Chain sharpening

[Jstpssng]

I think chain sharpening is the new best oil thread. Or HST vs Gear thread.

At least it isn't about which is the best rifle for deer hunting. :laughing:

 

[Einthewoods]

My solution to keeping logs out of the dirt when cutting into firewood sized logs. Of course now that I have pallet forks for the tractor, not sure if I will use them to load this or just cut from the forks.

I love this rack though. Buck your trees into 8' lengths. The you get to stand up straight while cutting, it keeps the logs at the exact place for cutting them to the correct length and it keeps them pinned in a cage so they can't move while cutting.

 

[Jstpssng]

My solution to keeping logs out of the dirt when cutting into firewood sized logs. Of course now that I have pallet forks for the tractor, not sure if I will use them to load this or just cut from the forks.

I love this rack though. Buck your trees into 8' lengths. The you get to stand up straight while cutting, it keeps the logs at the exact place for cutting them to the correct length and it keeps them pinned in a cage so they can't move while cutting.

I've thought about building something similar to fit over my ATV trailer. I have a lot of small hardwood (2-3 inches), it would be nice to reduce the handling.

 

[John_Mc]

Also don't forget to grease your bar tip.

Not really necessary. Once you do grease it, you need to keep greasing it to push out accumulated dirt that becomes stuck in the grease. Most of the pros I know are in the "Never Grease It" camp. I'm not a pro, but I never grease, and I wear out a bar long before the sprocket in the tip fails.

 

[RandyT]

Not really necessary. Once you do grease it, you need to keep greasing it to push out accumulated dirt that becomes stuck in the grease. Most of the pros I know are in the "Never Grease It" camp. I'm not a pro, but I never grease, and I wear out a bar long before the sprocket in the tip fails.

The rule is grease it every time you use it or don't grease it at all. Some of the bars for Stihl and Dolmar/makita and maybe other brands don't even have the grease hole in the sprocket.

 

[woodlandfarms]

So my 2C. I live in the land of logging here in the PNW. Lots to learn from all the work around here. Most pro's walk with a mechanical file, and the stihl 2in1 is pretty popular. Pros are always putting and edge on the blade, and on a big big tree, they can sharpen acouple of times to get through (this is a quick, 3 pushes of the hand file). I think the guys might do it to rest but not look like they are resting to the boss, but logging is tough tough work especially in the hills we have. Anyway, a better blade (oregon or Stihl) wouldn't hurt. I use a Dremel to sharpen and have a harbor freight sharpener which is good enough for a homeowner bolted to a bench. I find I am now more happy with the dremel as I do not have to take the chain off. But sharpening a chain isn't super simple, you have to have the right angle, and you have to keep an eye on the whole chain (those nubs after the cutting tooth need to be kept in check). So once a year I used to take my chain to the local saw shop. Thought they had a fancy machine to sharpen my blades. Nope, they had a pro machine that was nearly identical to my harbor freight. Now I just do my own sharpening.

One other thing to keep in mind is why is your chain going dull. Dirt as mentioned kills a chain quick. Drag a log with your tractor, you just jammed dirt into it. Hit a part that is rotted out, more than likely you got some dirt there, run the tip into the ground, that will do it for you, for us Moss rots, turns do dirt, collects more dust in the summer, and then you cut through that layer and your saw blade is dull.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Now to go o the next question??

Do you prefer your chain ROUND or SQUARE sharpened?


David

 

[RandyT]

Most people will never see or even hear of square ground chain. Let alone having the capability to sharpen it when it gets dull. Oregon doesn't even have the files to sharpen square ground in their catalog, and definitely doesn't offer the sharpener for it. Silvey was the company that made most of the square ground electric sharpeners on the market, and they went out of business a couple years ago. There is another company that makes the sharpener, but it is still around a grand for the machine. Heck the square ground hand filing jig is over $200.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

I have a Oregon 510A for sharpening, love it will not go back to hand sharpening. Got it from a friend who did not use it because it would not do his harvester chain, he has a Silvey that does everything he needs done.

For a while you could get the Oregon square ground chain around here by the reel cheep and then when it got dull, you just round ground it and went that way, the pro chains are nice and hard. You get guys liking how some of the new chains are good at being filed until they are told that that means they are softer and not holding an edge, some of the Carlton and Home Depot chains are really getting bad. Nothing like some of the hard chrome Stihl chains.

Guess Simington down in Lakeview is the only one left for square ground chain.

