I did buy the Woods RB990-2 RB. After a lot of research on this site and many phone calls (Woods Canada- Sales reps, Kubota- dealers, opinions on this site, etc.); I was able to make an informed decision. So many factors and variables to consider. The Woods RB990-2 blade is approx. 1485 lbs. loaded with tilt-angle- offset- hydraulic options (if my total weight isn't exact...it's close enough to give an informed opinion). For the size of my
M7060 tractor the ideal rear blade should ideally be in the 800 to 1000 pound range for optimal performance. The land pride RBT-45 would be the ideal marriage (70 -120hp. weight, blade length, etc.; unfortunately the price of a new one would have been almost twice the price I paid for the Woods 990-2. Where I had looked at so many lesser blades, ranging in prices from $400.00 Can. to $2000.00 Can. (Sub. approx. 25 to 30% less in U.S. dollars; again, exchange rate will vary) I made my decision for the following reasons.
The pro's and cons.
The Woods RB990-2 blade is best suited for a tractor with a hp. range of 85-125, and a weight range at least 10,000 #'s. The "total" weight with all accessories comes in about 10,000#'s. I have loaded tires, an M-21 loader, cast iron wheel weights, ultra- cab. Which means, with all the accessories on my tractor: it will pull this blade; fine grading not an issue; heavy grading conditional. So again I don't want to hurt the drive train system. 1400 #'s of blade with 4 or 5 hundred pounds of dirt, fire clay being dragged, is a lot of weight on the machine.
Like KWentling stated the lifting cap. of 3 point hitch is 1500kg (3300 #'s) so I knew my tractor would lift the blade. Here lye another issue with the M-7060. My tractor is a Cat 1-2; 3 point hitch system. The bigger blades designed like the 990 are min Cat.-2,3. Wood supplies a pin bushing to adapt to the smaller Cat 2. My point, the Cat.-2, three point hitch could be damaged if over worked. Although the tractor will bottom if over torqued; I don't like the fact their is a risk factor to hurt my machine (breaking mounts on 3 point hitch). Combine the fact the M-7060 base weight is approx. 5500lbs; but is loaded up to 10,000 #'s. So again, not a true 10.000 # machine.
Lastly on the neg side. the blade is 9 ft. wide. That's a lot of surface area to drag, pull, grade etc. over rough terrain. The problem is the M-7060 with Ag. tires measures 83 inches over all. To angle a shorter blade would not grade out side the tires. A blade that doesn't grade beyond the width of the back tire makes for too much work (blade offset or not).
Final decision. After working out all the pros and cons., here's how I made my decision. If I had a choice for two blades; for same used price in the same condition, as the one I bought: I would have taken a blade slightly smaller. The blade a bought second hand, was purchased by a snowmobile club here in Nova Scotia Canada. They bought it for grooming their trails in the summer time ( at a cost of $6800 Can.-plus taxes). Unfortunately for them their 55 hp tractor couldn't pull it. So it sat in a const. yard for the past 8 yrs. The condition is like new, minus some fading and a few [[surface]]rust spots. Where the blade is an over kill for my machine, I don't plan to kill my machine. Common sense...the rep for Woods in Ont. Can. told me you will never use that blade to it's full potential, but your tractor is big enough to work it. The same advice was given to me through several members on this site. Where I don't plan to use my tractor to it's full potential as I don't have any intention of abusing my machine: it's a good fit! I am a retired Coal miner, who owns a lot of property. I have all the time in the world to get my work done. Coming from an 1988- 1020 Massey Ferguson tractor; anything I do with this one is such a pleasure and so easy.
Working the blade it self has presented few issues. ex. In rough terrain; I have to use my four wheel drive. My 3 point hitch has a floating system where I pre-set grading depth, as to not take to much soil at once. Here is where I am able to adjust the size and weight of this back blade; to fit the size and power of my machine. Just pre-set the height of the blade. Which makes this 9 ft. blades; weight, length and hydraulic angle a "working pleasure". Again... common sense... I don't own a bulldozer, I have a farm tractor. When grading approx. 1500 feet of roadway and about 400 feet of drive way this blade will grade as the D.O.T. The is one section of road I do the use to take me about 10 hr's with my old tractor and my 6 ft. blade. I can di it now in less than 2 hrs. Complete. Where I could grade to about a two inch depth with the old set up. Not and issue to go 4 or 6 inches down over several passes. Where I would have to grade 2 or 3 times to keep weeds, stone, pot holes, wash out at bay, the work I did over a month ago, is still looking new.
In closing a can't adjust the blade to my tractor, [[[[[but I was able to adjust my tractor to the blade]]]]]. In a perfect world where money wasn't a consideration, I would buy a smaller blade ( Land Pride RBT 45 or similar competitors product). But for what I need I'm happy. Especially when drop that blade and It cuts!!! No bouncing or rolling over rocks humps or bumps it cuts. In rough terrain ( clearing stumps, old pasture land, etc.); I don't """heavy""""grade up hill, easier on the machine. Where I live in Nova Scotia their were three types of farms here...up the hill, down the hill and across the hill. So again...common sense... I hope my review and info helps. I know the info. from this site helped me to ask the correct questions to a lot of people: who are suppose to be in the know. thank-members. Terry. I will post a pick of the set-up: soon.
P.s. As I was reading my post I though of an other huge-pro!!! Something so unexpected and safe with this blade: """"""COUNTER BALANCE"""""". Like most of us on this site, we have been running machines for years. And every now and then we go to lift something with our loaders we screw up: by tilting the machine beyond a comfortable zone. For a host of reasons we will over loaded bucket, lift to high, get into a bad working grade, lift or dump to fast, etc.: it happens, no matter how careful we are. I can honestly say with the weight of the rear blade and it's length from the back of the machine (80 inches from 3 point hitch pins): working my M-21 loader (which is the heavier Kubota loader) is so safe. There hasn't been a situation in 300 hrs of machine time with this blade, where I felt I pushed the limits of my loader or my machine. That being said, I'm not foolish enough to through caution to the wind and have bumped a few things I wasn't planning to hit while working my machine in close quarters lol.
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