3-Point Hitch broken anti-sway bar slot arms - what to do?

[RickB]

Actually I think there's a problem in the 3pt geometry... I think they could have been getting compressed and bent due to being too short when the lift arms are all the way up.

I had the bars welded up today and put them back on and then worked with them a little while I had the box blade on the back. I'm going to cut them down again and re-weld OR switch to chains.

-Luke

In order for any stabilizer to work throughout the hitch's range of motion, the anchor pivot for the tractor end of the bar (or chain) has to be exactly in line with the pin that mounts the draft link to the tractor.

 

[Tlr2]

Dave,

I wanted to ask you a question about a broken anti sway bar for the 3 point. I purchased my 3016 last October and recently discovered the the left hand sway bar had broken off at the last hole just as was in this case. I took the part to my local Mahindra dealership and they originally told me that the part would be covered under warranty as it was les then 2 years old. However after checking with Mahindra the rep informed them they would not cover the sway bar under warranty as it usually breaks because of user fault and they recemmended that my dealer not even submit the claim because it would be denied.

What I wanted to ask you, is there an aftermarket part or generic replacement sway bar that I can purchase somwhere failry easily? Unfortunately in my case I can not weld back together as half the part is located anywhere on my 6 acre field. I have attempted to find it several times without luck. My dealer is telling me I the replacement swaybar kit will cost $300 to order which seems like a rediculous amount of money to spend on part that looks like it would cost less then $50 to manufacture.

On a side note, my dealer also carries New Holland tractor and said they were very surprised to learn that mahindra does not cover this under warranty as they have submitted hundreds of these claims for New Holland without any problems.

Any suggestion you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

[DavesTractor]

Tlr2,

I find it odd that in your case you lost a part of the telescoping piece. The inner piece I assume? One end is pinned onto the tractor, the other end is bolted to the lower arm. The piece you lost should have had a pin through it. That makes me wonder if you had no pin at all in the telescoping portion on that side. Even if it breaks all the pieces should be attached unless it breaks through the very hole you are using....and that was not the case. Some guys do not like to put the clip back into the pin as you can often just leave it out and gravity holds the pin in place...until it doesn't, and then we have a problem. Of course we will never know exactly how it failed, we can only guess. In either event, I do think that last hole would be better off to not be there. I do not think it is needed, and yet weakens the part at that location. Just my non-engineer opinion.

If you private message or email me with your serial number and dealer info I will make an inquiry for you, although I can't assure you of getting coverage. If we can't get it covered, just take the part to a nearby welding shop and have them make a piece of flat bar and punch some holes in it and weld it on. Because I agree with you regarding the cost of this part...it doesn't make much sense, although it is much much less than you are being quoted. We used to be able to buy just the inner piece for about $100, but I am not sure if they offer it that way any longer. The entire part is roughly twice that amount. I'm not trying to step on any other dealer's toes, but I suspect that your dealer looked at the wrong line when they told you $300. I would think a fab shop could make it for $100.

Ironically it is surprising that New Holland has seen hundreds of similar items break. That is a little scary in itself. But I guess about anything that fails in huge quantities almost condemns itself as being faulty in materials, workmanship or design. But then again, I do not have to write the check for warranty stuff, so I can be a generous fellow with other folks $$. :dance1:

 

[Jim Dodgins]

Both of mine broke last year on my Mahindra 3316, so I replaced them with a modified, heavy duty set from a ford tractor. No more problems. The set on my Kubota are originals, over 28 years old. Go figure.

 

[DavesTractor]

Both of mine broke last year on my Mahindra 3316, so I replaced them with a modified, heavy duty set from a ford tractor. No more problems. The set on my Kubota are originals, over 28 years old. Go figure.

I'm obviously a Mahindra fan, but for the life of me I do not know why they punch that last set of holes in that flat bar. Good point though about just putting on a set of aftermarket sway chains as an option.

