Rear Blade Rear Blade Confusion vs. Kubota M7060 71 hp.

[Nova Scotia Canada]

I'm in my late 50's and have been running construction machinery since my mid 20's. I've learned a few things over the past 30 or so years; first: making mistakes is always cheaper when working for someone else: who's is paying for it. Second: the right machine can be destroyed by the wrong implement/attachment. Third: the wrong attachment/ implement can destroyed a good machine. I've been upgrading my farm tractors over the past 20 or so years and my back blades with each machine. Which is why I still own a 6 foot rear blade ( light duty) ; a 7 foot rear blade (Ford heavy duty), all kept from previous machines; but still used for various tasks; rather than sell them for next to nothing, I can still use them. I use these blades from grading road beds, to driveways, to A.T.V. trails. I grade wood roads to skating rinks; landscaping to snow removal. That being said: my dilemma. I just upgrade to a M7060 Kubota and wanted to buy a back blade with full hydraulics. I've contacted the local Land Pride and Woods Dealers. Where I live in Atlantic Canada options/selections are limit to the big two. After speaking to the local sales reps. of each company, I seem to have more questions about my purchase than answers: regarding, length, duty rating, weight vs, hp. What I've looked at so far and considering.
Through a local online web site (Kijiji). I was able to look at a Land Pride RD990 back blade in "like new condition": used twice. It was purchased "New" by a local snow mobile club 8 years ago; for $7000.00 Can. all taxes included. They are asking $3000.00 cash; as the blade was not suitable for grooming snow trails. According to Land pride it has an 80hp to 120hp. rating. It wasn't until I looked at the back-blade I realized the size of this unit (1481 lbs.). An amazing deal and blade; but, I think this blade will tear my new machine apart? Question One; Yes or no?. If I though my machine could handle this blade; without, short or long term damage: I'd buy it in a heart beat. Of course when I mentioned it to the sale guys you can imagine their response: NONE! Second scenario: I am also thinking about buying a Land Pride back blade. The two I'm looking at are the RBT 40 (96 & 108: 65 to 75hp. rating) and the RBT 45 (96 &108: 70 to 120 hp. rating). The price on the RBT 40-108 is $5000.00 Can. all taxes in. I am waiting for a price on the RBT45- 108; I thinking in the $6500. range. I would like to buy the RBT45-108 because of it's heavier construction features ( 4" main pin/ 1" pivot plate) over the RBT40 and the ability to grease pivot points and cover a bigger area. My confusion is; I have one salesman telling me the RBT 40 is more than enough blade for my machine and the RBT45-108 is an over kill and will hurt the machine in the long run. I have another salesman telling me not to buy the RBT45-108 blade; but, to buy the RBT45-96 as the extra weight in the RB-108 and [it's surface area-drag] will be too hard on my machine. He is telling me I should buy the RBT45-96 and I can use the "offset" feature when grading higher angles . Where my machine is 72 inches plus outside-dimension tire to tire; I don't see much grading area beyond the tires when grading on a 45% angle and I really don't want to have to grade using "Offsets". Where I am expecting to pay $5000.00 to $7000.00 for this blade, I want to get it right... the first time. So I welcome all opinions: Terry.

 

[KWentling]

Interested in your question for a couple of reasons. I'm contemplating downsizing from a 108 Hp 2wd tractor down to possibly the M7060 like you have. Before the 108 hp, I had a 65hp 2wd. I bought a Frontier 8' blade for that tractor that was rated for 80 hp if I recall correctly. That size worked well for that tractor but I was able to spring the frame where the blade tilts in the pivot frame. Being a fair welder and a machinist I rebuilt that area and had no more trouble. Used that blade on the bigger tractor that came next and could see I would destroy it if not careful. Sold that blade and bought a 10' Bison NVHL-300-XHD full hydraulic. Paid $5800 US in 2011 for it. Weighs in at just over 1600 lbs. It's a brute. Rated at 160 hp 2wd and 145 hp 4wd. Its weak point was the tail wheel mounting. I've broke it twice. I don't think there will be a third time. Also somehow broke the retaining bolt that holds the blade pivot cap. Its been upgraded also. Never broke anything on either tractors so I'd lean towards the heavier duty built blades. 10' is probably going to be too much for a 7060, so I'll be interested in what replies you get and what you end up with. To read this may lead you to believe I'm the guy that would destroy an anvil with a rubber hammer (and I know a couple of those guys), but really haven't torn much of anything else up equipment wise, and I'm older than you, and have been around the stuff since I was a kid on the farm.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

To start with, I don't think that you will tear your tractor apart if you get the used blade, but you will never be able to use that blade to it's capabilities and depending on what all you will be using it for, could actually be a hindrance for you IMO.

Several variables to consider.

