Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[RoyJackson]

Being in California my dealer was recommending a Vrisimo for about $4k. They look like a well built piece of equipment but they are 2x as much as a Caroni. I haven't seen the Caroni but am curious if a machine built in Italy and shipped to the US can be 1/2 the price and near the same quality. Obviously I would much rather spend 2k than 4k but not having the experience of using a Caroni vs a premium brand I am unsure of what my extra 2k is getting me.

I can't comment on the Vrisimo...and one would really need them sside by side for a true comparison.
I do have the Caroni...is the Vrisimo worth twice the price...for the same mowing width...dunno, but I doubt it. I guess it's like comparing a King Kutter to a Woods or Land Pride.
The Caroni is a pretty simple, but robust piece of equipment. I'd like a mower that was more Quick Hitch compatible and the skid shoes/roller separate adjustments.
Build quality...very good, no complaints there...cut quality, same thing...no complaints. Durability...we'll see. IT has had his Caroni for 10 years and I expect mine to last just as long.

 

[leonz]

The Caroni flail mowers have the benefit of having many of the frame parts that the Caroni family uses for its rotoillers so there are cost savings there.

The Vrisimo flail mowers are flail mowers from the ground up and are very heavily built so if your dealer recommends the Vrisimo to you, you will not be making a mistake as a Vrisimo flail mower will also be easy to mount on a bigger mule with no trouble.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've never seen a Vrisimo flail but know they are highly respected and commercial quality. I've always considered my Caroni to be a medium duty mower comparable to my mid range Woods BrushBull 600 in quality. Personally I don't mow enough to justify a heavy duty commercial/highway dept flail. I mow perhaps a total of 40-50 acres of pasture/field per year. Most of the mowing is of two to three foot grass, weeds and briar. Though I did clear bigger brush with it originally I now only mow half an acre or so of brush per year. Just not enough work to justify twice the cost for a better mower especially since I have had no problems with mower integrity after ten years. Bottom line for me is that I find Caroni to be just like the quality of Woods or Landpride medium duty equipment.

 

[D2Cat]

I have two flail mowers. One is 6', one is 5' and both have the Y shaped knives.

I have a field I would normally mow with a brush mower and leave 8" high for cattle to graze. It's grass with a few weeds and about 2' tall in places.

Would a flail do what I want done? If so, how would I set it up?

 

[ericm979]

Which Vrismo is only $4k?

 

[leonz]

I want to welcome you as the newest member of the Flail Mower Nations.

Side slicer knives which are what you have are the best flail mower knife.

A flail mower will work well for you but you will have to decide if you want a shorter cut(2 inches tall or less) or to leave the rear roller at its lowest point being the highest cut(6"+)

The higher the cut the lower the pressure gradient(suction) to lift the clippings over the flail mower rotor.

I guess most of it is how many feed burners you have to graze and whether you want to mow every couple of weeks to create fresh growth for them rather than have woody stemmed grass plants during the season.

I have to do chores so I will be back after a bit.

 

[sidecarist]

I have two flail mowers. One is 6', one is 5' and both have the Y shaped knives.

I have a field I would normally mow with a brush mower and leave 8" high for cattle to graze. It's grass with a few weeds and about 2' tall in places.

Would a flail do what I want done? If so, how would I set it up?

Its tough to set up a flail to cut 8" high, impossible on some. Mine will cut at 5-6" reliably. The cut isn't as pretty as it is at lower heights, but its still nicer than a rotary. Maneuverability is much improved with the shorter length.

As you have a mower already set it up with the roller as far down as possible, and adjust your top link to get the height you want as long as there is no roller scraper or anything on the back that drags you should be ok. Give it a shot you have noting to loose.

Before you start give the mower a good once over grease, gearbox oil, belt condition, etc.

Good luck.

 

[DavesTractor]

Which Vrismo is only $4k?

They make a MiniMax now in 48, 60 and 72 inch sizes and the smaller one is around that price. I really prefer the Mighty Max, but the smallest is a 70" cut, but it's a touch over $5k in price. They are very, very good mowers but certainly are priced like something built very well right here in America, in fact right here in California. They are so smooth and quiet.

I do realize that most folks can't justify the cost unless they mow a ton or mow commercially.

 

[audsp98]

Anyone have any experience with the WoodMaxx Flail Mowers?

http://www.woodmaxx.com/FM_78H_Flail_Mower_p/fm-78h.htm

 

[sidecarist]

Anyone have any experience with the WoodMaxx Flail Mowers?

FM-78H Flail Mower | Flail Mower Attachment | Tractor Mower | PTO Mower | -WoodMaxx?

I have a 78H and like it a lot. With the exception of the roller scraper which they have redesigned its been top notch all the way. I'm using the duck foot knives and don't have any regrets on the purchase. With about 40HP at the PTO the tractor handles it fine even in tall thick weed growth.

 

[Steave]

I have two flail mowers. One is 6', one is 5' and both have the Y shaped knives.

I have a field I would normally mow with a brush mower and leave 8" high for cattle to graze. It's grass with a few weeds and about 2' tall in places.

Would a flail do what I want done? If so, how would I set it up?

When the weeds and other grass gets above my clover patches I just raise mine up with the 3pt hitch and go. I know its not the proper way to cut with a flail but it still clips the weeds at the height I want. With the weight hanging on the rear it does make for a little more bumpy ride.

