Anyone seen this kind of rotary mower before?

[Fastball]

Does anyone know anything about these rotary cutters? Do they look familiar? I know nothing about them except they are Chinese and imported over here and sold under a variety of names. I do not even have specs on it yet.
Been looking for a decently priced unit- and all the new, brand name ones are the better part of 2K in Canada.
I have 2 acres of grass/weed/scrub to keep short...but i also have two acres of fist-sized rocks that play havoc with my finish mower blades. The place here USED to be a nice lawn (hence the finish mower) but itç—´ gotten pretty overgrown. I thought a cheap rotary mower might suffice since I am not really hacking down shrubs and saplings.
Thoughts?

 

[leonz]

Spend your money on a Caroni rough cut flail mower.
If that rotary cutter in the picture is a 5 footer you should look at the TM1900 with the two row flail mower rotor you will be better off and not shoot any rock missiles.

 

[Fastball]

Spend your money on a Caroni rough cut flail mower.
If that rotary cutter in the picture is a 5 footer you should look at the TM1900 with the two row flail mower rotor you will be better off and not shoot any rock missiles.

Is a 5 footer, yes. Caroni flail mowers start at about 3K here....a bit dear for my taste for what I need.
Just wondering if this model looked like a generic Chinese mower - and if anyone had any experience with them. I知 only on this property for 5-odd years...so Indo not need something my grandchildren can use,...if you know what I am saying.

 

[TractorGuy]

Sorry do not recognize or have any experience with that unit. I wouldn't recommend mowing rocky ground with anything. Rocks become dangerous projectiles.

Sounds like you need some kind of rock sieve. I would see if anybody in your area could remove the rocks and grade the land out for you then carry on with the finish mower.

 

[Fastball]

Sorry do not recognize or have any experience with that unit. I wouldn't recommend mowing rocky ground with anything. Rocks become dangerous projectiles.

Sounds like you need some kind of rock sieve. I would see if anybody in your area could remove the rocks and grade the land out for you then carry on with the finish mower.

I may have overstated the rock issue. It痴 s just not a gorgeous lawn anymore like it used to be - as it痴 mostly bumpy ground with tufts of grass, weeds, scrub, mole hills and assorted normal ground stuff. The finish mower does not like the uneven surface as much as the former manicured thick lawn grass.

 

[AWSubie]

If it fits your budget, go for it. Rotary cutters are pretty simple machines that repair easily with flat plate and welding. If the gearbox gives out it is pretty easy to find replacements without having to go through the original equipment manufacturer.

 

[BMan2005]

If it fits your budget, go for it. Rotary cutters are pretty simple machines that repair easily with flat plate and welding. If the gearbox gives out it is pretty easy to find replacements without having to go through the original equipment manufacturer.

Adding to this most all gear boxes are from China anyhow on all rotary cutter. I have a cheap LMC clipper 400 (48") originally bought with our 32hp kubota l3000 that has had the snot beat out of it and still mows today, 16 years later. It's had some patch welding, but that mower is sold as light duty for grass only. So if it's just weeds and grass I'm sure it'll last you a long time. If that's what is in your budget, buy it.

 

[rScotty]

Does anyone know anything about these rotary cutters? Do they look familiar? I know nothing about them except they are Chinese and imported over here and sold under a variety of names. I do not even have specs on it yet.
Been looking for a decently priced unit- and all the new, brand name ones are the better part of 2K in Canada.
I have 2 acres of grass/weed/scrub to keep short...but i also have two acres of fist-sized rocks that play havoc with my finish mower blades. The place here USED to be a nice lawn (hence the finish mower) but itç—´ gotten pretty overgrown. I thought a cheap rotary mower might suffice since I am not really hacking down shrubs and saplings.
Thoughts?

Around here most everyone uses a Woods Dixie Cutter model M5. Lasts forever. Beatup used ones are $500, nicer ones $750.
They do NOT do what I would call a finish mowing job. More like a pasture mow. They might do better if the blade was sharpened, though I've never heard of it being done. On the other hand, that heavy blade isn't much hurt by rocks and wire.

Their rock throwing ability is over-rated. Even that heavy M5 pulled behind the old JD ag tractor & running at a full 540 RPM won't throw your larger fist sized rock much more than 100 feet with any velocity. Not that you would want to stand around & catch it... And I'll admit the noise is kinda off-putting when it tags one. Of course if it gets hold of a golf ball just right it will pitch it a long ways.
YMMV,
rScotty

 

[WranglerX]

I have been looking at rotaries in 48 inch size and anything around $1200 (USD) seems to be from China, in fact they all seem to look like they came from same factory just painted a specific color for whatever company is selling it (red, yellow, green, orange).....

Quality of cut seems to be, 1> sharp blades, yes it seems sharpening them can be done, several references to it in various forum. 2> Front edge of mower needs to be a sligh bit lower than rear edge (1/4 to 3/4 inch) to improve cut quality... And Check Chains or Stay Chains to be able to set cutter at desired height each time you raise/lower it if you tractor does not have a specific "stop" arrangement on 3PH...

Suggest you look at a few of "Tractor Mike" videos on Youtube, he seems to impart a lot of good (but sort of generic) information of cutters and other stuff...

Dale

 

[DieselBound]

Find a good quality USED rotary. Make sure you get one with a floating top link (makes all the difference in the world) and is quick hitch able (very easy to hook up to just standard link arms- my B7800 has crappy link arms). There's very few things to go wrong/bad with a rotary, and inspecting a used one is pretty easy.

Last year I bought a used LandPride 1860 (5') for my B7800 (replacing an old Rankin- it didn't have a floating top link and it didn't have quick hitch connects). Blades were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Cost me a total of $800 (and off of Craigslist meant there wasn't any sales tax).

I paid $800 for a severely used Bush Hog 286 for my NX5510. Had to have the rear tail wheel welded and get a new PTO shaft. This thing is a monster (over 1,000 lbs). I use it to clear heavy brush, which may have lots of wood debris (one area had old car stuff in it and I found many a part with my first rotary!). Also use it to cut lots of grass, which it does VERY well. One day, however, I'd like to have a flail for just grass.: I may end up getting a smaller one for the B7800 and have it dedicated for mowing around the house (sell the Landpride). I wouldn't want to utilize a flail unless I had good, established pasture, as brush and debris is going to dull blades fairly quickly (WAY quicker than blades on rotaries, which really don't need sharpening); there's also the issue of needing to grease them more often and to monitor belts.