Chain sharpening

[Gem99ultra]

For a Pro or heavy use log cutters, an electric sharpener would surely be most accurate and fast. But for my little bit of log cutting hand filing works for me. I do have a Dremel chain sharpener kit that came with my Dremel several years ago, but by the time it takes to put the kit on and take if off when finished, I've got my chainsaw chain sharpened and gone. Same for its use for the Dremel lawnmower blade sharpener attachment.

I do use the Husqvarna chain sharpening fixture which keeps the file angle correct and the rakes set properly. But for the electric systems... save those for the Pro's.

 

[ericm979]

I got an Oregon 410 bench sharpener last year. I use it on chains that have been hand sharpened many times. Mostly to even up the cutter lengths but also to correct angles that are a little off. Also most chains eventually get some teeth where the hard chrome on the top is a little chipped and it would take too long to cut the tooth back to 100% good chrome with a file. When there's more than a few or it doesn't seem that sharp after hand sharpening it's time to use the grinder.

I've yet to try square ground. The files are insanely expensive and I already know how to file and grind regular chain. If I cut a lot of big wood I'd be more inclined to try it.

 

[Einthewoods]

I got an Oregon 410 bench sharpener last year. I use it on chains that have been hand sharpened many times. Mostly to even up the cutter lengths but also to correct angles that are a little off. Also most chains eventually get some teeth where the hard chrome on the top is a little chipped and it would take too long to cut the tooth back to 100% good chrome with a file. When there's more than a few or it doesn't seem that sharp after hand sharpening it's time to use the grinder.

I've yet to try square ground. The files are insanely expensive and I already know how to file and grind regular chain. If I cut a lot of big wood I'd be more inclined to try it.

Thanks for the post. I have one in my wish list and have been hesitating on ordering it without first hearing from someone who has one. Sounds like you give it a thumbs up.

 

[ericm979]

It takes a little practice to get consistent results. There's a tiny bit of flex in the head so you need to hold the handle in a consistent way. They had some of the 500-series models on sale a while back and I can't help wondering if they're sturdier and flex less. But the 410 is far better than the HF model I played with in the store. The HF can probably be tuned and adjusted to work better than out of the box but I just wanted to get to work (and I found the 410 on sale).

If I was getting one for a shop I'd get a 500 series model but the 410's just fine for home use. Oregon has a video on you tube that helped me understand how it works.

 

[John_Mc]

The rule is grease it every time you use it or don't grease it at all. Some of the bars for Stihl and Dolmar/makita and maybe other brands don't even have the grease hole in the sprocket.

Isn't that basically what I said?

 

[RandyT]

Isn't that basically what I said?

John I was just repeating what Oregon tell their dealers.

 

[Shady oak]

I have a friend who cuts wood for a living. He used to file sharpen every other tank. He bought a Timbeline and loves it. I either file which I found isn't really that hard, if you keep up with the task. I also use the Dremel stones but no tool. Just try and stay lined up with the slash marks on top of the cutters.

 

[goeduck]

It takes a little practice to get consistent results. There's a tiny bit of flex in the head so you need to hold the handle in a consistent way. They had some of the 500-series models on sale a while back and I can't help wondering if they're sturdier and flex less. But the 410 is far better than the HF model I played with in the store. The HF can probably be tuned and adjusted to work better than out of the box but I just wanted to get to work (and I found the 410 on sale).

If I was getting one for a shop I'd get a 500 series model but the 410's just fine for home use. Oregon has a video on you tube that helped me understand how it works.

I have the 511 and like it. Maybe some flex but not that seems to be a problem. I have the pseudo diamond wheels. The 410 looks pretty good to me, much better than the HF model.

 

[BCmetalman]

I do a quick touch up file by hand after every tank of fuel. Works for me as I take two or three saws out each time I am cutting. Run 'til out of fuel then switch to the next saw. By the time I've run two saws out of fuel I need a break anyway, so fuel and sharpen up. Its nice having a sharp chain, takes less effort, cuts quicker too.

 

[Lem]

Remember that if your drags aren't to proper height or even lower on pine you will think that your chain is not sharp. I took the dremell to my drags and now the chain does the cutting without any pushing. No dust but shavings with a 142 husky or Poland of same size.