I think a backhoe will tear that thing apart. Think twice before buying one. I have a CK2610 (same frame) and it's not built for backhoe work unless maybe you are lifting wood chunks onto the splitter deck.
Most likely you could find a well used mini X for the same money that you can beat the crap out of like it's supposed to be used.
Most guys with 3 point backhoes regret buying later on.
Regards, Fred
I agree up to a point. 3pt backhoes are notorious for being rough on small tractors but generally it's because people are trying to use them like large dedicated backhoes and they're not.
My suggestion would be to:
1) Really think long and hard about what you plan to do and decided if owning your own backhoe vs renting one for a short time would be the better option.
2) If you still want a backhoe then I would highly suggest going with sub-frame mounted model instead of a 3pt one (and still remember it's not the same as an industrial backhoe or Mini X)
Good question.. I'm not sure which way they quoted it. I would guess it was priced for the electric diverter off the FEL. Is it better to run a rear remote to the FEL?
That is the million dollar question of the ages.
You have 3 basic options to get hydraulics to the front of your tractor for a grapple or other implement
"3rd function" (which will never really be a *true* 3rd function on tractors this size)
Diverter
And longer hoses to existing rear remotes
The choice really boils down to 2 main factors - Comfort & Budget. What method "feels right" to you & what can you afford.
There are reams of information here and discussions on each type & the pros/cons so I'm just going to try to give a very simple highlights version.
3rd function will operate electrically from a rocker switch (or two independent buttons) mounted to the FEL control knob. One button / direction is open, the other is close. The actual valve is installed in series in your existing hydraulic system, typically between the loader valve and your rear remotes or 3pt system (depending on tractor set-up)
Right now the average price for a "turn key" system will be about $800 from a dealer, If you feel adventurous, you can probably source and build your own for 2/3 to 1/2 depending on how fancy you get. There is likewise a ton of information here to help you.
Diverter - think of it as a simple Y (in actuality it's more complex but it illustrates a concept). It is electrically operated by a single button either On or Off. Off the fluid flow takes it's "normal" path thru one branch of the Y and On it is "diverted" to the other branch for as long as you hold the button down. The diverter is installed between the loader valve and one of the existing functions (Curl/Dump is the most often used however some have used the Lift/Lower instead) and the control is provided by the existing loader valve / joystick. So in the curl/dump circuit - button off the stick moves the bucket like normal, Button on & the same motion of the stick is now opening / closing the grapple instead.
Again, turn key you're probably looking at about half the cost of a 3rd function & likewise if you chose to build it yourself you could get away much cheaper.
Lastly using existing rear remotes. In this case you simply have a set of long hoses that reach from front to back and plug into a set of your rear remotes and you would open/close the grapple by operating the rear remote control lever as normal, the downside is now you're moving between the loader joystick & the rear remote. Some folks have fabricated an extended lever on the remote to bring it into a better position.
This will be the cheapest of all options and one you could easily do yourself.
Again this is just a majorly simplified overview and I would urge you to do some searches here and read other threads on the subject before you made a decision.