Cab for the Kubota

KubotainNH · Nov 24, 2017

Nice, looks good. Power steering is a huge plus.

Is that jump point left bare? If so how about a rubber hose boot to go over it? I can see a wrench landing on that thing, seems stuff like that becomes a magnet for tools.

Do you have a thread on the hydro rebuild on the Zero Turn?

texasranger556 · Nov 29, 2017

How long until you add a front end loader...and then backhoe?

Looks like you already have the brush cleared for the new dog house

davedj1 · Dec 1, 2017

Looks good fatjay, a project to be proud of for sure! :thumbsup:
Where did you buy the orbital valve and how much if you don't mind sharing?
Thanks,
Dave

fatjay · Dec 30, 2017

davedj1 said:
Looks good fatjay, a project to be proud of for sure! :thumbsup:
Where did you buy the orbital valve and how much if you don't mind sharing?
Thanks,
Dave

Ebay, $40 + 12.40 shipping.

hydraulic valve log splitter | eBay

One port seems to have a slow leak, I'm going to try tightening it a bit more, I don't want to break it though. It's a very slow leak and only when the blower is up.

fatjay · Dec 30, 2017

KubotainNH said:
Nice, looks good. Power steering is a huge plus.

Is that jump point left bare? If so how about a rubber hose boot to go over it? I can see a wrench landing on that thing, seems stuff like that becomes a magnet for tools.

Do you have a thread on the hydro rebuild on the Zero Turn?

Kubota hydro rebuild. Learned a lot with this one. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/384864-kubota-zd21-hydro-rebuild.html?highlight=

The jump point normally has a little rubber boot, it was just off for the picture. And I needed to jump it, left the ignition on by mistake. That's when I added it.

texasranger556 · Dec 30, 2017

Keep in mind that valve isn't designed for power beyond. Don't dead end the 3 point or any downstream valves too often

fatjay · Dec 30, 2017

texasranger556 said:
Keep in mind that valve isn't designed for power beyond. Don't dead end the 3 point or any downstream valves too often

I did once or twice before I got used to it. It turns really fast, but now that I'm used to it hasn't happened since. Still, it works extremely well.

fatjay · Jan 1, 2018

Finally put the windows in and plumbed the heater core. Put a trailer light connector at the snowblower for easy disconnect of the wires. Started it and ran it for about 20 minutes, turned on the heater, and no heat. Reluctantly i grabbed the brass fittings, which should have been hot to the touch, but they were cold. I have to check to make sure the water is flowing, if the water pump is working. I have no idea. When I cut the bypass hose water came out, so it should be working. I'll disconnect a hose and crank it and see if any water comes out.

texasranger556 · Jan 2, 2018

Your heater is mounted pretty high. I've only installed a couple heaters and they were mounted low in the cab below the top of the radiator so you could work the bubbles out.

To stand any chance of flowing water to your heater core, first try with the heater sitting on the ground so you can get all the air out of the system. Even then, it probably won't work very well being up that high.