 

[audsp98]

I have a 78H and like it a lot. With the exception of the roller scraper which they have redesigned its been top notch all the way. I'm using the duck foot knives and don't have any regrets on the purchase. With about 40HP at the PTO the tractor handles it fine even in tall thick weed growth.

How does it handle saplings and brush?

 

[D2Cat]

When the weeds and other grass gets above my clover patches I just raise mine up with the 3pt hitch and go. I know its not the proper way to cut with a flail but it still clips the weeds at the height I want. With the weight hanging on the rear it does make for a little more bumpy ride.

That's the answer I was looking for. I'm using a Deutz 6206, so it has a nice adjustable seat to keep the ride tolerable. I'm not looking for pretty.

I'm going to make some metal brackets with a hole (and a notch for a chain) so I can pin the top link and another one at the 3 pt pin with equal chain. Then I can mow the entire field with be the same height, not concerned with hydraulic drifting.

 

[sidecarist]

How does it handle saplings and brush?

It isn't as efficient with saplings as a bush hog. It will take down 1.5" easily, but sometimes will just strip the branches. To really take care of something that size I back over it to push it down then pull forward slowly and it gets thoroughly mulched. It might do 2" but I haven't tried it.

Brush like berry brambles is no problem at all, probably easier on the machine than heavy clover/grass

 

[IslandTractor]

It isn't as efficient with saplings as a bush hog. It will take down 1.5" easily, but sometimes will just strip the branches. To really take care of something that size I back over it to push it down then pull forward slowly and it gets thoroughly mulched. It might do 2" but I haven't tried it.

Brush like berry brambles is no problem at all, probably easier on the machine than heavy clover/grass

Agree however the bush hog will turn a 1.5"- 2" sapling into a whole bunch of small 1-5"-2" chunks of wood. A flail will take longer but will turn the saplings into unrecognizable mulch.

 

[Steave]

That's the answer I was looking for. I'm using a Deutz 6206, so it has a nice adjustable seat to keep the ride tolerable. I'm not looking for pretty.

I'm going to make some metal brackets with a hole (and a notch for a chain) so I can pin the top link and another one at the 3 pt pin with equal chain. Then I can mow the entire field with be the same height, not concerned with hydraulic drifting.

Yep, I use a piece of chain bolted to each lift arm and drooped over the hanger (on the tractor end) for the top hitch. That holds it in place and I can still raise it higher if I need to then when I let it back down the chain stops it in the same place. My tractor has position control but the hydraulics has the hiccups sometimes so this keeps it level. I also use them for traveling if I'm going a good distance.

 

[Fallon]

Yep, I use a piece of chain bolted to each lift arm and drooped over the hanger (on the tractor end) for the top hitch. That holds it in place and I can still raise it higher if I need to then when I let it back down the chain stops it in the same place. My tractor has position control but the hydraulics has the hiccups sometimes so this keeps it level. I also use them for traveling if I'm going a good distance.

My 3pt has always been solid for height control. So no need for check chains. But I set the hydraulic toplink to float, which is similar to replacing it with chain. It lets the mower pivot on the lift arms more on uneven terrain. A little more likely to scalp, but also less likely to come off the ground when the mule goes down a hill before the mower.

 

[Steave]

My 3pt has always been solid for height control. So no need for check chains. But I set the hydraulic toplink to float, which is similar to replacing it with chain. It lets the mower pivot on the lift arms more on uneven terrain. A little more likely to scalp, but also less likely to come off the ground when the mule goes down a hill before the mower.

I might have not been clear in the way I use the chain. It's hard for me to explain things in writing. The chain is used to hold the lift arms in a fixed position. I chain them to the upper rear of the tractor to hold them up without depending on the hydraulics. I still hook up the flail as normal with the top hitch.

Wish I had the hydraulic toplink and would use it as you do. My flails all have just the single hole for the top link and don't pivot on the lift arms. Of course the lift arms float "up" and keeps from bending something. I have used the chain for a top link once but like you said it allowed the knives to hit the ground a few times over some humps so I went back with the top link.

 

[docsfarm]

Agree however the bush hog will turn a 1.5"- 2" sapling into a whole bunch of small 1-5"-2" chunks of wood. A flail will take longer but will turn the saplings into unrecognizable mulch.

I agree with the above. The flail really mulches it down!

 

[RoyJackson]

Finally got some pictures of the Caroni flail mower in use...





The maximum offset works best for me, so that's probably where I'll leave it.
The field grass was anywhere from a foot to about 4 feet high, thick in some areas, thin in others. The field hadn't been mowed in 5 or 6 weeks, and we've had a lot of rain during that time.
If I can keep it mowed biweekly, I reckon it'll look pretty good in about a month or so.
The pictures don't show it well, but there's a lot of bamboo growth just off the field. I made a couple passes to see how the mower would handle that...seems to do OK. Clearing that bamboo will be slow going since most is as tall or taller then the tractor (including the cab) and I know it's pretty rutty under the bamboo.

So far, I really like the flail mower. I don't know if the Caroni is a more robust implement than the Woodmaxx, but the Caroni was available...the Woodmaxx flails won't be available for another month.