600' water line suggestions

LouNY · Apr 25, 2018

A 3/4 meter installed in a 2"pipe will behave much like an orifice plate the velocity will increase thru the reduction and it will create a pressure drop at that point, after that the flow restriction will be the pipe friction. That type of set up will flow much more then 600' of 1"or 1 1/4" would.

murph1 · Apr 25, 2018

Richard Meters here are on wifi so they just have to drive by and record

Cat_Driver · Apr 25, 2018

I know you think you need a straight run, but in reality you don't. If I was going to do the run I would put water hydrants as often as you can afford it.
Think fires. I would put a fire fighting station 1/3, 1/3 and 1/3 of the way down the drive. Use sonnotubes run the pipe from underground to the top of the sonnotube
top it off with a 2" fire hydrant. It wouldn't hurt to have a 3/4" garden hose also at that station.

This is what I did, when I ran 4,000 feet around my property. I dropped fire hydrants every 300' - 500'. Helped when I did a brush burn, I was able to watch the fire with a
2" fire hose t keep it in check.

Doing it this was it solves your "LONG RUN" problems, and it give you a little piece of mind if a fire is header your way.

fried1765 · Apr 25, 2018

The 2" x 1" x 2" fitting I suggested would be a tee!
I was not suggesting a reducer.
2" connection along the main line, with the 3rd outlet of the "T" at 1", to accommodate a yard hydrant.
No reducing involved

RNeumann · Apr 25, 2018

The word that this discussion is looking for is friction loss. The static pressure would be consistent no matter pipe size. However, when flowing, and depending on GPM, the friction loss decreases pressure over distance and fittings. 2” would ensure a typical house could have irrigation and normal house hold task occur without seeing noticeable drops in pressure.
The local utility would obviously know the pressure at the meter and would recommend the pipe size. If it’s say 50psi a 10 psi drop would be terrible for showing, irrigation etc. Conversely, at say 200psi a small line could be run with a pressure reducer at the house.
Bottom line- without doing friction loss calcs it’s simply someone’s SWAG to say the pipe is the wrong size. Trust your utility!
The other reason to upsize would be to have a very minor affect on freeze prevention. A larger line would take a little more time to freeze solid.

dragoneggs · Apr 25, 2018

fried1765 said:
The 2" x 1" x 2" fitting I suggested would be a tee!
I was not suggesting a reducer.
2" connection along the main line, with the 3rd outlet of the "T" at 1", to accommodate a yard hydrant.
No reducing involved

Ah... sincere apologies. Didn’t read carefully your post. 2” does seem a bit excessive but I’m one to error on providing future capacity as years of experience has beaten it in to my head. Pay a little more now and save big time on headaches later.

I’m for commercial frost free risers throughout the property if you can swing it.

ovrszd · Apr 26, 2018

bunyip said:
Most meters here are on the front fence line to facilitate easy and fast reading by different meter readers who are not familiar with the areas in which they are working.
It was an unusual logical move made by Government when they controlled the water.

Yep, same here.

ovrszd · Apr 26, 2018

murph1 said:
Richard Meters here are on wifi so they just have to drive by and record

Our rural system is that way too. Public right of way access to the meter is desired to have control if service needs disconnected.

ovrszd · Apr 26, 2018

RNeumann said:
The word that this discussion is looking for is friction loss. The static pressure would be consistent no matter pipe size. However, when flowing, and depending on GPM, the friction loss decreases pressure over distance and fittings. 2” would ensure a typical house could have irrigation and normal house hold task occur without seeing noticeable drops in pressure.
The local utility would obviously know the pressure at the meter and would recommend the pipe size. If it’s say 50psi a 10 psi drop would be terrible for showing, irrigation etc. Conversely, at say 200psi a small line could be run with a pressure reducer at the house.
Bottom line- without doing friction loss calcs it’s simply someone’s SWAG to say the pipe is the wrong size. Trust your utility!
The other reason to upsize would be to have a very minor affect on freeze prevention. A larger line would take a little more time to freeze solid.

I agree. We still don't know static pressure offered at the utility line. If it's marginal the utility would want him to use a larger line to minimize the friction loss.

In my world static pressure isn't a problem and a 600' run will work with a smaller pipe.

Go with the professionals suggestions, including their coupler suggestions.