After reading this I went out and saw what you are referring to. Somehow I had overlooked that, in my hurry to get back to work. I measured my remaining cable today and have just 100' left on the spool from what was originally 230'.I have the Uniforest 35E (predecessor to the 35M). They must have changed the design. I did not have to lay the winch on it's back when I changed cable. I left it on the tractor, unwound the cable all the way, removed a small access panel/screen to unhook the cable from the drum. Threaded the new cable in and attached it, then spooled it back up.
One helpful trick: do not unroll the new cable I rigged up a pipe to act as an axle for the new roll, then pulled it off that as I wound it onto the winch drum. You want to wind with the existing curl of the cable. If you are standing near the left rear wheel of your tractor looking at the winch: picture it coming off the new roll counter clockwise as it winds onto the drum also counter clockwise. (It should look something like a cassette tape, wincing off one spook and onto the other. It should not make an "S" shape, as this will wind against the existing curl in the cable). Winding with the curl, rather than against it minimizes the cables tendency to self-unwind and make a bird's nest on your drum if there is no tension on the cable. (I hope that description was clear.)
When my front end comes up 3' off ground the blade on the winch stops the tractor from going any further, the rear wheel just dig holes.
As far changing cable being a pain, I thought Fransgard was the the worst till I did a few changes, before I had to unhook the hole winch from tractor and take off every part that would come off and still had a hard time to get the spool out, so's to make changing out cable easier. Or if not quick on the draw when the cable breaks near the winch, the rest of the cable will whine inside the winch and that's what happen to me last week, 36' went inside winch, enough to finish up if the cable didn't go inside.
Here's some pictures of the change, theres two 1/2" fine thread case hard bolts on both sides of that front winch frame marked in red, take off the one big nut and then those four bolts and the spool slides out, before the front frame was welded between the white lines. Had my son give me a hand.
View attachment 544468 View attachment 544469 View attachment 544470 View attachment 544471 View attachment 544484
You could be right about not going over backward, I was never about to try it. As soon as the front starts to come up I hit the clutch. You're picture brings back memories. I had a pre-2800 Fransgard that I rebuilt, worked the crap out of it and sold 10 years later. In the first few years that I had it I took the drum down to Brake Service and had the clutch side turned, replaced all 8 bearings and put new cable on it. The organic part of the clutch could be replaced, and while I never changed it I did need to reattach it with brass bolts as the rivets had rusted or broken. I also replaced the chain, although it really should have had new sprockets. Mine didn't have the block which you mention to hold the cable; instead it went into a piece attached to the drum, and worked similar to the cable end which we discussed earlier.
Another poster just pointed out to me that on my new one there is a window to access the spool, so changing won't be as bad as I thought.
I'm glad that I am not the only one who breaks cable; a couple years ago I picked up a very used Farmi down in Belfast which turned out to be way too heavy for my 275; yet the very first time that I used it I broke the cable. I took the winch off, leaned it up against a tree, put it on Craigslist and sold it for what I paid for it.