Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener

   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #21  
Not to try and start anything - but how does something like this compare to an electric Harbor Freight saw sharpener that can be had for $30?

I've heard that the adjustments & stops are vague on the HF and would think twice putting a $30 chain in a $30 grinder.
The TL was a little "salty" and I've been a hand filer for years. My trouble (for years) was over time hand filing I aparently always favored one side and by the time I had sharpened down 2/3rs or so of the cutter I had developed the hated round cut. Not to big a deal on 8-10" firewood logs but big trouble on a twenty incher. I thought I'd just use the TL to tune (or true up) after every 5 file sharpening's or after I dip into that hidden rock :eek:, but I use it every time now & I believe it actually is saving my chains rather than just 6-8 strokes on every tooth with a file.:drink:
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #23  
Yes replaced the carbide in July. They claim a minimum of 40+ chain sharpenings before replacement. I didn't count but that sounds about right based on my experience. The carbide cutter is around $20 so < $.50 per sharpening.

I'm still on the first stone that came with the 12v Granberg I bought last year, gone through 1 chain sofar with that stone, but I think the more rocks I hit the quicker the stone wares or chain or both. Also when I cut dirty wood I change the cutter angle to a straighter angle, more edge to cut through dirt, in theory anyways.......
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #24  
I picked up mine last summer and have about 5 chains I've ran through sharpening. I like it a lot.
The capability is there to sharpen out on the the wood site but I just sharpen a handful of chains on the bench and swap as i go in the woods. And a set of files for a quick dress during a gas/oil fill.

It seems to me the sharpened chain is sharper than a new one also.

One thing for those using the sharpener.

After I mount it per the instructions(which are kinda poor BTW) do you have to sharpen one set of teeth by turning the bit IN to the tooth from the outside?
Bad description I think. sorry...
I mount the block. then the bit goes in from the right side angled toward the back left. But when I do the opposite teeth, The bit won't go into the rear guide hole from back RH side to left front(towards me)
I don't have it with me but seems like it hits the bar with the crank handle.

I have to move the bit to the opposite side but it's pushing into the tooth from the outside opposite of the original direction.
Teeth seem equally sharp, but seems like I might be not doing that second side quite as intended by manufacturer.

Watch the video. There is another video that talks about how the front and back of the jig need to be the same distance from the chain. Of course if you check one cutter, then check the next cutter you are doing the same thing. You do need a tight chain and that middle knob can help keep the chain from flopping away.

I do find that sharpening micro chains on my Stihl MS210 or the pole saw require me to use just one of the stops. I just flop the one up that is the most in the way. I do not have that issue with bigger chains.
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #25  
I'm still on the first stone that came with the 12v Granberg I bought last year, gone through 1 chain sofar with that stone, but I think the more rocks I hit the quicker the stone wares or chain or both. Also when I cut dirty wood I change the cutter angle to a straighter angle, more edge to cut through dirt, in theory anyways.......

Yes there are many variables involved re longevity of chains and sharpeners.
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #26  
I am very happy with the Granberg 12v. You can run it off of a battery charger or a battery. I used to keep buying new chains for my chainsaw and now I have a bucket full of dull chains. I figure that I will never again need to buy a new chain as I can keep sharpening the one on the chainsaw over and over again, and if and when I can no longer do that, I will dip into my bucket and sharpen one of those. I like it and the chains end up super sharp - just like new. Fast and easy - once you learn the basics. $75
PRECISION GRINDER (12V) - G1�12XT - Granberg International
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #27  
I thought about this option. How do you ensure the 30 degree angle when you sharpen? I assume its not that important for most people and they just freehand it. My logic is simply that I want to make the chain last as long as i can so i dont want to under or over sharpen the angle. Additionally i will be sharing this with my father in law in which case he doesn't have as steady of a hand.

Many of my chains have a little angle mark on each tooth, so I just eyeball alignment with that. If no mark, I just eyeball anyway, using the existing grind as a guide. Plus, I do not believe that some slight variation in angle will make an appreciable difference.

With the saw on a solid surface, I get positioned in a good spot and then just "saw" the stone lightly back and forth on every other tooth. It's a motion kinda like with a pool cue. Get positioned once, and then stay there and advance the chain a few teeth at a time. Keeps the angle consistent all the way around for one set of tooth angle. Then reposition and do all the opposite angled teeth.
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener #28  
Thanks for this thread. I've been wanting a chain saw sharpener. Done it by hand all these years, I need this. Just figuring out which one. I'm leaning toward a non electric since I like to sharpen while in the woods.
 
   / Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Thanks for this thread. I've been wanting a chain saw sharpener. Done it by hand all these years, I need this. Just figuring out which one. I'm leaning toward a non electric since I like to sharpen while in the woods.

Right now I am choosing bw the Timberline we are discussing here and the PFERD CS-X 2 in 1 which is also made for Stihl. Glad to see everyone's thoughts on the timberline.
 

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