Drives like a stick in the mountains, but can be hard on things if not careful.
While here, allow me to stray off course a bit:
Your biggest problem other than the tranny is likely to be the front end. Lots of good fixes for that are available. Good ball joints, a heavy duty track bar and the 2008 or later steering linkage, pitman arm and damper. And, of course, U-joints and unit bearings. Then adjust the play out of the steering box, but don't follow the factory procedure. Do some research and do it the easy way. The larger the tires you run the more likely you'll have problems, but whatever you run BE SURE to keep them properly spin balanced.
Get a Smarty!
