Want pallet forks for ck35

[k0ua]

Thanks for all the inputs. I went ahead and ordered the 55" EA Wicked Root Rake Grapple. I will be using the W R Long 3rd function valve kit.

I think you will find that grapple will be very useful, more so than forks.

+1 on that. My forks sit a lot now that I have a grapple. I only use them now when I drag something home on a pallet. If moving brush or logs or rocks is in your future, you need a grapple. Heck I even use mine to pull up small saplings

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...y-wicked-grapple-bush-grabber.html?highlight=

 

[TN8Man]

+1 on that. My forks sit a lot now that I have a grapple. I only use them now when I drag something home on a pallet. If moving brush or logs or rocks is in your future, you need a grapple. Heck I even use mine to pull up small saplings

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...y-wicked-grapple-bush-grabber.html?highlight=

I've been removing cedar trees from my property. I already have a large (>25 trees) and growing pile of tree parts and I'm just getting started. Here is some examples.




Some trees are less than 10" diameter and are easy to pull out of the ground (root ball) with the tractor. But some are much bigger and require a combo of the tractor pull and a 4 ton come along. My first harbor freight 4 ton come along is now scrap metal.



But it was cheap in price and quality. I need to find a better and quicker method of removing the bigger cedar trees. I'm thinking (hoping) the grapple will make life much easier for me in removing trees and moving the downed trees to a burn pile.

 

[k0ua]

Keep in mind when pushing over small green trees like those cedars: Don't try for too big, and do it a day or so after a good rain. They will go much easier when the ground is not like concrete.. you need to wait a bit for the top of the ground to dry some so the tractor has good traction, but the lower soil is still moist. Never push on dead trees or trees with "iffy" looking branches. You are liable to get one over the head at worst, or a smashed tractor hood at best. If you have a dead tree you need to try to remove with a tractor, get a long chain/chains and put it on the fixed drawbar and try to pull them over. Of course if you can afford the rigging you can use the power advantage of "rigging" with multiple pulleys. Don't misunderestimate the height of this tree as you pull it down in your direction. An error could be fatal. One advantage of using "rigging" is you tractor pull can go in one direction and the tree fall can go into another. Always good if you can do it. Watch this little tractor pull a large tree stump with a 35 to 1 "rigging" :

 

[TN8Man]

Keep in mind when pushing over small green trees like those cedars: Don't try for too big, and do it a day or so after a good rain. They will go much easier when the ground is not like concrete.. you need to wait a bit for the top of the ground to dry some so the tractor has good traction, but the lower soil is still moist. Never push on dead trees or trees with "iffy" looking branches. You are liable to get one over the head at worst, or a smashed tractor hood at best. If you have a dead tree you need to try to remove with a tractor, get a long chain/chains and put it on the fixed drawbar and try to pull them over. Of course if you can afford the rigging you can use the power advantage of "rigging" with multiple pulleys. Don't misunderestimate the height of this tree as you pull it down in your direction. An error could be fatal. One advantage of using "rigging" is you tractor pull can go in one direction and the tree fall can go into another. Always good if you can do it. Watch this little tractor pull a large tree stump with a 35 to 1 "rigging" :

I do wait until after a good rain. I first cut down the top of the tree at about the 5' mark. Then I pull the remaining 5' trunk and root ball. I usually push and pull the trunk a bit to break loose the roots. I have had to tie a rope up high on a tree and bent it in the direction I want it to fall, before I cut with the chainsaw, with the tractor far enough away to miss the falling tree. This is only done when the tree is too close to something I don't want hit by the falling tree when something goes wrong.

That video is great! Lots of good information.

