PTO SHAFT CUT TO SHORT

[Ivan49]

Great, thanks very much!

Here is what I ran into when I did mine. The shaft on mine was the trangle shaped one and the outer dim of the outer tube was several thousands bigger than the factory shaft. What I did was cut the factory shaft off tight to the yoke and removed the pin. Then I bought 6 inchs of the inter tube slipped it into the yoke inside the old shaft and pinned it. Then I added a new piece of outer tube the length that I needed and drilled and pinned this to the stub on the yoke

 

[JWR]

Joesco: Pieces 7 and 8 in the handy diagram of post #8 are almost always replaceable. Some driveshafts (that term meaning the whole assembly including u-joints on each end) have parts 7 and 8 welded rather than pinned in place. Big Bubba is exactly right -- go to a good driveline specialist. These shops are around, all over the country, but may take some effort to find them. Larger tractor dealers with more complete service facilities often stock the tube (inner and outer, sections 7 & 8) and will cut it to length or sell you the stock lengths which are probably way more than you need. The triangular-oval shape cross section is the most common. Look out for diameter too as there are several sizes. Best take the old one in for checking fit. There is no need to go to a Kubota dealer for this stuff as it is quite universal and non-proprietary. In your case you know you need about 2" more length (or however much the quick-hitch added.) Before you jump to conclude that "longer is better" I had a similar situation with a rototiller on the back of a BX2200. If the shaft is too short = the problem you have now. If the shaft is too long then you cannot get enough room between the PTO and the implement to get it mounted (which I fumbled into.) The acceptable/usable length is somewhere between those two extremes.

By the way: In your case you only need to change ONE of the two #7 and #8 pieces of shaft, not both. Should not cost much.

 

[Ivan49]

The tube I bought was 16.00 and that fixed mine.

 

[JWR]

No reason for joesco (the orig poster) to work with wrong size tubing. If you tackle it yourself, get the right size tubing (thickness as well as other dimensions.) If you have it done in a competent shop you won't need to worry about any such details.

 

[Ivan49]

No reason for joesco (the orig poster) to work with wrong size tubing. If you tackle it yourself, get the right size tubing (thickness as well as other dimensions.) If you have it done in a competent shop you won't need to worry about any such details.

This is fine if you live in an area that has one. The closes one to me was 160 miles away. That is where all the dealers send them to in this area

 

[joesco]

Folks,
I had to cut my PTO shafts ends on my chipper for it to fit on my newly acquired BX2230. Yesterday, taking advantage of HF's 25% sale, I purchased a 3pt Hitch Quick Attach.

I installed it this morning and attached my chipper (what a breeze!) and now the shaft is to short. Can I just replace the shaft parts or do I need to purchase an entirely new PTO shaft?

Thanks very much!

Boy, what a time saving resourceful forum. Thanks for all the input. I ordered an Extender from Amazon, manufactured by Koch Industries. It would not fit on my BX2230 PTO shaft. The 2230 shaft is short. So I'm going to go on the hunt for a outer shaft and just repair it.

I'll post my repair report. Thanks again!

 

[boomer1025]

Did you keep the pieces you cut off the tubing the first time, if so weld the piece back on the outer tube.

 

[big bubba]

lots of talk trying to tackle drive line adjustments. since on a tractor pto the rpm is relatively low, sure, worth a try with the hacksaw and homeowner welder. but drive live specialists would be my choice if you know exact dimensions/travel etc of the shaft applications. they can contact dealer w/parts, etc.
let the experts handle it as they do in every day automotive applications. they could even spin balance, but may not be necessary given low rpm of shaft. my own concern would be shaft modification alignment. find a good drive line specialist or ask your dealer where they send theirs for special applications like your own. best of luck on that.

 

[boomer1025]

lots of talk trying to tackle drive line adjustments. since on a tractor pto the rpm is relatively low, sure, worth a try with the hacksaw and homeowner welder. but drive live specialists would be my choice if you know exact dimensions/travel etc of the shaft applications. they can contact dealer w/parts, etc.
let the experts handle it as they do in every day automotive applications. they could even spin balance, but may not be necessary given low rpm of shaft. my own concern would be shaft modification alignment. find a good drive line specialist or ask your dealer where they send theirs for special applications like your own. best of luck on that.

.
Your comparing 2 different applications. One with a single shaft with a slip yoke and the other a two piece shaft that one shaft slides into the other.
So how do you keep the pto shaft aligned when you need to add a piece to it. Easy, take the piece of outer tube that you cut off. Slide it on the inner tube of the shaft, now slide the pto shaft back together. Butt the piece of outer tubes together and tack weld the tubes together in 4 places. Now see if the pto shaft will slide in and out. If it does weld it up.
If you can't weld or don't trust your welds, take it to a welding shop and if that don't suite drive the split pins out of the end connections and replace the shafts.

 

[big bubba]

.
Your comparing 2 different applications. One with a single shaft with a slip yoke and the other a two piece shaft that one shaft slides into the other.
So how do you keep the pto shaft aligned when you need to add a piece to it. Easy, take the piece of outer tube that you cut off. Slide it on the inner tube of the shaft, now slide the pto shaft back together. Butt the piece of outer tubes together and tack weld the tubes together in 4 places. Now see if the pto shaft will slide in and out. If it does weld it up.
If you can't weld or don't trust your welds, take it to a welding shop and if that don't suite drive the split pins out of the end connections and replace the shafts.

let the drive shaft specialist align & weld or fabricate as they would in automotive applications for which they are set up. that's all i'm saying. if you want to crank up homeowner ingenuity & workmanship/improvisation on something like this, do give it a try.

i prefer on driveshaft problems to let someone qualified to do the work if you know exactly what you want ....how much time do you have in the day? best regards