Camp house Build

[EddieWalker]

Looks nice. What was the reason for not using T&G for the subfloor?

Are you going to have plumbing in the building? Or did I just not see drain lines sticking out from the floor?

 

[joeu235]

Looks nice. What was the reason for not using T&G for the subfloor?

Are you going to have plumbing in the building? Or did I just not see drain lines sticking out from the floor?

BIL wants to clear coat the plywood floor as the final surface and T&G has an gap where they join. I was ready to block every joint (wasn't too excited about it) but we walked over and jumped on a plywood joint and didn't think the give was significant.

Since we can crawl underneath right now, we are going to put the plumbing drain lines in later. Hang them with strapping underneath the joists and go underground right at the building edge.

 

[joeu235]

Finished up the floor & walls.

 

[joeu235]

Most of the walls are complete. Going to work on it over a 3 day weekend in April and hopefully get the roof framed and sheathed.

 

[flingwing1969]

Brother in Laws and I are building a camp house. 20 x 40. No permits required but building it to last many years. Hoping to keep the material cost < $12K.

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I am envious of the "no permit required" conditions you live in. In CA one cannot pass wind without a permit for building a fence. The only thing we can build permit free is a 10x12 garden shed and only then if we don't disturb any soil in the process - if we dig holes for piers or posts, we have to get a grading permit and if we do that between October and May, we have to hire an engineering study and submit a wet-weather plan for approval. Oh, that little shed can have no electricity or water to it or it becomes a permit-required structure. On top of that, if this is your second outbuilding, you must apply for a $2000 administrative permit on top of the building permit and grading permit and engineering cost and wet-weather plan.

 

[joeu235]

Only permit required where we are is for a septic tank, which I think makes sense.

 

[Cord]

2 x 4 ledger is nailed every two inches plus joists are toe nailed. It will be fine.

Without doing the math, I'm quite confident you will not get sufficient shear capacity out of the nails. More than one floor has catastrophically failed because these fasteners were disregarded. I attached some reference material for your use:

LedgerLOK Deck Ledger Structural Wood Screw – Deck Ledger Board Fastener
Deck Ledger Bolting by the Code - Fine Homebuilding
Ledger-Bolting Requirements in the 212 IRC | Professional Deck Builder | Codes and Standards, Framing, Anchors, Building Codes

Second thing is that your posts have created a soft story. To prevent racking you will need to add some diagonal braces to laterally stabilize the "table legs" you have.

 

[flingwing1969]

Only permit required where we are is for a septic tank, which I think makes sense.

Absolutely!

 

[joeu235]

Without doing the math, I'm quite confident you will not get sufficient shear capacity out of the nails. More than one floor has catastrophically failed because these fasteners were disregarded. I attached some reference material for your use:

LedgerLOK Deck Ledger Structural Wood Screw – Deck Ledger Board Fastener
Deck Ledger Bolting by the Code - Fine Homebuilding
Ledger-Bolting Requirements in the 212 IRC | Professional Deck Builder | Codes and Standards, Framing, Anchors, Building Codes

Second thing is that your posts have created a soft story. To prevent racking you will need to add some diagonal braces to laterally stabilize the "table legs" you have.

According to the IRC, it appears to be correct to me.

 

[Cord]

Yes, but that section does not address the attachment of the ledger strips. The problem is not the use of the leger, but how it's being attached. Nails alone are not providing sufficient shear strength.

Deck Ledger Attachment Methods

Despite opinions to the contrary, the inspection requirements have come into existence to help prevent problems like this.

 

[tacboss]

Looks like a great project.
It would be very easy to go back and put lag screws in the floor joists at the support posts. I like using screws and lag screws to keep things tight and prevents the problem of nails working out and getting loose over time.
Also, putting some diagonal bracing on the "legs" would probably be a great idea. Also makes for something to attach "skirting" to later.

Looks like you are doing a great job and will have a nice hunting cabin where many fond memories will be made.

Looking forward to more updates.

 

[joeu235]

Continuing to make progress. Next up is sheathing, rigid insulatioun, and metal roof. Almost done with the big visually interesting stuff. Soon we will be working on the tedious electrical and plumbing.

 

[Wakey]

Man, those are million dollar trees.

Live Oak?

 

[joeu235]

Man, those are million dollar trees.

Live Oak?

Live Oak and Pecan. We are very lucky to have them.

 

[joeu235]

Sheathing is done. Man, if only we'd made it 6:12 instead ...

 

[jfh28]

yeh generally I consider 6/12 the steepest that can be "walked" of course guys that do it every day will walk much steeper......whats that pitch.....looks like 8 or 9?.......Jack

 

[joeu235]

It's 8:12. I can walk up it but not down. I wanted to install ZIP but my BOL didn't want the extra cost. Felt paper is going to be a major pain. I did a little research and looks like installing vertical is approved as long as the overlap is sufficient. I think that's what we are going to do.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Having that equipment is a lifesaver on some of that roofing and gable end work, it looks real nice.

 

[joeu235]

 

[joeu235]

Roof finished and house wrap installed. Just finished trimming out the soffits and fascia. Next up is siding.