3-Point Hitch JD 3038E Rate of Drop valve

[bigslice0904]

I noticed that my rockshaft control lever has gotten harder to move forward/back. JD dealer mentioned I should look at the Rate of Drop valve to see if it needs adjusting (his fear was that there was too much pressure build up in the hydraulics). First question is: could it be hydraulic problems if that rockshaft control lever is harder to move, or could the lever be damaged? The 3-point hitch works fine - mower moves up and down as expected.

Secondly, I found the valve under the seat, but found that it can't be turned - it's frozen, as if rusted. I'm considering using a large pair of pliers to carefully break it loose, but was looking for other suggestions (I don't want to break the stem ). Also, if I succeed in getting it moved, is this valve supposed to turn a full 360 degrees, or is it limited in how far it can turn?

Thanks in advance,
Bryan

 

[s219]

I've had a couple of these valves seize up -- they always seem to have a way to catch water or something -- and soaking around the knob shaft with an oil penetrant for a couple days has got them loose with no other effort on my part. So if you have time, try to soak around the shaft for a few days or a week.

When the valve on my L3200 was frozen, I realized I probably had set it to wide open when the tractor was brand new and hadn't touched it in 4+ years.... Now, I try to remember to exercise the knob and hit the shaft with a shot of oil when doing periodic maintenance on my tractor.

 

[kennyd]

Have you tried lubricating the linkages?

 

[Spanner]

If your Rate of Drop valve hasn't move in so long a time that it has become stuck it's hardly likely to have 'suddenly' started to affect the movement of the Rockshaft Control lever. ?

How old is the tractor and how is it stored/maintained? Inside or outside storage? Covered/uncovered etc?

Valve is 'firm' to turn. Sort-of like the water tap on the outside of a house. Turns 2, maybe 3 turns from memory.

 

[bigslice0904]

If your Rate of Drop valve hasn't move in so long a time that it has become stuck it's hardly likely to have 'suddenly' started to affect the movement of the Rockshaft Control lever. ?

How old is the tractor and how is it stored/maintained? Inside or outside storage? Covered/uncovered etc?

Valve is 'firm' to turn. Sort-of like the water tap on the outside of a house. Turns 2, maybe 3 turns from memory.

Thanks everyone for responding.

Tractor is 2+ years old and is stored outside, uncovered. I didn't think the valve seizing up would suddenly affect the rockshaft lever either, but was going with what my dealer mentioned (basically, it was a 'quick' check - but it was the sales guy...so...).

I did take a wrench to it and was able to loosen it and turn it, although I'm not sure how far it's supposed to turn (a full 360 degrees or partial). In either case, it did not help with the stiffness in moving the rockshaft lever. I may hit it with some lubricant to see if it helps.

 

[bigslice0904]

I can hit it with some lubricant. Any suggestions on what to use?

 

[bigslice0904]

I've had a couple of these valves seize up -- they always seem to have a way to catch water or something -- and soaking around the knob shaft with an oil penetrant for a couple days has got them loose with no other effort on my part. So if you have time, try to soak around the shaft for a few days or a week.

When the valve on my L3200 was frozen, I realized I probably had set it to wide open when the tractor was brand new and hadn't touched it in 4+ years.... Now, I try to remember to exercise the knob and hit the shaft with a shot of oil when doing periodic maintenance on my tractor.

I did the same thing - didn't know it existed and when I found it (2 years later..), it was seized up. I will be diligently turning it to keep it loose, especially since I have it stored outside. Thanks for the reply.

 

[bigslice0904]

Have you tried lubricating the linkages?

I can hit it with some lubricant. Any suggestions on what to use?

 

[beenthere]

I'd hit it with a new penetrating oil called Blue Creeper. It is much better than Kroil, which is better than other penetrants. IMO

 

[kennyd]

I can hit it with some lubricant. Any suggestions on what to use?

My favorite is Fluid Film, it does not evaporate quickly like the others do.

 

[Spanner]

Two very interesting products as alternatives to the good ol' WD40 and CRC.

I'd hit it with a new penetrating oil called Blue Creeper. It is much better than Kroil, which is better than other penetrants. IMO

Never heard of this one but the fully synthetic aspect is attractive. Cool website where your mouse arrow becomes a bottle of product.

My favorite is Fluid Film, it does not evaporate quickly like the others do.

We have a local (From Australia) product (INOX) similar to FF, based upon Lanolin also. There are a lot of sheep in my country and Australia so we have a lot of Lanolin to use up.

Inox Supreme Lubricants - Inox Lubricants

CRC has been popular here for decades as has WD40.

 

[Wagtail]

I'll back Spanner on the Inox products. I liberally use a rattlecan of 'Lanox' lubricant on everything that moves on my tractor (that doesn't have a grease nipple)... not the whole can, mind you. Just a spritz here and a spritz there. :thumbsup:

I especially spray my PTO shaft with it prior to attaching.

 

[bigslice0904]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. This is a great forum - glad I found it.