How heavy is your tractor?
How aggressive do you want to be able to cut?
Are you grading virgin ground?

First off without actually seeing the conditions of the different things that you will be doing, all any of us can really do is get you an educated guess.

My initial feeling is to go with the RBT96. But if you have the tractor ballasted up to or over 10,000lbs, then the RBT108.

I have an RBT108. My tractor is 75hp and over 12,000lbs. If I happen to get to big of a bite or hit an immovable object under the surface I can be going side ways very quickly. This gets magnified a lot as the blade gets wider, (I use to have an 8' blade and this never happened to me) thus my recommendation against getting the 10' blade. Also keep in mind that there is a reason these bigger blades have a cat 2-3 hitch, to be used behind a cat 3 size tractor far more capable than the cat 2 machines.

With our cat 2 size machines, sometimes it's like the tale wagging the dog type of thing. I ended up with the RBT45108 series because it was the only cat 2 rear blade rated for over a 10,000lb machine and like you mentioned, could cover my tracks when angled a little more aggressively. Although I have found that I typically use the blade at a 35*-40* angle and vary rarely have it at 45*. But then I don't use it for snow, and that seems like it would be a good time to have it over at 45*.

I also highly recommend skid shoes and learn how to make use of your draft control. Makes for much better and easier grading. No tail wheel required once you get draft control dialed in. :thumbsup:

One last thing, again without knowing your exact situation and conditions, I highly recommend a top & tilt set. Makes it so you have hydraulic tilt capability with all your implements , not just your rear blade. Get the rear blade with a manual adjust blade tilt. My blade recommendation and to save some $$$ is to get the blade without any hydraulics or blade offset or angle adjusters at all, simply because of the tie rod cylinders. You can get welded cylinders which are typically better quality for less money than what LP charges for the tie rod units that they provide. You should be able to get the welded cylinders for about what LP charges for the manual adjusters alone.

But all of this may be to much of a hassle, then just get the std LP stuff and be happy. All the RBT series blades are very good units IMO.

Good luck with your decision.

 

[Nova Scotia Canada]

To start with, I don't think that you will tear your tractor apart if you get the used blade, but you will never be able to use that blade to it's capabilities and depending on what all you will be using it for, could actually be a hindrance for you IMO.

Several variables to consider.

How heavy is your tractor?
How aggressive do you want to be able to cut?
Are you grading virgin ground?

First off without actually seeing the conditions of the different things that you will be doing, all any of us can really do is get you an educated guess.

My initial feeling is to go with the RBT96. But if you have the tractor ballasted up to or over 10,000lbs, then the RBT108.

I have an RBT108. My tractor is 75hp and over 12,000lbs. If I happen to get to big of a bite or hit an immovable object under the surface I can be going side ways very quickly. This gets magnified a lot as the blade gets wider, (I use to have an 8' blade and this never happened to me) thus my recommendation against getting the 10' blade. Also keep in mind that there is a reason these bigger blades have a cat 2-3 hitch, to be used behind a cat 3 size tractor far more capable than the cat 2 machines.

With our cat 2 size machines, sometimes it's like the tale wagging the dog type of thing. I ended up with the RBT45108 series because it was the only cat 2 rear blade rated for over a 10,000lb machine and like you mentioned, could cover my tracks when angled a little more aggressively. Although I have found that I typically use the blade at a 35*-40* angle and vary rarely have it at 45*. But then I don't use it for snow, and that seems like it would be a good time to have it over at 45*.

I also highly recommend skid shoes and learn how to make use of your draft control. Makes for much better and easier grading. No tail wheel required once you get draft control dialed in. :thumbsup:

One last thing, again without knowing your exact situation and conditions, I highly recommend a top & tilt set. Makes it so you have hydraulic tilt capability with all your implements , not just your rear blade. Get the rear blade with a manual adjust blade tilt. My blade recommendation and to save some $$$ is to get the blade without any hydraulics or blade offset or angle adjusters at all, simply because of the tie rod cylinders. You can get welded cylinders which are typically better quality for less money than what LP charges for the tie rod units that they provide. You should be able to get the welded cylinders for about what LP charges for the manual adjusters alone.

But all of this may be to much of a hassle, then just get the std LP stuff and be happy. All the RBT series blades are very good units IMO.

Good luck with your decision.

