Which grapple?

   / Which grapple? #91  
For the install on mu NX5510 I went out and bought some cheap 3/8" air hose. Garden hose was more expensive and it tended to be too big. Ran my hoses on the left side; also put in some disconnects at the loader attachment point (one day I'll put a real bulkhead in, but for now I've the hoses zip-tied). Just feed the hose until you figure you've got a good lay (free from obstruction) and then mark on the hose (mark at disconnect and then at desired full length out to the front of the loader arms (cross tube). I replicated the stress loop as found on the factory hose install on the other side of the loader mount.

Thanks, Sorry I didn't do a good job explaining in the original post. I already have a bulkhead I just need to go from it to the Grapple tee. You can see from the picture the Flat faced couplings point straight out from the bulkhead, I was thinking hoses from grapple might lay better if the Flat faced couplings were in a 90 degree position from how they are now ??
 

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   / Which grapple? #92  
OK, yeah... (sorry, I have a hard time keeping up with all the posts :eek:)

I've been pondering this point myself, whether to face the couplers straight out or at a 90. I am kind of leaning toward a straight-on mounting as that's the way the industrial stuff tends to be; figure how you're going to be exerting force via your arms and I think it makes more sense this way- a 90 means you're going to have to apply pressure across your body, laterally, rather than fore/aft, in-line with your body. Break-away couplers also require this in-line orientation/coupling: I can't really afford break-away couplers for my use (would have to switch to Ag couplers- I have flat-faced couplers, mixed). How the hoses lay as they come from the grapple is another issue: maybe just hold them to the grapple through a bend(s) point(s) via bungee cords.
 
   / Which grapple? #93  
OK, yeah... (sorry, I have a hard time keeping up with all the posts :eek:)

I've been pondering this point myself, whether to face the couplers straight out or at a 90. I am kind of leaning toward a straight-on mounting as that's the way the industrial stuff tends to be; figure how you're going to be exerting force via your arms and I think it makes more sense this way- a 90 means you're going to have to apply pressure across your body, laterally, rather than fore/aft, in-line with your body. Break-away couplers also require this in-line orientation/coupling: I can't really afford break-away couplers for my use (would have to switch to Ag couplers- I have flat-faced couplers, mixed). How the hoses lay as they come from the grapple is another issue: maybe just hold them to the grapple through a bend(s) point(s) via bungee cords.

Good points, "maybe just hold them to the grapple through a bend(s) point(s) via bungee cords." Yes I was thinking Once I mount the grapple on my tractor I will use the spare hoses from my backhoe to figure the correct length for my grapple and then drive up to my hydraulic shop and have them made up.
 
   / Which grapple? #94  
Even cheaper and more convenient than driving hours to a local hydraulic shop is to buy the hoses and fittings from Surplus Supply. It's easy to loop a 3/8" hydraulic hose to take up slack and secure the loop somewhere that it won't snag. I recall buying predetermined lengths of hose from Surplus Supply was about a third the cost of getting exact cut from my local hydraulic shop.

I had disconnects fitted so I could remove the loader on my first tractor. Expensive. Never used them as I rarely take the FEL off. If using the rear remotes and securing lines under the tractor with zipties, all you are saving is ten minutes of cutting zipties and another 15 to install new ones after you remount the loader. If I removed the loader regularly that might be a factor but most of us just never (or rarely) remove the loader.
 
   / Which grapple? #95  
Even cheaper and more convenient than driving hours to a local hydraulic shop is to buy the hoses and fittings from Surplus Supply. It's easy to loop a 3/8" hydraulic hose to take up slack and secure the loop somewhere that it won't snag. I recall buying predetermined lengths of hose from Surplus Supply was about a third the cost of getting exact cut from my local hydraulic shop.

I had disconnects fitted so I could remove the loader on my first tractor. Expensive. Never used them as I rarely take the FEL off. If using the rear remotes and securing lines under the tractor with zipties, all you are saving is ten minutes of cutting zipties and another 15 to install new ones after you remount the loader. If I removed the loader regularly that might be a factor but most of us just never (or rarely) remove the loader.

Good point But once I get the Grapple I will want to use it asap and driving to town will be faster than waiting for UPS to deliver the hoses. I did take a look at discount Hydraulics and prices didn't seem much difference that my local shop. This is the down side of me not getting my grapple from Travis. Which far is my only regret. As I ordered it Dec 2
 
   / Which grapple? #96  
Even cheaper and more convenient than driving hours to a local hydraulic shop is to buy the hoses and fittings from Surplus Supply. It's easy to loop a 3/8" hydraulic hose to take up slack and secure the loop somewhere that it won't snag. I recall buying predetermined lengths of hose from Surplus Supply was about a third the cost of getting exact cut from my local hydraulic shop.

I had disconnects fitted so I could remove the loader on my first tractor. Expensive. Never used them as I rarely take the FEL off. If using the rear remotes and securing lines under the tractor with zipties, all you are saving is ten minutes of cutting zipties and another 15 to install new ones after you remount the loader. If I removed the loader regularly that might be a factor but most of us just never (or rarely) remove the loader.

Now ya got me thinking I am going to check my stash of backhoe hydraulic hoes I just might have enough of the right size to cob together a rube goldburg temporary solution so I can use the grapple till I make a trip into town.
 
   / Which grapple? #97  
Now ya got me thinking I am going to check my stash of backhoe hydraulic hoes I just might have enough of the right size to cob together a rube goldburg temporary solution so I can use the grapple till I make a trip into town.

Your backhoe hoses might work fine. I had 1/2” hoses on my little CK20 TLB. Worked fine but HUGE overkill. 1/4” would work fine and most folks just use 3/8. Much easier to turn the 90 degree corners on the FEL post with more flexible hose.
 
   / Which grapple? #98  
I first tried Surplus Center and I either had to go with 48 in hoses and adapter fittings and then drive to hardware store for a short nipple and coupling to make up the difference in length.

I checked out Discount hydraulic hose and they were only 9 dollars more for custom hoses. I ended up going with Discount Hydraulics for a custom length hose and the correct ends for what I hope is a clean install (as long I measured correctly). Its to wet to do much till spring.
 
   / Which grapple? #99  
I first tried Surplus Center and I either had to go with 48 in hoses and adapter fittings and then drive to hardware store for a short nipple and coupling to make up the difference in length.

I checked out Discount hydraulic hose and they were only 9 dollars more for custom hoses. I ended up going with Discount Hydraulics for a custom length hose and the correct ends for what I hope is a clean install (as long I measured correctly). Its to wet to do much till spring.

Sounds like Discount Hydraulic Hose is a good deal. I haven't used them but will keep them in mind. What diameter hose did you end up using?
 
   / Which grapple? #100  
Sounds like Discount Hydraulic Hose is a good deal. I haven't used them but will keep them in mind. What diameter hose did you end up using?

3/8" They came in today I will pick them up tomorrow as it's raining and I can't use the tractor without making a mess in the wet ground.
 
 

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