Do I need a 3 point quick hitch?

[Industrial Toys]

The day, the 3PH (or Ferguson System) is gone from the Earth will be a good day indeed. Too bad we got stuck with that for so long. I use a quick tach with top tilt and it makes the 3PH bearable. The heavier the attachments (as in, you can't budge them) the worse the 3PH struggle gets. I personally, don't understand why going only half way (well really 2/3) to a Pats rather then to total quick tach.

 

[MAN IN BLACK]

Well...i don't agree with you,I am in the opposing corner.
I personally don't see the utility of these so call quick hitch or quick attach...unless you change implements multiple times in a row each day...which is far from my case.
To each is own !

 

[jenkinsph]

If you use your tractor a lot the quick hitch allows you to change implements on a whim. Not so easy with Pats or a standard hitch. Quick and easy changes for my use save a lot of time drop a landplane and pick up the heavy roller only requires a minute or two without leaving the cab.

 

[piercedtiger]

Well...i don't agree with you,I am in the opposing corner.
I personally don't see the utility of these so call quick hitch or quick attach...unless you change implements multiple times in a row each day...which is far from my case.
To each is own !

I got my Harbor Freight quick hitch primarily to deal with my 500lb 54" tiller. Can't leave it on to mow, and it's on/off several times between our garden, gardens for other people, and just ballast for the loader. When it doesn't sit level it's a real pain in the *** to get the lift arms to line up with the pins. Ever try to juggle a 500lb implement by yourself, line the pins up, and toggle the 3pt height all at the same time? How about being able to just back up and lift? Even if it's not level, one of the lift pins will drop into the QH first while lifting up to seat the other. Even if it's not perfect a good 3pt bounce, kick or shove usually drops it into place. If all else fails the top hook can lift for moving it around. Now I don't need a perfectly level concrete pad to park the tractor on for putting it on or taking it off. Same for the heavy ballast box and the rear blade. I just block everything at the right height, pull the levers, drop the 3pt, drive way, back up to the next, flip levers back down, lift, drive away. Don't even need to get off the tractor except for the tiller's PTO.

 

[vsteel]

If you use your tractor a lot the quick hitch allows you to change implements on a whim. Not so easy with Pats or a standard hitch. Quick and easy changes for my use save a lot of time drop a landplane and pick up the heavy roller only requires a minute or two without leaving the cab.

I have a Pat's and think it is easy and very quick to hook up implements. Though I don't know why all tractors don't come with that type of hookup. I honestly didn't know the balls were the norm because the 770 Oliver came with a system that was a lot like a Pat's except they were arms you could flip easily and go from a cat 1 to a cat 2 in a couple of minutes. Why in god's name they still use balls I have no idea.

 

[Z-Michigan]

Well...i don't agree with you,I am in the opposing corner.
I personally don't see the utility of these so call quick hitch or quick attach...unless you change implements multiple times in a row each day...which is far from my case.
To each is own !

Most of my tractor implements weigh 600-900lbs. I cannot move these around (on dirt) by hand or even shove them to get into place, even if it's half an inch away. On two previous tractors with extendible draft links I found it took 10-20 minutes to change implements, between very careful backing up and a lot of fiddling and shoving with the draft link ends, and I was storing everything on pallets as level as possible and as accessible as possible. And without extendible draft links it would have been all but impossible.

The only good workaround I found was to store my flail mower on moving dollies inside a barn with a level concrete floor. That way, despite the 700lb weight, I could move the mower right into position and hook up very quickly. But dollies cost money and it's not practical to store really large implements like rotary cutters in this way, nor did I have a large enough barn to have all my implements inside, on that level concrete floor.

There are at least two different quick hitch systems available (ASAE and ISO) and both of them look very effective, with their own individual merits. I think it would be a plus if all tractors simply came with one. Failing that, I think a quick hitch is $100-300 well spent.

 

[Musdalen]

I am becoming less and less of a fan of my quick hitch. It is annoying or impossible in some instances.

 

[RoyJackson]

I am becoming less and less of a fan of my quick hitch. It is annoying or impossible in some instances.

Other than older implements that may not work with a quick hitch...when is it annoying or impossible?

 

[Musdalen]

Well, older implements that don't fit because sizes are not standardized is part of the problem. So, I converted them, though it was just luck that the could be converted at all.

Then there is the problem with newer implements (~4 yrs old). In my case a simple rotary mower that won't work as well. It wouldn't work with the original toplink because that was a floppy thing that would allow the tail of the mower to rise when going over a bump. Removing that and using a fixed pin is simple enough, but the lower hooks are blocked from engagement by reinforcing gussets that are part of the mower's structural support. I could get a cutting torch and cut the gussets. but that would weaken the whole operation. And then I have to come up with someway of allowing the top-link play so I don't bridge the mower when coming down off a rise. Doable, but a PITA. And that doesn't solve the gusset problem.

