Cab for the Kubota

[fatjay]

I'll try dropping the heater core down below, but logically, I'm not sure why this would be a problem. The water pressure required should be nil since it's a closed system, water up and water down. At least after all the air is blown out.

I would think that the water pressure would be high enough, from my understanding it's a water pump, bypassing the thermostat before it's open, so it should contain a fair amount of pressure. I'm not certain though.

 

[texasranger556]

It may work fine once you get all the air out, I don't know for sure. Also make sure there is a thermostat installed. Do the radiator hoses get warm?

I've come across several used tractors that people have removed the thermostat entirely.

 

[fatjay]

I didn't feel the big hose but I'm assuming it's moving water since the water in the radiator does get warm. I'll take it apart and see if there's a thermostat, if there isn't that would explain why there's no water pressure in the bypass line, since there's no resistance on main line. Thermostat is $17, may just pick one up so it'll be here by the weekend assuming it's missing or failed open. Lows in the single digits for the foreseeable future anyway, but no snow to play in.

Also I have discovered I can't close my doors now that I have the door windows in, so I'll have to add a handle for that. My door latches are just a hole drilled through the door and frame, and shove an allen wrench through.

 

[TractorGuy]

May need one of these to get the heat working.

12V Electric Booster Pump Kit (SKU:SCP61)

 

[fatjay]

Turns out i just needed to let it run some more. Today's snow was only 4" but wind made it a bit heavier. Everything worked nicely, except i lost the pin to raise and lower the blower in the snow, so I had to dig through the snow to find it. Didn't want to pick it up in the blower.

Also found that I can't engage the blower in high speed, only low and medium. For tough areas I drug the blade and made a nice pile, then backed over it and scooped it up with the snowblower. New cutting blade on the bottom really helps. The spool valve i need to manually hold in float to have it float, but that's not that bad.

In high gear I was running with the blade, and if the load got to heavy I heard a clicking. I don't know what that was, but made me a bit nervous so I backed off a bit. With turf tires I found that speed is my friend with the blade, getting a running start was the best way especially up a hill.

All in all, it was a beast in the small snowfall. I need to seal up the gaps around my legs, though, wind got in there pretty easily and made for cold toes.

 

[ovrszd]

It's my belief that the hardest part of a project like this is the details. Wind blowing thru cracks is a party crasher.

 

[chim]

...........................I need to seal up the gaps around my legs, though, wind got in there pretty easily and made for cold toes.....................

My cab didn't have too many gaps, but the front wall took some extra work. I made the initial front (below the glass) from strips of the thick plastic material used for big doors on refrigerated rooms that forklifts drive through. They had gaps and the plastic yellowed after a while.

In the pictures is the current version made of Lexan. I coped it around the body, trying to leave a 3/8" +/- gap between the Lexan and the sheet metal. Then I got some closed cell foam gasket material with adhesive on one side and stuck it on the metal. The edge of the Lexan just touches the gasket and that worked well. The hardest part was between the floor and the back of the engine compartment. Much of it was easy enough to close off with cut-out pieces of flat Armaflex. The left side was a little challenging, but adding a small piece of U-bent stainless provided a place to fasten an end of the Lexan plus hold a larger piece of Armaflex. A quick fix could be as simple as stuffing gaps with pieces of Armaflex pipe insulation.

 

[fatjay]

Mine has no gaps at all except for the legs. I think some pond liner rubber is in order.

 

[ovrszd]

My cab didn't have too many gaps, but the front wall took some extra work. I made the initial front (below the glass) from strips of the thick plastic material used for big doors on refrigerated rooms that forklifts drive through. They had gaps and the plastic yellowed after a while.

In the pictures is the current version made of Lexan. I coped it around the body, trying to leave a 3/8" +/- gap between the Lexan and the sheet metal. Then I got some closed cell foam gasket material with adhesive on one side and stuck it on the metal. The edge of the Lexan just touches the gasket and that worked well. The hardest part was between the floor and the back of the engine compartment. Much of it was easy enough to close off with cut-out pieces of flat Armaflex. The left side was a little challenging, but adding a small piece of U-bent stainless provided a place to fasten an end of the Lexan plus hold a larger piece of Armaflex. A quick fix could be as simple as stuffing gaps with pieces of Armaflex pipe insulation.

I like that a LOT. Very nice work. Great visibility. Good job!!!!

 

[ovrszd]

Mine has no gaps at all except for the legs. I think some pond liner rubber is in order.

How did you seal the sides and the top around your hood?