Branson 3510i suddenly stops.

[Brucester]

LOL.. funny guy. I have tried to adjust it, but a gauge is the only way to know for sure. Auger holding up well.. Hmm..1st picture is inside your shop. 1st job I did with it, it cracked. It wasn't worth a 3 hr drive up and to get it welded or replaced and then 3 hrs back.









So it's doing ok since..

 

[Cougsfan]

What does that black thing on top of your auger do (with what looks like a hydraulic cylinder on it)?

 

[DavesTractor]

LOL.. funny guy. I have tried to adjust it, but a gauge is the only way to know for sure. Auger holding up well.. Hmm..1st picture is inside your shop. 1st job I did with it, it cracked. It wasn't worth a 3 hr drive up and to get it welded or replaced and then 3 hrs back.

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So it's doing ok since..

That's a shame that factory weld came loose. I agree it would not be worth driving 6 hours to have a half hour of welding done. The down force kit does apply quite a bit of force. But you don't have to use all the force all the time. You just need enough push to keep the bit doing it's job. But you know that. That weld should not have done that in any event. I'm sorry you have had this problem.

 

[scatterlandsfarms]

Issues happen welds break , part of life sounds to me like Dave does best he can with customer service , I wish he was my dealer

 

[Brucester]

What does that black thing on top of your auger do (with what looks like a hydraulic cylinder on it)?

It's a hydraulic cylinder. It's for putting up to 800 lbs of downforce on the auger tip.. Bought it from Dave's Tractor.

 

[Cougsfan]

It's a hydraulic cylinder. It's for putting up to 800 lbs of downforce on the auger tip.. Bought it from Dave's Tractor.

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

 

[DavesTractor]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

 

[Brucester]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

That's happened to me once.. It was stuck in the hole. I removed the bolt holding the auger on.. and got the tractor turned around and was yanking on it hard with a chain and the front loader. Reverse would have been nice.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

Yep.. it's tough on the tip and cutting edges, but gets it done. I was digging a trench around the outside of a big covered horse arena last year. and when I couldn't dig, I recruited some help. Hard pan isn't fun..

Good days and bad..
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View attachment 549352

 

[Brucester]

Ok. Never seen that before. Sounds like a neat feature. Sure explains why you wear out auger tips while mine have lasted for for years and years, even going through some fairly rocky ground. But I'll bet you can drill a post hole a lot quicker than I can in rocky ground. Getting that frame re-welded should be pretty easy to do.

Reminds me of when my neighbor's teen-aged son got carried away and screwed (just like a sheet metal screw) their 3 point auger into clean dirt all the way to the gear box. He had to dig the auger out by hand with a shovel, because the three point couldn't lift it and the pto doesn't reverse. Do you have to be careful not to do that with power assist?.

That's happened to me once.. It was stuck in the hole. I removed the bolt holding the auger on.. and got the tractor turned around and was yanking on it hard with a chain and the front loader. Reverse would have been nice.

A front mount hydraulic auger is a cool way to go. You get down pressure and you can reverse the auger. Expensive of course.

And yes, hydraulically forcing an auger into reluctant earth does wear tips fast. But it gets the job done. A lot of tips can be reversed to put the sharp edge out again and that helps get a little more life out of them. The other tips or cutting edges wear much faster than the inner ones. If you continue on with bad tips and force the auger into the ground, eventually the fighting gets worn down and the auger becomes sort of cone shaped, with the wide part at the top. Once that happens to much of a degree, the flighting needs rebuilt or the auger replaced. We see that on commercial augers where guys are running them on an excavator or skid-steer where they have a bunch of flow and down pressure....and multiple users that don't actually pay for the broken parts!

Yep.. it's tough on the tip and cutting edges, but gets it done. I was digging a trench around the outside of a big covered horse arena last year. and when I couldn't dig, I recruited some help. Hard pan isn't fun..

Good days and bad..

 

[Davebuckholts]

I have a 3510i. Bought it new almost 11 yrs ago. It's been my self employment ever since. This is the third time it's stopped on me. Very frustrating the first time.. So now I know to open the hood and remove the left engine cover and wiggle this plug. Well now it's not even making connection. I have replaced the factory fuel pump with an electric one.. so if the culprit wire makes a connection, I hear it. Well.. Without have the wiring schematic.. I'm guessing this large white wire is the problem. I don't know how to remove the metal plug\spade from the main plug so I can solder it and hope it fixes the intermittent issue.

View attachment 548134 View attachment 548133

So my 3510i just stopped cranking the other day. 226 hrs on the tractor. I checked the neutral safety switch, the clutch safety switch, and key switch.
Then I'm reading these forums to maybe find a wiring diagram and read this tidbit....
I go out to my tractor, jiggle this wire, and it cranks!
What is this wire connecting??