And then there is the issue that for all implements, the top link has to be adjusted right or it will over- or undershoot the top link hook up when the side-link hooks are aligned, so I have to get off the tractor most of the time anyway. No big deal really but it somewhat defeats the purpose of the QH. Nothing a couple hundred or more wouldn't fix with the installation of rear remotes (more than the two already in use) and a hydro top link.

What would have been better, in hindsight, would be quick-links or whatever they are called that allows one to slide each side link ball out to engage and then snap into place when the tractor is backed up after connection. I may go this route yet.

 

[DieselBound]

Existing implements with floating top links might be able to be adjusted/configured for QH use by shifting the floating top link bracket as:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23501&d=1468869051

 

[Redlands Okie]

The quick hitch system is just plain hard to beat. Adjustable ends on the 3 points help a lot. A second close item to check is

Pat's Quick Hitch, 3 Point Quick Hitch, Tractor Hitch

 

[Turbys_1700]

I'm glad the majority of folks on here like the quick hitch. I know I'm in the minority but I sold mine after fooling around with it for 3 or 4 weeks. I really don't change implements that often. When I start brush hogging I just leave it on the 4610 SU. I use the Workmaster to finish mow and when I use the box blade I just use the Workmaster. With the telescoping arms I find the time not that great anyway. I always try to park my implements on level ground which helps immensely.

 

[Musdalen]

Existing implements with floating top links might be able to be adjusted/configured for QH use by shifting the floating top link bracket as:

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23501&d=1468869051

I like that adaptation! It wouldn't solve all my problems, but I like it nonetheless.

 

[Soldier415]

Had pat's easy change on my older tractor. Now i've been looking at doing a quick hitch for the new one. After watching some videos I think i'm sold on it

 

[scdeerslayer]

Most of my tractor implements weigh 600-900lbs. I cannot move these around (on dirt) by hand or even shove them to get into place, even if it's half an inch away. On two previous tractors with extendible draft links I found it took 10-20 minutes to change implements, between very careful backing up and a lot of fiddling and shoving with the draft link ends, and I was storing everything on pallets as level as possible and as accessible as possible. And without extendible draft links it would have been all but impossible.

The only good workaround I found was to store my flail mower on moving dollies inside a barn with a level concrete floor. That way, despite the 700lb weight, I could move the mower right into position and hook up very quickly. But dollies cost money and it's not practical to store really large implements like rotary cutters in this way, nor did I have a large enough barn to have all my implements inside, on that level concrete floor.

There are at least two different quick hitch systems available (ASAE and ISO) and both of them look very effective, with their own individual merits. I think it would be a plus if all tractors simply came with one. Failing that, I think a quick hitch is $100-300 well spent.

We've kept steel pipe or an old t post near where implements are stored to help move them a little. I've got Pat's hitches on now and that eliminates the need to move implements.

 

[Cataclysm]

Bought my dad a quick hitch for his MF 1529 after reading this thread. He is getting older and having trouble changing implements. Took it over there and pinned it on his tractor and then swapped implements to show him what it could do. He was thrilled and can now easily change implements with out help.

THANK YOU TBN!!!

 

[Cataclysm]

Here's an update since getting my dad a quick hitch. He wouldn't be without one now. Plus my BIL saw it an immediately had me put one on his tractor.

Yep, now I have one as well. On brush hogs we changed the A frame back so the floating link still works. We did learn you have to have the floating link loose or it will come unhooked. I ran my brush hog in some rough terrain for the first time yesterday and the top link stayed hooked just fine.

I can't believe tractors don't come with these standard.

Thanks again TBN!!

 

[piercedtiger]

Here's an update since getting my dad a quick hitch. He wouldn't be without one now. Plus my BIL saw it an immediately had me put one on his tractor.

Yep, now I have one as well. On brush hogs we changed the A frame back so the floating link still works. We did learn you have to have the floating link loose or it will come unhooked. I ran my brush hog in some rough terrain for the first time yesterday and the top link stayed hooked just fine.

I can't believe tractors don't come with these standard.

Thanks again TBN!!

I've been wondering the same thing. LOL Mine hasn't come off since I put it on the tractor a year or two ago. When combine with converting my GC2600 to SSQA it allows me to drop the bucket off the loader, lift with the rear QH lift hooks, and carry the bucket onto my trailer. Takes some length off the front (until I can get a bigger trailer), and shifts some of the weight to the rear of trailer too. In addition to switching implements faster and easier.

 

[Fallon]

I wouldn't be without my QH. It's not nearly as useful without TnT, but still nice. I was really happy to get TnT on my new machine finally. I can often hitch up without getting out of the seat now.

I occasionally have issues with the toplink popping off with mowers while miwing. Generally I just didn't care. I'd keep mowing & worry about hooking the toplink back up before I'd head home. I probably could have reinginered or even just reconfigured the A frame to move the flex link, but never cared enough to do so.

 

[Shady oak]

I have a tiller with the old open pins. They are a pain. But the two newer implements, a Woddland Mills stump chipper, and wood chipper both have the two sided parts with a pin to go through the tractor arm. Those are really easy to hook up. Not sure I rehook often enough to make a quick hitch worthwhile.