Need help with wiring on an Oliver Super 55

[Dave M7040]

My tractor has a 2 position key. Off and run. There is a starter button that goes to a relay on the starter.

I think I am going to take the voltage regulator off line. I will run a wire from the #1 post on the alt to the on position on the key. I will jump #2 post to the lug on the alt. I will run a wire from the alt lug to the ammeter, then to the starter. I will jump off the alternator main wire at the ammeter to the key switch. From the on position on the key switch to the starter button. I will add a second lead to the starter button with the on switch lead to the ballast resistor.

Should I run a jumper from the starter button on terminal to the coil? This would provide a full 12v to the coil when the button is pushed to engage the starter but it would cut the 12v to the coil when the button is released.

The starter button to the coil is great way to do it.

Re the alternator

I need to think more before commenting on alternator as the way you are proposing to connect it in my mind requires a specific light bulb in the wiring acting as an idiott light on the dash.

I dont think you can connect directly to the 12 V positive but need to check

Dave M7040

 

[Biglurr54]

What does the bulb do other then show that the system is working. Wouldn't the bulb just pass 12v through it to excite the alternator?

 

[LouNY]

I do believe that you will need a diode in the line for the alternator excitation or it will backfeed and the tractor will not shutoff

 

[buickanddeere]

I blew the PTO clutch out on my Oliver Super 55 when brush hogging. I split the tractor replaced the PTO clutch, some seals, and the pilot bearing while it was apart. I am putting it all back together and I am struggling with the wiring. It was converted to 12v neg ground at some point. The wiring was a rats nest and a mess. One wire shorted out and burnt other wires a while ago. Needless to say, its time to completely rewire it.
I am struggling at two places. One is the generator/alternator. It looks like a GM alternator. It has one lug for a heavy wire and then it has two wires on a plug. The one wire on the lug went to the ammeter. One wire on the plug goes to a small diode thing and then to a 4 wire voltage regulator. The other wire on the plug goes to another place on the voltage regulator. One other wire on the voltage regulator goes to the coil side of the resistor and the last wire on the regulator is a complete unknown to me. It seems like someone took the generator off and kept the voltage regulator. Where does the one unknown wire go for the voltage regulator? Do I need the voltage regulator if it is an alternator? I am wondering if who ever did the conversion kept the original voltage regulator and stepped it down to 6 volts through the resistor.
Could/Should I switch the old coil out with a new 12v coil and get rid of the resistor? Would that burn out my points?

Agri Services has some of the best wiring harnesses I have seen and used .

 

[Biglurr54]

Ok I am going to do the hook up this evening. I am thinking of keeping the external voltage regulator in play as that was how it was originally working for me. I just need to figure out where the wires went…. The regulator has 1 – 2 – 3 – 4 spades. 3-4 spades are wired to 1 and 2 spades on the Alternator. Regulator spade 1 went to the 6volt side of the resistor and I believe regulator spade 2 went to the 12v side of the resistor. Another lead came off the 6v side of the resistor to the coil and 12v from the ignition wire fed the 12v side of the resistor. Ill post a quick diagram.

 

[Biglurr54]

Also there is a diode on one of the wires coming from 1 or 2 spade from the alternator to the regulator. I don't recall which one.

 

[Dave M7040]

What does the bulb do other then show that the system is working. Wouldn't the bulb just pass 12v through it to excite the alternator?

How old is your Delco alternator? Using one with an internal voltage regulator is the way to go and these are available and cheap. Your wiring suggests you have one so old it has an external voltage regulator

In the early days with the Delco alternator, the design called for a special resistance wire incorporated within the wiring harness to minimize components to install during manufacturing.

In the field repair situation, mechanics, who grew up with generators, did not realize there was a special wire in the wiring harness so had great difficulty doing charging system repairs. The idiot light served as the resistance wire. It allowed enough current to flow to trigger the alternator ON but not so much as keep powering the ignition system and prevent the engine from stopping as has just been suggested could be dealt with using a diode. The bulb in the idiot light had certain current flow requirements and not just any bulb would work. People who are installing LED bulbs everywhere often find their charging system is no longer working as the LED bulb does not pass enough current to turn on the alternator

You turn the key to off but the engine rolls to a stop and as it does it continues to send power out the wire from the ignition switch and although the switch is off, any other thing like the ignition system on the same terminal on the key switch is powered and the engine continues to run with the key off.

For your goal of a running tractor and then sell, using a Delco one wire setup would be the simple way to go.

Instead of wires going from the alternator back to the ignition and dash, a simple jumper wire connects the large lug on the alternator to one of the small terminals. Right now I cannot remember which of the two is used but will look at old notes and post again.

Dave M7040

 

[Biglurr54]

I'm not sure I want to dive into a new alternator when what is there was working fine. I would rather wire it like it was and send it to its new home.

 

[Dave M7040]

I'm not sure I want to dive into a new alternator when what is there was working fine. I would rather wire it like it was and send it to its new home.

OK, at this point with my ignition resistor comments posted, I will move to other threads.

When others are giving you wiring advice for the alternator that was working but I assume no longer working, be certain they realize it is not an internally regulated alternator.

I am in my mid 70's and those old alternators had gone off the market when I was in my 20's so finding someone with extensive experience with the original DELCO design might be hard.

Best of luck

Dave M7040

 

[Biglurr54]

The alternator was working. I took the wiring off during a tractor split and now am trying to figure out how to put it all back.