 

[trctorfan17]

Ok - looking at the specs of the equipment you posted:
Grapple - Weight: 700 lbs
Forks - Weight: 420 lbs

And for the KL4010 - Lift Capacity to Full Height at Pivot Pins is 1,835 lbs. (832 kg)

With that Grapple you're losing almost a third of your lift capacity & the forks just under a quarter.
Also, if you plan on working in tight quarters, the 72" wide grapple will be a monster. Think about the area you have to work in & then remember that's going to stick out beyond the sides of your tractor (if I recall the KL4010 sill comes with the same 60" bucket as our KL130)


We have these 36" forks from Titan (we bought the version that included the hay spear also - if you have no need for a spear, this is a little cheaper)
- Skid Steer hookup
- 3000 lb capacity
- Total weight: 105 lb (frame only) I'm guessing from hefting them on during the initial assembly that the forks add less than 80 Lbs total

They come in at $426.55 Less your 5% first time buyer is $405.22

Grapple width (Wide vs Narrow) and Number of lids has been beat to death over and over again in the Attachments forum & you're welcome to read the debate and decide for yourself, however I would recommend:

50" Compact Tractor Wicked Root Grapple
274 Lbs - $1,492.00

Compact Tractor Single Lid Wicked Root Grapple
54" - 348 Lbs - $1,690.00
72" - 435 Lbs - $1,831.00
Also offer 60" & 66" models as well

Or if you prefer a clam shell design to an L Bottom design

55" Wicked Root Rake Grapple
209 Lbs - $1,595.00

Full disclosure - I have the 50" Compact model and love it. The 55" clam shell style is a new offering that came out long after I purchased my grapple. Given the chance to do over again today I'm on the fence as to which I'd get given my usage.

We bought the forks first thinking we could move "stuff" with them that we couldn't get with the bucket. I tried moving some downed limbs and such with them. The trouble is you have to get them balanced or they won't stay on the forks. If you're cutting the trees into logs then forks might do pretty well but untrimmed trees and brush I think you will become frustrated and work much harder than you have to trying to load & move that with forks alone.

One alternative solution is to get a grapple thumb that goes on the forks to clamp down on stuff.
Pallet Fork Add-A-Grapple - Precision Manufacturing

or simply add one to your loader bucket
http://www.precisionmfg.com/products/add-grapple/single-add-grapple/



In all honesty now that we have the grapple it stays on the loader 90% of the time. About the only time we put the forks on now is during the winter to move a few small round bales of hay for my Uncles.

My advice - go read thru the Grapple threads in the Attachments forum - ask questions - look at the pictures & what tasks folks are doing with them to get a better idea of what you can use them for in your situation.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

I like that 36" pallet fork... should be good enough even for NX4510, which has 2,700 lift capacity.

There is always a need for a fork, even for moving a heavy water heater on a pallet.

Is 36" deep enough to carry most pallets?

 

[trctorfan17]

one thing I don't know...why is the 48" Titan that much heavier than the 36"?

 

[N2DFire]

I like that 36" pallet fork... should be good enough even for NX4510, which has 2,700 lift capacity.

There is always a need for a fork, even for moving a heavy water heater on a pallet.

Is 36" deep enough to carry most pallets?

Pallets can come in all different sizes based on what they are carrying, but an industry "standard" GMA pallet is 48" x 40" so as long as it's loaded fairly centered the 36" set will work ok. The loader lift capacity of the KL130 we have is roughly 1200 lbs at the pins so it's doubtful we will ever get anything nearly heavy enough that the shorter forks would be an issue. For larger loader capacity if you're going to deal with pallets a lot, I'd opt for the 48" instead.

 

[k0ua]

Pallets can come in all different sizes based on what they are carrying, but an industry "standard" GMA pallet is 48" x 40" so as long as it's loaded fairly centered the 36" set will work ok. The loader lift capacity of the KL130 we have is roughly 1200 lbs at the pins so it's doubtful we will ever get anything nearly heavy enough that the shorter forks would be an issue. For larger loader capacity if you're going to deal with pallets a lot, I'd opt for the 48" instead.

I took the middle road, the 42 inch forks. But my tractor is bigger and will lift a bit more. I sure would not want 48 inch forks, as the 42 inchers stick out a bunch. Care must be used when turning or you will stick em where you don't want them. I have never needed more on a full sized pallet. But some guys swear by the 48 inch ones.

 

[powerscol]

I also have the 42" forks that fit well. However I found mine at the local agg dealer for $200 less than Titan or anywhere else. Made by Ansung. So check around as some dealers carry forks to include with tractor sales.