 

[camshawn]

We have a 3616. Was at our dealer (handlers equipment) to pick up new blades for the brush hog and saw a broken stabilizer bar on the shelf. I mentioned that I had straitened one of mine and he said wait here. A minute later he return with 2 new ends. They have made these in their shop without the last hole as they seem to be breaking at that spot.
Cam

 

[AchingBack]

All of this talk about broken stabilizers makes me thankful I have the turnbuckle type. I rarely need to adjust mine, and when I do, it doesn't take very long. At least I'm not dealing with the demons of new technology.

 

[Sysop]

I guess they must be a lighter gauge than is used on my 4035, I'd have a hard time messing mine up I think. As far as extra holes, it is likely the piece is made with the holes, then cut to various lengths for various models.

 

[dismith550]

The metal in the "male" part of the stabilizer unit is made from cheap steel - pot metal or something. I've broken two of them - over $170 each to replace. Welding gets in the way of the "male" part fitting all of the way into the "female" part, eliminating the first hole, thus making it less useful. Does anyone have a recommendation for replacement parts, OEM, another mfger?
Also, my fuel tank gauge quit - anyone have a notion as to a minor defect I can look for?
Also I have a loader with a pallet fork attachment - I bent the loader arms apparently because when I use the bucket it engages the ground unevenly - as if the arms are bent. This is a tractor - are all tractors these days build cheap? Mahindra 3016 purchased Jan., 2011.
Thanks,

 

[DavesTractor]

Just weld up the first hole, grind it down smooth to fit and you will never break it again. I wish the first hole was not there. And then do not let the implement have too much side to side slack. I agree the price is ridiculous, but it is a 10 minute welding job and better than new. Tank gauges on most any car/truck/tractor use a pretty simple sender unit and it transfers a certain amount of ohms to the dash and the dash reacts to that. One easy test is to pull the wire at the sender unit and touch it to a good ground when the key is on and see if the gauge jumps to full. If so, your dash and wiring is fine and it is your sender. If it does not jump, then you test wiring and the dash. As for your unevenness, check your rear tire pressure, and if they are even, measure your rear tires. We have seen a few oddball tires that are off a half inch and that will tilt the tractor, hence an un-level bucket.

 

[dismith550]

Just weld up the first hole, grind it down smooth to fit and you will never break it again. I wish the first hole was not there. And then do not let the implement have too much side to side slack. I agree the price is ridiculous, but it is a 10 minute welding job and better than new. Tank gauges on most any car/truck/tractor use a pretty simple sender unit and it transfers a certain amount of ohms to the dash and the dash reacts to that. One easy test is to pull the wire at the sender unit and touch it to a good ground when the key is on and see if the gauge jumps to full. If so, your dash and wiring is fine and it is your sender. If it does not jump, then you test wiring and the dash. As for your unevenness, check your rear tire pressure, and if they are even, measure your rear tires. We have seen a few oddball tires that are off a half inch and that will tilt the tractor, hence an un-level bucket.

Thank you - it seems like an admirably simple solution - I'll give your suggestions a try - thanks again and peace to you.
dismith550

 

[Acethe3rd]

Achingback, where did you get the anti sway chains. I have bent, lost and ending up hunting one end on the slot arms. The ones cone out. I have had it. I like the easy hook up but the other is ridiculously Thanks.

 

[Acethe3rd]

Both of mine broke last year on my Mahindra 3316, so I replaced them with a modified, heavy duty set from a ford tractor. No more problems. The set on my Kubota are originals, over 28 years old. Go figure.

Jim, I like your idea. The metal is porous and breaks easily or it gas on mine. I welded them and they broke again. Not where the weld is but in the same pourous metal. I thought make the whole thing out of good metal and then just use the ends but if I could get the Ford痴 like yours I would have to worry with all of the slot holes. Thank you. There has to be a better way than what I have been going through. The dealer said they are having trouble with them, too. Thank you.

 

[AchingBack]

Achingback, where did you get the anti sway chains. I have bent, lost and ending up hunting one end on the slot arms. The ones cone out. I have had it. I like the easy hook up but the other is ridiculously Thanks.

My Mitsubishi built, Mahindra 2615, came with the chain/turnbuckle style stabilizers. Maybe those would adapt to the 1533.

These are a close match to mine. https://www.picclickimg.com/d/w1600...e-Point-Hitch-Chain-Stabilizer-Turnbuckle.jpg