Electric Polaris Ranger

[Xfaxman]

Yep, Voltronics makes 3 different capacity kits, 160Ah, 180Ah and 200Ah. I chose the smallest one because we don't need the longer range.

 

[Xfaxman]

Don't like the way the new one is to be mounted to the supplied block plate. It would not be removable if you believe their claims about the VHB mounting tape. So I made my own mounting system.

Here is the block plate that I didn't want to use:

Rear view, note that it is completely round, so I would have had to file out the top and bottom of the hole for it to fit.

The double stick VHB tape around the edge "permanently" holds it in place.

Also didn't like that it isn't flat where the meter would stick on "permanently".

Here is the signal cable that plugs into the meter:

Installed and held in place by my mounting contraption. :thumbsup:

 

[Xfaxman]

Here is a shot of what Voltronics calls the B+ and B- Traction Cables, where they bolt onto the back of the battery boxes:

And the BMS enclosure, note that there isn't enough cable inside, had to loosen the clamp and pull more wire in:

The BMS computer is a tight fit, didn't stick it down yet:

Some snips from my computer screen of the BMS program.

Before charging:

Charging, note the pack current and voltage:

Live Parameters

 

[Xfaxman]

Had some weird problems when I finished the installation. None of the center dash lights worked. Had wrench and overtemp lights on and 3 flashes (power fault) on Sevcon. The new SOC meter had the Error light and Reduced Power light on.

Here are all of the brown ground wires on four ring terminals, on the B- cable stud on the Sevcon before removal:

I put the grounds up out of the way when reinstalling it after Voltronics reprogrammed it:

Here it is with Li-ion packs bolted in but the B- traction cable not installed yet. Note that only 3 bundles of ground wires are visible.

I didn't take a picture after I put the B- cable and ground stud back in place. I decided to reseat the signal cable on the Sevcon since it wasn't working right and I found a bundle of ground wires that I had not connected to the ground stud when I put the B- cable on the Sevcon. Now the dash lights work, but still have some other problems.

But I did get to drive it again, first time in a long time.

Here it is without the side panels installed, the right side battery pack and BMS enclosure are visible:

 

[Xfaxman]

There has been a lot of discussion on the Ranger Forum about these two cables and the 2 amp fuses. They each go to a diode, then are tied together and go to the 2 amp LSV fuse then to the Constant Power Terminal under the hood:

Left side.

Right side:

Here is what the shop manual says:

The Constant Power Terminal mentioned above:

They are used on the Low Speed Vehicle version. It isn't mentioned in the conversion kit instructions, so I cut the corroded connectors off and taped them with white electrical tape. I still need to ty wrap them out of the way.

 

[Xfaxman]

Had some weird problems when I finished the installation. None of the center dash lights worked. Had wrench and overtemp lights on and 3 flashes (power fault) on Sevcon. The new SOC meter had the Error light and Reduced Power light on.
------------------------
I found a bundle of ground wires that I had not connected to the ground stud when I put the B- cable on the Sevcon. Now the dash lights work, but still have some other problems.

One of the problems is it won't ever go out of 2WD into turf mode or AWD.

Well I tracked down the problems to the voltage out of the 48 volt to 14 volt converter. I guess that it got critical injuries when I turned the key on with that bundle of ground wires left off. All of the 12 volt fuses blew then.

The voltage out of the converter jumps around and never gets to a steady voltage over 12 volts. When the key is turned on, the contactor won't pull in. Turn the key off and back on and the contactor pulls in and most things work, but the voltage jumps all over.

Replacement converters are expensive, over $400, so I pulled the connector off of the converter, set a 12 volt car battery on a piece of 2 x 6 resting on the differential and forward. Connected some wires to the battery side terminals and the ring terminals on the end of the wires pushed into the connector against the yellow output wire and brown ground wire.

It worked, the contactor pulled in first time the key was turned on and turf mode and AWD worked. :thumbsup:

Since everything worked I ordered a converter.

 

[JRobyn]

Ouch! NOT what you needed after ponying up for the Voltronix!

 

[Xfaxman]

Yep, Their BMS worked even with the flaky voltage. Haven't done a full charge yet.

State Of Charge meter is at 40%:

 

[vvanders]

Ouch! NOT what you needed after ponying up for the Voltronix!

No kidding, not sure what the amp pull is on the 14v line but a step down DC-DC converter shouldn't be that much. May we worth digging up some parts from Linear or the like and seeing if they have a reference circuit that's close to what you'd need.

 

[Xfaxman]

It is a 300 watt Sevcon 48 to 14 volt converter # 622/11111.

I did look at some other brands but stayed with the Sevcon. Found one for $353.04.

I also considered removing the bad converter and permanently using a 12 volt battery like the test setup posted above.

That would require a separate battery charger, but didn't want to go that route.