GC1705 - snow removal near Denver

[AxleHub]

I have a steep 120' long driveway and I just picked up a used kubota bx2750d to put on front of my GC1710. Overkill is all in the eyes of the beholder. I highly value efficient snow removal.

Just curious, did I read that the massey has the opposite rotation from a kubota? If so, what needs to be changed to make it work ?

 

[Jonohio]

Just curious, did I read that the massey has the opposite rotation from a kubota? If so, what needs to be changed to make it work ?

Both rotate the same direction, however on another thread I was trying to retrofit a craftsman agrifab blower on the GC1710 and that one did rotate the opposite direction.

 

[atsah]

To follow up on my earlier post, I tried the back blade and found it wasn't what I expected. I purchased a 60 inch bucket and a B54 Blizzard 3pth blower, I hope I'm done figuring out what works best on my property.

 

[Phillip w]

To follow up on my earlier post, I tried the back blade and found it wasn't what I expected. I purchased a 60 inch bucket and a B54 Blizzard 3pth blower, I hope I'm done figuring out what works best on my property.

Here are my thoughts on the subject. You should be able to pick up a 3 pt rear blade that pivots so you can change the angle on it. The cost of a 4-5 foot blaude should be a couple hundred dollars. A blade that size should be relatively light and not to hard on the concrete.

 

[Phillip w]

Here are my thoughts on the subject. You should be able to pick up a 3 pt rear blade that pivots so you can change the angle on it. The cost of a 4-5 foot blaude should be a couple hundred dollars. A blade that size should be relatively light and not to hard on the concrete.

Hit the wrong button again and didn't get to finish my thoughts. I have used a rear 3 pt blade to remove snow for years. I have a 5 ft for my little tractor and an eight foot blade for my big tractor. If we get a big snow, it is not uncommon to open some of these back roads ourselves to feed and check cattle. We don't have time to wait on the county. Basically you set your blade at an angle, lower the blade and take of going forward. If you run into a big drift, you use the loader to break open drifits. It works quite well. My wife had to go to town once and I told her to follow the tractor. I plowed her out all the way to the main highway. If it was me, I'd pick up a rear blade, regroup your finances and see where you financially this time next year.

 

[atsah]

A blade may work for you but we run out of room in my location to stack snow, my backyard is fenced and needs to be cleared of snow and the only way to clear it is to blow it over the fence. The time it takes to bucket snow at -5F is way too long. A blower will cut my time down to less than half. Trust me I tried every way possible with the rear blade and I found it to be close to useless other than ballast for my property.

 

[AxleHub]

Just curious Atsah, if you have a fence - what is on the other side of it that you can blow into another area?

I had a similar problem with using a plow blade concept for my location. One reason was it was hard on all the concrete sidewalks and patios and driveways - and we have quite a bit of all three. I found a product by Ratchet Rake called a snow edge and that has worked quite well for me to do controlled plowing, then move the piles as I'm finishing each plow run. I lift it right over piles and unlike a back blade - the snow gets better compacted so it takes up less space and I'm also not driving over the snow before the plowing gets to it.

They claimed with inexpensive implement could go up to 32 hours before needing a replacement edge - but I'm already 2 seasons of snow use (well over 50 hours) and the concrete has not worn it down enough to replace as yet. I figure another full season before I buy a replacement edge to mount on the snow edge.

Just a different type of choice (ps. now the edge replacement pieces are available in 48, 54, and 60 inch lengths. I figure when I do get a new replacement edge it will be the 54 inch for my 48 inch bucket so I can guide the snow curl even better

http://www.ratchetrake.com/images/snow_edge_info_revised0915.pdf

AxleHub

 

[atsah]

Just curious Atsah, if you have a fence - what is on the other side of it that you can blow into another area?

I had a similar problem with using a plow blade concept for my location. One reason was it was hard on all the concrete sidewalks and patios and driveways - and we have quite a bit of all three. I found a product by Ratchet Rake called a snow edge and that has worked quite well for me to do controlled plowing, then move the piles as I'm finishing each plow run. I lift it right over piles and unlike a back blade - the snow gets better compacted so it takes up less space and I'm also not driving over the snow before the plowing gets to it.

They claimed with inexpensive implement could go up to 32 hours before needing a replacement edge - but I'm already 2 seasons of snow use (well over 50 hours) and the concrete has not worn it down enough to replace as yet. I figure another full season before I buy a replacement edge to mount on the snow edge.

Just a different type of choice (ps. now the edge replacement pieces are available in 48, 54, and 60 inch lengths. I figure when I do get a new replacement edge it will be the 54 inch for my 48 inch bucket so I can guide the snow curl even better

http://www.ratchetrake.com/images/snow_edge_info_revised0915.pdf

AxleHub

My closest neighbors are 1/4 mile up the road so the forest is all I can see, no neighbor to deal with. The woods is where the snow will be going.

 

[irvingj]

Me, too. Blow the snow into the woods. FEL takes too long, plows leave ridges and piles that just get bigger & bigger during the winter. With the blower, no ridges and no piles; driveway stays at normal width over the course of the season. A blower's what works best for me.