MtnViewRanch; Brian, one of the reasons my purchase for a rear blade for this tractor has become a bit more complicated than necessary; is, over the past several months I've been reading posts on this site by a lot of members who are asking questions about attachments for their machines. Questions that most sales reps. themselves can't answer. Because of this site and some good Q&A's, I've been able to narrow down to a couple of units exactly what I want; but, don't want to buy a unit based on what the dealer has in stock or pushed to buy something because they can't what I want. Or buy something not suitable for the machine or type of work I'm doing. I don't want to over kill it or under size it, or turn good money into a bad decision. It's because of this site and contributors like yourself I have become a very informed tractor owner and buyer. Which is making very frustrating for the sale people who are not as informed as they should be. So just a just a little more info to share to help me finalize my decision: based on some queries you made. One: the weight of an M7060 (my machine)with loaded radial ag-tires with cast iron rims and an M-21 loader is approx-9500 lbs. Two: As far user/aggressiveness; as stated earlier, abusing tools gets expensive, so the machine will be used in a proper manner. Come spring I'm planning to purchase the "Creep Kit" for the transmission. Even with the 12/12-F-R transmission working in [low range], I have found this machine is still geared to high for heavy work conditions. Running this machine in a high RPM mode without low end torque/power is a recipe for some long term problems. In addition to compound more issues: the "Particulate filter system" requires high RPM to burn off the particulates (high temp. exhaust via high RPM's). Kubota has designed some built in auto safe systems to manage/maintain the filters; but, it also has some bypass features which could cost the uniformed owner an engine. Back to the "creeper ad-on/accessory". Most of us know the damage the consequences of engine wear (pumps, bearing etc.) when high RPM's is produced with out torque. The "Bull-Low" creeper kit , should be standard equipment. Third: soil conditions will range from virgin packed red fire clay to class "A" to class "C" compacted gravels. Again machine will be ran according to conditions: sensible. Just a few more facts to consider: The weight of the "used"
Woods RB990 (9ft.) blade is 1483lbs. The weight of the Land prides blades are: the RBT-4096= 848lbs. The RB40-108= 898lbs. The weight of Land Prides RBT-4596 is 1130lbs. and the Land Pride RBT-45108 =1166lbs. Both the LP RB-40 and the RB-45 extend approximately 64 inches back form the 3 point connection points. The "used" Woods RB 990 weights 317 lbs. more than Land Prides RBT-45108 unit. It must also be considered the lifting capacity of the 3 point hitch on the M7060 is 2300 kg's (approx. 5000 lbs) at lifting 3 point cat 2 pins and reduces the further "mass weight point " is from machine. Ex. at 24 inches from out from 3 point hitch connections: lifting capacity is 1800 kg's (approx. 2860 lbs.) according to Kubota spec. sheet. Although the Kubota spec. sheet can best determine the lifting capacity of the machine. It's the experienced tractor operator that can best advise me on what worked for them. So again...if Mtnviewmountain or anyone else can ad some advice to my query; it is greatly appreciated: Terry.

 

[disney]

Ex. at 24 inches from out from 3 point hitch connections: lifting capacity is 1800 kg's (approx. 2860 lbs.) ...

Someone made a typo, or got their math wrong. 1800kg is almost 4,000lb. I can not speak from any experience running a rear blade, but I would think you should not have too much trouble reselling the used blade if you find it really is too big for you. Again I can not speak from experience in this case, but would be looking hard the heavier duty, less expense blade.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have to apologize, I was thinking that the used blade was 10' wide. With your tractor being 9500lbs and the blade being 9', BUY the used blade ASAP. As Disney said, if the blade ends up being to much for the tractor you can always sell it. It's a super good price and well worth the slight chance that it is more than you want to deal with.

Pictures please once you get it.

 

[motownbrowne]

I'd buy that used blade. Personally, if it's too much for the machine, I'd cut 4-6" off each side.

Also, welcome aboard. Sounds like you've got some good stories and knowledge to share here. I hope you stick around. If you do though, I'd suggest breaking your blocks of text into paragraphs, like what Brian did in the post you quoted. It just makes it much easier for the rest of us to read. Thanks!

 

[mopardude318]

I'm in the same dilemma. I'm in the market for a real good rear blade to match up well with my M7060. I already have a good 1400 lb hydraulic box blade and with top N tilt I currently have, I've been learning how to use it at a faster rate than if I didn't have TnT.

I've never used a rear blade, so I am definitely weary of spending 5 to 6 grand for one. I hear the learning curve is longer??

I have my eye on a hydraulic adjustable GradeMax LPGS for the ease of use.

 

[KWentling]

Someone made a typo, or got their math wrong. 1800kg is almost 4,000lb. I can not speak from any experience running a rear blade, but I would think you should not have too much trouble reselling the used blade if you find it really is too big for you. Again I can not speak from experience in this case, but would be looking hard the heavier duty, less expense blade.

This is right out of the M7060 brochure. "Lift capacity at 24" behind lift point. 3307 lbs. (1500 kg.)" Do you have something saying otherwise? Question is for the OP.

 

[bspeedy]

I'd buy that used blade. Personally, if it's too much for the machine, I'd cut 4-6" off each side.

This what I was thinking. I've never owned an implement that was too durable or heavy duty.