Home of Simington Chain Grinder - Simington Chain Grinder

David

 

[Ford850]

I've hand filed for years and that works great for me, but I've been thinking of going with a better system. I've looked into those Stihl 2 in 1 sharpeners for awhile, and they look like the real deal. They are fairly priced from the dealers, easy to use, produce accurate sharpening while also keeping the depth gauges trimmed to the correct height. I plan to pick one up the next time I'm close to a Stihl dealer.

 

[Gem99ultra]

For a Pro or heavy use log cutters, an electric sharpener would surely be most accurate and fast. But for my little bit of log cutting hand filing works for me. I do have a Dremel chain sharpener kit that came with my Dremel several years ago, but by the time it takes to put the kit on and take if off when finished, I've got my chainsaw chain sharpened and gone. Same for its use for the Dremel lawnmower blade sharpener attachment.

I do use the Husqvarna chain sharpening fixture which keeps the file angle correct and the rakes set properly. But for the electric systems... save those for the Pro's.

 

[ericm979]

I got an Oregon 410 bench sharpener last year. I use it on chains that have been hand sharpened many times. Mostly to even up the cutter lengths but also to correct angles that are a little off. Also most chains eventually get some teeth where the hard chrome on the top is a little chipped and it would take too long to cut the tooth back to 100% good chrome with a file. When there's more than a few or it doesn't seem that sharp after hand sharpening it's time to use the grinder.

I've yet to try square ground. The files are insanely expensive and I already know how to file and grind regular chain. If I cut a lot of big wood I'd be more inclined to try it.

 

[Einthewoods]

I got an Oregon 410 bench sharpener last year. I use it on chains that have been hand sharpened many times. Mostly to even up the cutter lengths but also to correct angles that are a little off. Also most chains eventually get some teeth where the hard chrome on the top is a little chipped and it would take too long to cut the tooth back to 100% good chrome with a file. When there's more than a few or it doesn't seem that sharp after hand sharpening it's time to use the grinder.

I've yet to try square ground. The files are insanely expensive and I already know how to file and grind regular chain. If I cut a lot of big wood I'd be more inclined to try it.

Thanks for the post. I have one in my wish list and have been hesitating on ordering it without first hearing from someone who has one. Sounds like you give it a thumbs up.

 

[ericm979]

It takes a little practice to get consistent results. There's a tiny bit of flex in the head so you need to hold the handle in a consistent way. They had some of the 500-series models on sale a while back and I can't help wondering if they're sturdier and flex less. But the 410 is far better than the HF model I played with in the store. The HF can probably be tuned and adjusted to work better than out of the box but I just wanted to get to work (and I found the 410 on sale).

If I was getting one for a shop I'd get a 500 series model but the 410's just fine for home use. Oregon has a video on you tube that helped me understand how it works.

 

[John_Mc]

The rule is grease it every time you use it or don't grease it at all. Some of the bars for Stihl and Dolmar/makita and maybe other brands don't even have the grease hole in the sprocket.

Isn't that basically what I said?

 

[RandyT]

Isn't that basically what I said?

John I was just repeating what Oregon tell their dealers.

 

[Shady oak]

I have a friend who cuts wood for a living. He used to file sharpen every other tank. He bought a Timbeline and loves it. I either file which I found isn't really that hard, if you keep up with the task. I also use the Dremel stones but no tool. Just try and stay lined up with the slash marks on top of the cutters.

 

[goeduck]

It takes a little practice to get consistent results. There's a tiny bit of flex in the head so you need to hold the handle in a consistent way. They had some of the 500-series models on sale a while back and I can't help wondering if they're sturdier and flex less. But the 410 is far better than the HF model I played with in the store. The HF can probably be tuned and adjusted to work better than out of the box but I just wanted to get to work (and I found the 410 on sale).

If I was getting one for a shop I'd get a 500 series model but the 410's just fine for home use. Oregon has a video on you tube that helped me understand how it works.

I have the 511 and like it. Maybe some flex but not that seems to be a problem. I have the pseudo diamond wheels. The 410 looks pretty good to me, much better than the HF model.

 

[BCmetalman]

I do a quick touch up file by hand after every tank of fuel. Works for me as I take two or three saws out each time I am cutting. Run 'til out of fuel then switch to the next saw. By the time I've run two saws out of fuel I need a break anyway, so fuel and sharpen up. Its nice having a sharp chain, takes less effort, cuts quicker too.

 

[Lem]

Remember that if your drags aren't to proper height or even lower on pine you will think that your chain is not sharp. I took the dremell to my drags and now the chain does the cutting without any pushing. No dust but shavings with a 142 husky or Poland of same size.