3PH bushing question

[Z-Michigan]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8”) why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn’t CAT 1 (7/8”)?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture?

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

 

[jones6780]

Weld it. Not so much on the bushing but on the frame that holds the bushing. If the bushing ever wears out it would only take a side grinder to cut the weld and remove.

 

[mopardude318]

If your tractor 3ph is CAT 2 and your pin is CAT 2 (1 1/8”) why do you need a bushing? Are you sure the pin your using isn’t CAT 1 (7/8”)?? Sure looks like lots of daylight around pin in your first picture?

View attachment 528910

My Tractor is Cat 2, and my box blade is supposed to be Cat 2, I verified my pin is also Cat 2 which measures at 1 & 1/8". So why the bushing in my box blade? I think Z-Michigan brings up a good point. Those bushings MIGHT be an integral part of the implement.

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

Which also makes me believe that the box blade could be used on a Cat 3 tractor, with those bushings removed, a Cat 3 pin fits perfect. I could Loctite and stake, or a small tac weld the original bushing. But couldn't I also use these Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing?

 

[ovrszd]

It wasn't obvious to me at first but after staring for a minute I saw it: the bushings are not an adapter bushing (etc.) to change category size. They are an integral part of the implement, just how its manufacturer chose to make a smooth round hole in the draft arm connection plate. This method lets the implement manufacturer use (potentially) a better material with smoother finish, while only needing to drill a basic (not perfect and polished) hole in the plate where the bushing goes, because the higher quality bushing, permanently installed at the factory, provides the intended hole for attachment pins.

Look closely at the first photo, and near the top you'll see a hole with no pin, and a dark rim around it which is the bushing. Look at the second photo: on the right side you'll see a bushing in place correctly inside the plate, and on the left side you'll see the equivalent bushing rattling loose around the connecting pin, with a larger than intended hole in the implement's plate. This is what OP is talking about. The bushing has come loose and needs to be fixed in place to work properly. Which is why I suggest either Loctite or staking. I wouldn't suggest welding because it's overkill and it could affect the properties of either the bushing or the plate that the bushing goes into.

Yep. Gearmore would tell you they've done this to have a replaceable wear point. When I see these I think it's done to allow the manufacturer to use softer, less expensive steel to make the hitch points, then add a harder insert to prolong life. I'd tack weld them in place. Unless this implement is used commercially they'll never need replaced. And if they do, grind the tack weld off and drive them out.

 

[ovrszd]

My Tractor is Cat 2, and my box blade is supposed to be Cat 2, I verified my pin is also Cat 2 which measures at 1 & 1/8". So why the bushing in my box blade? I think Z-Michigan brings up a good point. Those bushings MIGHT be an integral part of the implement.



Which also makes me believe that the box blade could be used on a Cat 3 tractor, with those bushings removed, a Cat 3 pin fits perfect. I could Loctite and stake, or a small tac weld the original bushing. But couldn't I also use these Cat 3 to Cat 2 bushing?

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

 

[lostcreekranch]

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

Good idea. Most quick hitches lower mount accept CAT3 so you could just install a CAT 3 pin in your box blade hitch.

But, if you don’t want to buy quick hitch just get a few of the CAT 3 to CAT 2 bushings as suggested above.

 

[DieselBound]

My Tufline came with a stepped pin, similar to that in the picture posted by countrybumpkin, but I think (can't take a look at it right now and I cannot recall for certain) it has a shoulder on one end, like this one (but mine's a CAT2/CAT1):

SpeeCo Products

 

[mopardude318]

Yes, you can use those bushings. If you hitch/unhitch a lot you'll quickly get tired of another item to keep track of.

Not sure how many attachments you have, maybe consider a Quick Hitch.

Well..... all I have is my box blade at the moment. LOL. Hopefully a LPGS, and a flail mower, maybe an old school draw bar drag disc.

That Pat's system looks real nice. I like the simplicity of it.

I thank you all for the input. What I did real quick to try out was use the Cat 2-3 bushing one the outside mounts, then a Cat 2 shaft collar on the inside as a thick spacer to keep everything from moving around. Kinda spaced everything nice and equal. Seemed to work okay as I was scraping... There's about an 1/8" play on each side, is that adequate?

...should be okay, no...??

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The bushings are suppose to be pressed in, plain and simple. Either get it knurled by someone with a lathe and can knurl it or get an oversized bushing and press it in. Any bushing that just slips in is another wear point.

If you are considering Pat's, best to let me know, because your top link will need to be longer.

Actually if you are considering Pat's you may want to consider going with the European type quick hitch mounts as pictured. Draft link ends and top link end. They rotate on a ball so there is always full contact on the pin and hook end. The balls stay with each implement.

 

[mopardude318]

MtnViewRanch, They sure didn't slide in easy, they needed a good bit of force to go in! but I completely understand what you are saying, they need to be in there goodNtite! Although Pat's is cool, I'm not considering it, I did read about the need for a longer top link.

But what you have pictured there..thats neat...I dont know enough about it to switch over...any cons to that setup, sure looks interesting!