Tractor stalls with downward pressure on the loader

[nickmac45]

Skipmarcy, after looking through the parts diagrams I have a few follow up questions. Are the broken bolts you discussed the ones that attached the "rear end plate" to the engine block? I can't tell from the diagrams, but are these bolts behind the flywheel? If so, any room to get a box wrench between the flywheel and the plate to tighten them down?

To connect the engine block to the t-case, are there only the exterior visible bolts between the "rear plate" that tie into the t-case or am I missing something. I've pulled truck engines and transmissions before and assume the tractor is the same. The "rear plate" is throwing me off a little though. Trying to understand how the pieces go together so I know what I'm looking at on the tractor. Thanks.

 

[Ford850]

Nickmac45, Just to clarify... When you say it stalls with downward pressure to the loader, are you doing this while out of gear and standing still or while driving forward scooping a bucket load?

 

[CobyRupert]

Wonder if it would stall if it was trying to LIFT a very heavy object too?

If it stalls while trying to lift the front end with the "lift" cylinders, OP should also test if it stalls while trying to lift the front end with the "curl" cylinders. Won't that be telling.

That is, even if his valve or connectors were messed up, shouldn't system go into relief?

 

[nickmac45]

Nickmac45, Just to clarify... When you say it stalls with downward pressure to the loader, are you doing this while out of gear and standing still or while driving forward scooping a bucket load?

Either way it stalls. I'm hoping it's just a quick connect that didn't seat all the way together at my last service. One was very difficult to get appart and was rusted together pretty good. Took several soaks of penetrating oil and working it back and forth with a pair of vise grips to get it off. Thought I had it cleaned up pretty good because it seemed to go back together, although I really had to work at it. Not the typical snap you would accustom to, but again took plenty of work to push it all in and get the locking sleeve to come back forward. Tractor lives on the ranch, so next time I go out I'll take a new quick connect and replace the troublesome one.

Regarding the bouncy front end, I'm hopeful it's loose front end loader mounting bolts. I'll check all those and give them a good torque. Transmission shifts fine and no noises.

 

[CobyRupert]

If it turns out to be a quick connect problem that is preventing flow, and you get flow going again so tractor doesn't stall and can raise and lift FEL: Don't you still have a pressure relief problem?

 

[dickfoster]

Either way it stalls. I'm hoping it's just a quick connect that didn't seat all the way together at my last service. One was very difficult to get appart and was rusted together pretty good. Took several soaks of penetrating oil and working it back and forth with a pair of vise grips to get it off. Thought I had it cleaned up pretty good because it seemed to go back together, although I really had to work at it. Not the typical snap you would accustom to, but again took plenty of work to push it all in and get the locking sleeve to come back forward. Tractor lives on the ranch, so next time I go out I'll take a new quick connect and replace the troublesome one.

Regarding the bouncy front end, I'm hopeful it's loose front end loader mounting bolts. I'll check all those and give them a good torque. Transmission shifts fine and no noises.

You might try some prevention that I used on my rockcrawler. When I installed a steering assist cylinder on the tierod I put quick comments in the hydraulic lines of case the cylinder ever found a rock. As they are under the truck and to keep them from getting packed with mud etc. I wrapped them with heavy electrical tape.

 

[nickmac45]

If it turns out to be a quick connect problem that is preventing flow, and you get flow going again so tractor doesn't stall and can raise and lift FEL: Don't you still have a pressure relief problem?

From what others have posted, the (hopefully) bad quick connect could be the culprit not allowing they system to go to the bypass for pressure relief. Everything worked fine previously, but I guess most things do until they fail.

 

[CobyRupert]

Even if you had nothing connected to the quick connectors and worked the valve, the system should go into bypass.
Even if connectors get it “working” I don’t think it’s fixed.
The good thing is the tractor stalls instead of busting lines.

 

[skipmarcy]

Skipmarcy, after looking through the parts diagrams I have a few follow up questions. Are the broken bolts you discussed the ones that attached the "rear end plate" to the engine block? I can't tell from the diagrams, but are these bolts behind the flywheel? If so, any room to get a box wrench between the flywheel and the plate to tighten them down?

To connect the engine block to the t-case, are there only the exterior visible bolts between the "rear plate" that tie into the t-case or am I missing something. I've pulled truck engines and transmissions before and assume the tractor is the same. The "rear plate" is throwing me off a little though. Trying to understand how the pieces go together so I know what I'm looking at on the tractor. Thanks.

Yes, if you have the daedong A200 engine in a TYM built 4110, that flat, thick plate connects the engine to the front trans and the bolts ARE behind the flywheel with no lock washers, no Loctite - nothing. You cannot get to some of them without removing the flywheel. I used new bolts and Loctite. Several had snapped already and really ground a number on the starter nosecone when I tried to pick something up with the FEL. I got off the tractor and worked the FEL and watched the flex at the engine/plate junction. It is quite possible yours is flexing a bit more and the flywheel getting seized against something to kill the engine. I would definitely check it out.

Yes, all of the bolts are external that connect the plate to the trans. I did my original split as described in the Mahindra manual but in subsequent splits over the years for clutch work I saved a little time doing a few things a little differently. Don't forget to put a wedge of wood on each side between the axle & engine/frame before splitting to keep it from rocking back & forth ! I had the rear half on jack stands and the front axle/engine on the jack.

 

[nickmac45]

Yes, if you have the daedong A200 engine in a TYM built 4110, that flat, thick plate connects the engine to the front trans and the bolts ARE behind the flywheel with no lock washers, no Loctite - nothing. You cannot get to some of them without removing the flywheel. I used new bolts and Loctite. Several had snapped already and really ground a number on the starter nosecone when I tried to pick something up with the FEL. I got off the tractor and worked the FEL and watched the flex at the engine/plate junction. It is quite possible yours is flexing a bit more and the flywheel getting seized against something to kill the engine. I would definitely check it out.

Yes, all of the bolts are external that connect the plate to the trans. I did my original split as described in the Mahindra manual but in subsequent splits over the years for clutch work I saved a little time doing a few things a little differently. Don't forget to put a wedge of wood on each side between the axle & engine/frame before splitting to keep it from rocking back & forth ! I had the rear half on jack stands and the front axle/engine on the jack.

Yup, that’s the engine I have. I’ll give it a good look. Thanks for the info!