Can I "lift" a horse trailer

   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #21  
As near as I can tell by going to photobucket and looking at the pic directly on the site before the "hosting" page pops over it, yes that used torsion axles.

Then the reported brake function would be consistent with fully functioning brakes and unequal axle loads caused by the trailer sitting at an angle and the axles unable to equalize the load due to their inherent style characteristics.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #22  
I think if you go to Dexter's site, they have some charts that show flex and inches of travel versus load. If the axles were sized properly, I wouldn't think a few degrees of angle would be creating such dramatic braking issues. It almost sounds like the axles weren't sized correctly. But I'm not an expert.

I try to make my trailer as level as possible, but still maintain a slight uphill to help drain the whiz and for washing it out.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #23  
I think if you go to Dexter's site, they have some charts that show flex and inches of travel versus load. If the axles were sized properly, I wouldn't think a few degrees of angle would be creating such dramatic braking issues. It almost sounds like the axles weren't sized correctly. But I'm not an expert.

I try to make my trailer as level as possible, but still maintain a slight uphill to help drain the whiz and for washing it out.

Whoops abut the photobucket thing, I don't use it very often and they seem to have changed things up since the last time I posted pics. They really have made a mess out of it with all of the ads. May have to look for a different site. ***Edit*** Good lord, they want $399 per year for the plan that allows 3rd party hosting. So much for using photobucket anymore! For now will go back and fix the post by uploading the pics to TBN.

Belore is a pretty well known trailer brand, from Ontario I think. At least some of their stuff is rebranded Featherlite's. I am quite sure the axles were sized properly for the trailer. I never said it was just a few degrees though, it was definitely a noticeable slant. This is one of the reasons that I don't like this trend of raising the heavy duty trucks more pretty much every year. My F-250 is a 2011 and my friend has a 2015 that is a couple inches higher. I think the 2017's are even higher than that. I realize people like the look of a high truck and it helps sales, but it isn't doing any favours to those of us that need them for towing trailers.

My current hitch is a Reese goose
F14603826.jpg


I have a feeling my next truck will need a hidden hitch just so that it will be a couple of inches lower and keep the trailer level.
 
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   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #24  
This is one of the reasons that I don't like this trend of raising the heavy duty trucks more pretty much every year. My F-250 is a 2011 and my friend has a 2015 that is a couple inches higher. I think the 2017's are even higher than that. I realize people like the look of a high truck and it helps sales, but it isn't doing any favours to those of us that need them for towing trailers.
.

The height of trucks has become ridiculous. What's the old saying, big truck, small pen!s. Harder to get in, harder to load, can't reach over the bedrails etc...

My latest truck is a flatbed, so far I like it the best.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #25  
I will agree on the part of having the nose high on a trailer will cause issues with the brakes. I have a stock trailer with the tork flex axles. Before I bought the longer drop hitch when towing it behind our Suburban, probably 60% of the time, the front tires would slide. Not that it is level, they never lock up. It isn't uncommon when crossing uneven terrain to see one tire in the air on this trailer. So very little suspension travel but it does pull well and seems to ride fairly smooth. Same scenario on my utility trailer, except it has the conventional spring axle with load balancer. Before I got the longer dropped hitch, even with the spring axles the front tires would lock up quite easily (brakes on both axles). Now that it is level, they don't lock up any more.

Bottom line, keep the trailer as level as possible for best possible braking performance.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #26  
and of course what is being IGNORED in the replies about premature brake lock-up is that the wheels that lock up first are the lightest loaded ones - - and it DOESN'T MATTER.
a) If you are braking THAT HARD with horses on board you are getting into situations beyond your capabilities - please stop doing that for the horses' sake(s).
b) The axle with the additional load isn't locking up because it is carrying more load - and will therefore lock-up LATER than if it had been equally loaded.
Bottom line: braking is ALL about coefficient of friction, NOT about area of contact or how many wheels are involved.

If you really want to solve this for minimum cost WITHOUT raising the C of G do the geometry and figure how many cm of tire size increase on the front axle will get you equal load.
Don't worry about equal braking - truck drivers with lift axles don't :D

Preemptive comment about being cut off and having to brake hard; Again, don't get into those situations.
I towed 4 horses about 150 miles yesterday with no trailer brakes - not a problem, I drive very conservatively in consideration for the horses and I don't "invite" people to cut me off.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #27  
and of course what is being IGNORED in the replies about premature brake lock-up is that the wheels that lock up first are the lightest loaded ones - - and it DOESN'T MATTER.
a) If you are braking THAT HARD with horses on board you are getting into situations beyond your capabilities - please stop doing that for the horses' sake(s).
b) The axle with the additional load isn't locking up because it is carrying more load - and will therefore lock-up LATER than if it had been equally loaded.
Bottom line: braking is ALL about coefficient of friction, NOT about area of contact or how many wheels are involved.

If you really want to solve this for minimum cost WITHOUT raising the C of G do the geometry and figure how many cm of tire size increase on the front axle will get you equal load.
Don't worry about equal braking - truck drivers with lift axles don't :D

Preemptive comment about being cut off and having to brake hard; Again, don't get into those situations.
I towed 4 horses about 150 miles yesterday with no trailer brakes - not a problem, I drive very conservatively in consideration for the horses and I don't "invite" people to cut me off.

But you aren't understanding what we are saying. We are trying to prove our point, that the axles aren't carrying equal load. That is the problem. The symptom is the early lock-up. So our point is, the axles aren't equalizing. So while you may be under the GVWR of the trailer, you could still be overloading an axle because they both aren't carrying their fair share.

I agree that changing tire size on the front axle may solve the issue, but now you have to carry two spares. Get the trailer level and fix the true issue.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #28  
I am understanding all too well what you are saying, I am just saying that the tires/axles don't NEED to be carrying exactly the same weight.
Go back to my reply where I suggested to weigh the rig axle by axle.
As long as the tires are within their ratings there isn't a problem.
If they aren't - well, maybe you need G rated tires :D
Lifting the trailer just to make it appear level is a "solution"(not really) to a problem that in most cases isn't a "PROBLEM".
The higher CofG is likely a much worse issue than a couple of hundred pounds difference in axle/tire loads.
A slight uphill attitude is a GOOD thing for horse comfort.
Higher roll center, higher wind pressure center - with a live load that is likely to shift its weight.
Thanks, but no thanks.


Cars and trucks are carrying different loads at each end on the same size tires, they SHOULD be inflated to different pressures and most car/truck manufacturers state that on the door post sticker.

No need to carry two spares, either size will be a "good enough to get you home" tire.

I avoided the whole TOO HIGH nonsense by buying a chassis/cab and having a flatbed put on it.
I can lower the trailer coupler tube to wherever I want it, no issue about having to clear bed side rails.
I don't have to climb into a truck bed to hook up chains either, I just reach over.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #29  
I bought a 2002 37' camper new and a new Dmax dually for hauling it. The nose of the camper seemed close to the box so I extended the nose about 3-4" for a clearance concern then the camper was more off level front to back.

We took off on a long trip but stopped 4 miles from home at a feed mill to weigh the axles. I found the rear axles weighed about 100# more than the front axle. I was concerned of to much weight on the rear so I went back home and shorten the hitch to bring in down to normal, which the camper still was aiming up a little and reweighed both axles. It made probably 50# difference. It was a negligible amount.

These were 7250# Dexter axles mounted on springs.
 
   / Can I "lift" a horse trailer #30  
Anyone that hauls 4 horses 150 miles on a trailer with no brakes isn't qualified to lecture here. Period. That is an act of stupidity, plain and simple.
 

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