3PH bushing question

   / 3PH bushing question #21  
Well..... all I have is my box blade at the moment. LOL. Hopefully a LPGS, and a flail mower, maybe an old school draw bar drag disc.

That Pat's system looks real nice. I like the simplicity of it.

I thank you all for the input. What I did real quick to try out was use the Cat 2-3 bushing one the outside mounts, then a Cat 2 shaft collar on the inside as a thick spacer to keep everything from moving around. Kinda spaced everything nice and equal. Seemed to work okay as I was scraping... There's about an 1/8" play on each side, is that adequate?

IMG_1755.jpg


IMG_1756.jpg


...should be okay, no...??

Have you tried using the inner mounting tab? That looks like it can be used on a cat 2 or cat 3 tractor.
If you measure the widths does the outer mounting equal cat 3 width and the inner cat 2?
Also contributing to this is the angle of the arms in the outer location moved in they will be squared up more.
 
   / 3PH bushing question #22  
MtnViewRanch, They sure didn't slide in easy, they needed a good bit of force to go in! but I completely understand what you are saying, they need to be in there goodNtite! :) Although Pat's is cool, I'm not considering it, I did read about the need for a longer top link.

But what you have pictured there..thats neat...I dont know enough about it to switch over...any cons to that setup, sure looks interesting!

Well, I hope to complete my 75hp tractor change over this coming weekend and I have everything to get my 32hp changed over,:thumbsup: just need the time to get it done.

The down fall is with some implements that have clevis type mounts, the mounts sometimes have the pin location to close to the implement and the lower hooks will not fit without binding up some as the implement is raised and lowered.

I have sold a few complete sets of these and have had no negative feed back. Several top links with the hook ends to go along with the Pat's QH ends that people already had. :cool:
 
   / 3PH bushing question #23  
Well, I hope to complete my 75hp tractor change over this coming weekend and I have everything to get my 32hp changed over,:thumbsup: just need the time to get it done.

The down fall is with some implements that have clevis type mounts, the mounts sometimes have the pin location to close to the implement and the lower hooks will not fit without binding up some as the implement is raised and lowered.

I have sold a few complete sets of these and have had no negative feed back. Several top links with the hook ends to go along with the Pat's QH ends that people already had. :cool:

I have this type on my Branson 8050, it came that way. I stuck a regular style quick hitch on as I had one and was used to it. I have hydraulic top links so hooking up was not bad with the regular quick hitch except for getting the pto's connected with the hitch adding to the difficulty. Equipment that was not 3 pt but drawbar pulled the pto's are a pain with the quick hitch in the way. So I have pulled the quick hitch off and am using the factory or euro style as you are showing now. The lower arms are decent for hooking up using the ball and hook style, occasionally an implement doesn't have the clearance to back into with the pins and balls installed. I have a rear remote switch on my tractor for the lift arms which aids in hooking up, the hydraulic top link can be a royal pain to hook up as I have to get back into the cab to reach the control for the toplink adjust it and go back to the rear to try and connect it.
My conclusion is that depending how much of your equipment is 3 pt and or pto will decide which quick hitch style you prefer. I would go back to the regular style for the winter as the back blades are faster with it, but the other primary winter use is the pto for the generator and bundled up for cold and blowing weather the pto is a pain in the butt with the quick hitch installed.
So it is a toss up which way to go. But there is no question in my mind that either style is much better then neither.
 
 

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