Chainsaw chaps.

[N80]

Never had any control issues on those and only put on chaps when using the 280 a couple of times when I knew I'd be in a funky reach/position but threads like this make me think twice.

I've never had any control issues with my little 250. Until I did. The thing that still amazes me about this incident is that it happened so fast that I did not see it happen. The bar also hit me so hard that the only pain I felt was the blow to my leg, not the cut and there is a big bruise there. All of that tells me that the forces, even for a little saw, were still quite high. But, you also mention being in a funky position. That was probably the key factor. I was bent over, twisted to the left in thick brush. To me, that's the recipe for trouble. Unfortunately that's about what I spend half of my time with a chainsaw doing. So more than saw size, I think the task and the environment are factors that would dictate when to use the chaps. Add a big saw with a non anti-kickback chain and the stakes are even higher.

I also saw a video, most of us have probably, that show the most common injury sites. Left leg is highest, then right. After that it is head and shoulders. So I'm probably going to get a helmet too as I often cut branches overhead. And if that little saw can kick back that hard when I'm leaning over there is no way I'd be able to control it up over my head or at head level.

 

[newbury]

Was using my Stihl 18" chainsaw this weekend clearing brush and small trees. Was tired. It was thick with lots of vines and branches. Felt something hit my leg hard. Thought it was a branch. Looked down and there was a hole in my pants and I was bleeding. Never even saw it happen but pretty much how I always figured it would happen. Was extremely lucky. Got about a 4" laceration on inside lower part of my knee. No tendon, muscle, no knee cap, bone or joint capsule. Got it stitched up in the ER.

Anyway, my daughter and S-I-L have been on me for a year to get chainsaw chaps which I should have done. Now they want to get me a pair for my birthday. I saw them on line for about $40 but when I mentioned them to my S-I-L, who uses commercial chainsaws about every day, he said not to get "cheap" ones because he saw a demo on YouTube that compared $40 ones to $120 ones and the $40 ones did not perform well. The test was applying the chainsaw at full throttle to the chaps like cutting a log.

Anyway, they have no business spending $120 bucks on me (no matter how dumb I've been). So looking for opinions. Is there really a need to pay $120 for chainsaw chaps?

No need to get good $120 chaps IF you can get equally good $40 chaps. How was that trip to the ER? Any good pics? Did you meet new people?

I like this one to remind me to wear chaps:

not my leg, learn from others

I watched the video. Not exactly a very well set up or controlled test. However, I still think the take home message is layers. Which makes sense. And it makes sense that more layers will cost more. He also mentioned the other downsides. More layers are hotter and heavier.

I think you'd also have to match the saw to the chaps. My little Stihl is a consumer grade saw with a moderately aggressive chain. It also runs the least aggressive home owner anti-kickback chain. He was using a powerful professional saw. I didn't hear him say but I suspect that was a professional chain too.

So at the very least I think there is more to think about than just buying the most expensive ones you can find. I'll continue to research.

My S-I-L is big into Stihl and I suspect that is the brand they'll get me. I'll get my wife to help them out a little.

I did notice that the Forester brand chaps, $38 on Amazon, meet OSHA, ASTM and UL standards. They claim twelve layers. The ones he tested had 4. The Stihl brand had 9.

Yes, match the saw to the chaps. Using a sawzall light chaps will do. Try dropping a running 35CC saw on a side of beef, it'll cut pretty well. I've got 2 pairs of chaps - Stihl full wrap and Stihl apron. I try and be extra careful when using the aprons. If your chainsaw is too weak to cut through a thin pair of chaps it's too weak to cut wood.

Get good chaps, a helmet w/ full face shield and chainsaw safe gloves and stop visiting the ER.

 

[N80]

No need to get good $120 chaps IF you can get equally good $40 chaps.

Well, that's what I was asking about. Not sure there is such a thing and most folks assume more money = more safety. It might in this case. Still not sure.

How was that trip to the ER?

Interesting. Tiny town. One doc, one nurse. Looked like it was from the 1950s.

Any good pics?

Yes, but compared to the one you linked to it looks like nothing.

Did you meet new people?

ER doc was Russian. Working a 24 hour shift. He complained about the cheap throw-away suture tools. We commiserated. (I'm a doctor too).

 

[JRobyn]

Bumping this thread reminded me that I intended to check my chaps to see who made them - Sherrill. But they sure look just like the Labonvilles. I got mine through Bailey's. IIRC, they were on sale, so not TOO expensive, but definitely not cheap (maybe $80?). For whatever I spent, I feel certain that they are well-made. That makes me FEEL a little more confident wearing them. Maybe that's good, maybe not ;-). One thing for sure, they provide full, wrap-around protection and the plastic snap buckles make them easy-on which promotes actually USING them!

edit: appears that they ARE made by Labonville - SHERRILLtree Premium Chainsaw Chaps

IMHO, a helmet with screen shield is indispensable. It is almost impossible to avoid getting a faceful of chips with the saw work I typically do. And my face is usually sweaty, so they "stick". Very annoying. The chips oftentimes include some poison ivy.

 

[RyeThomas]

I just wanted to add for me it has nothing to do with the size or the power of the saw. Contrary to what most believe I've had far more close calls with a small saw with a short bar than a larger one. It's easier to have a 14-16" bar turn and bite you than a 32", the 32" reminds you it's there and takes a long time to pivot around.
My 241c is far more dangerous than my 660/661/461. I always wear PPE but I generally cut too long and get tired and that's when the close calls become an issue. I've also had some close calls with my SuperSplit log splitter. I'd like to keep all my parts.

 

[ruffdog]

I have full wrap Stihl chaps and Husqvarna helmet. They are hot to wear in the summer but nice in cold weather. If you don't like breaking out in a sweat, don't watch this video of a lower leg accident in the ER. Yes, that is his jeans denim and chain pulled from inside his leg.
Catastrophic Chainsaw Accident Viewer Discretion Advised - YouTube

 

[erda]

I chose to not get the chaps, but pants instead. Thought that the chaps were too bulky and somewhat fiddley.

Denim Protective Pants - Chainsaw Protective Clothing | STIHL USA

 

[RyeThomas]

I like the chaps because when I'm covered head to toe with dirt and chips, a quick shirt change and pull off the chaps and my pants are clean enough to hop in the truck and ride home or stop if I need to. You can always bring a change of pants as well but let's just say I have a funny story about that, lol.

 

[dougtrr2]

After many years I finally bought some chaps and now "force" myself to wear them every time I use my chainsaw. The best thing I did was get a pair of suspenders for them. For me it makes them much easier to wear. This year I just got a helmet and face shield with ear protection. That was in response to a storm that took out 65 trees on my 9 acres. Knowing I would be dealing with a lot of tensioned cutting I wanted some extra protection. Some of what I am cutting is down, but still overhead. I have lost track of how many times I have thunked my helmet against a low hanging branch stub. Wouldn't have any serious injuries, just a bunch of bumps and scrapes on my forehead.

Doug in SW IA

 

[newbury]

Since this thread is straying a bit -
I've used the chaps when I knew I was going to have to go through thick thorny brambles with or without a chainsaw.