Buying Advice Planning to buy used.... got some questions.

[Industrial Toys]

It's been discussed to death on here.

Cons of hydro

Noisy, makes heat, uses hp, not great for road travel or extended field use.

Pros

Infinite speed, easy to adjust power to vary load conditions, great inching capability, easy fw/bw operation.

 

[jeff9366]

Tractors discussed here, generally 60-horsepower and under, are 90% sold with HST transmissions.

Greatest transmission power as force begins to be applied to stationary tractor wheels = great pushing power.

Best tractor resale prices are with HST.


LINK: tractor hst vs shuttle - Google Search

 

[jeff9366]

Another major question is at what year did regeneration process engines come into play?
I prefer not to have one that has to regenerate.

2012 - 2013

 

[Piston]

A totally VALID concept!
Not followed by many here on TBN though.
The general consensus seems to be: buy new, get warranty, dealer 0% financing, etc.
You must be an old guy like me.

Hey now, I'm not old and I still follow your concept!

But seriously, that really is a very good point made by I.T.

I think you already know this, but remember that it is the implements and attachments that actually get work done. The tractor is just the engine that pulls/powers them. I'd love a 50k cab tractor but it's completely useless without implements.

Regarding HST, you would more than likely much prefer it over a geared tractor. Also, since your buying used, there are many more in this size range available, and since you'll likely not keep it forever, you will have much better resale.

I have more money in implements/attachments than I do in my tractor (which are also all used except for grapple) and now that I have the tools that actually do the work, I could eventually upgrade, but I think it's important to stress NOT to spend alll your money on the tractor, and keep some for the implements.

Regarding the ratchet rake, although it does increase productivity if all you have is a bucket, its completely unnecessary if you have a grapple.

 

[Drewintoledo]

I like this guys thought on used tractors at 1:20 and his idea on buying in general at 13:00. He states, "buy your second tractor first" not sure if this adds value to your hunt but it got me thinking a little bit. LS XG3025 Compact Utility Tractor Review - YouTube

 

[jeff9366]

I want something strong enough that I can cut trees down, cut them in half or thirds and drag them to the ditch I have in the back.

It is hazardous to drag tree trunks flat on the ground. It the dragged trunk encounters an obstruction the tractor can go vertical in one second. Ask me how I know.

Use a cross-drawbar, preferably in the form of a triangle, to elevate trunk butts six inches or so. Much safer and reduces friction of log against the ground by 50%.


LINKS(2): HANDI HITCH
SHORT BOOM POLE ADAPTER

 

[Industrial Toys]

Just to be clear. That drawbar arrangement can be dangerous as it can raise your pulling point and pull the tractor over backwards. It must only be used (in logging) to elevate the trunks AT the drawbar. Like a skidding winch would. I have used such a thing decades ago to pull a 3 spindle bush hog and have height adjustment, but never used it to pull something via cable or chain.

 

[J.Wal]

I 100% understand the idea of " buy your second tractor first! That's why I want no less than 32HP. Once the land is generally cleaned up... I will be mostly bush hogging with it. When trees do fall I will use the power of pushing, and the lift of a grapple to clean the tree up.

Will drag ( with a low lift point as stated by Industrial toys) to the area I plan to push it into.

Thanks for all the info fellas! I think gear to gear trans will be the way I go just to keep the strength.

 

[jeff9366]

It is hazardous to drag tree trunks flat on the ground. It the dragged trunk encounters an obstruction the tractor can go vertical in one second. Ask me how I know.

Use a cross-drawbar, preferably in the form of a triangle, to elevate trunk butts six inches or so. Much safer and reduces friction of log against the ground by 50%.

I got my subcompact Deere 750 completely vertical skidding logs flat on the ground. Released the seat belt and had a controlled fall to the ground. A co-worker and I then used another section of tractor chain to pull the Deere back down. Ka-wham, but no other problem. I KNOW THROUGH PERSONAL EXPERIENCE SKIDDING LOGS FLAT IS HAZARDOUS.

I am staying with this: Use a cross-drawbar, preferably in the form of a triangle, to elevate trunk butts six inches or so. Much safer and reduces friction of log against the ground by 50%.

 

[Piston]

I got my subcompact Deere 750 completely vertical skidding logs flat on the ground. Released the seat belt and had a controlled fall to the ground. A co-worker and I then used another section of tractor chain to pull the Deere back down. Ka-wham, but no other problem. I KNOW THROUGH PERSONAL EXPERIENCE SKIDDING LOGS FLAT IS HAZARDOUS.

I am staying with this: Use a cross-drawbar, preferably in the form of a triangle, to elevate trunk butts six inches or so. Much safer and reduces friction of log against the ground by 50%.

Did you have a front end loader and R4's on that tractor?