Any one use these quick links

[JJZ 109]

A good way to use that shape hole is to pass the hook through the hole and hook it back into the chain, assuming your hook will hook into a link. This is also the best way to adjust the length of the chain so it's not too tight, not dragging.

Not happening. Didn't like the flimsy factory chain and S hook. Replaced with a larger, stronger hook & chain. No way it's going through that hole.

 

[Redlands Okie]

Keep in mind that in case of something going wrong there is a good chance that only ONE safety chain will take the impact at a time. The chances of both chains taking a impact at exactly the same time is slim. So ONE chain and its fasteners needs to be able to take some force.
Once the trailor is loose then its likely going to zig zag back and forth sideways for a bit, once again with one chain taking the impacts at a time.
For the times speed bumps and such might cause the chain to drag you can use put a bungee cord or such on the chains and strap them up to the trailor frame or hitch as needed. Keeps them from dragging and if something goes wrong the chains will still do their job.

 

[bcp]

If your chains ever drag they are way too loose. They only need 3-4 inches less than tight, so you can turn. I don't like seeing tongues with a semicircle of chain hanging down to a few inches above the road, but it is common.

Bruce

 

[CADplans]

This shackle can not shake loose,,,

Temco 2 Lot 1" 8.5 TON D Ring Shackle Screw Pin Clevis Safety Bolt G213 Style: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

 

[Eric_Phillips]

I didn't think my chain and hook would fit through the hole but they actually do. The hooks are S-hooks with keepers so I can't use this method to adjust the chain length since the chain will slide through the hook. I will have to see what the chain length is going to be like. I am planning on installing an Anderson W/D hitch so that will change the length needed. I still can't figure out what you are supposed to do with the quick links if they are not weight bearing.

 

[bcp]

Many quick links are unmarked. Others have a WLL stamped on them. I use the stamped ones on my safety chains.

Bruce

 

[rd_macgregor]

Keep in mind that in case of something going wrong there is a good chance that only ONE safety chain will take the impact at a time. The chances of both chains taking a impact at exactly the same time is slim. So ONE chain and its fasteners needs to be able to take some force.
Once the trailor is loose then its likely going to zig zag back and forth sideways for a bit, once again with one chain taking the impacts at a time.
For the times speed bumps and such might cause the chain to drag you can use put a bungee cord or such on the chains and strap them up to the trailor frame or hitch as needed. Keeps them from dragging and if something goes wrong the chains will still do their job.

I'm not sure this is entirely correct (though I agree the chains should be sized to handle max load individually). If the chains are crossed under the trailer tongue and the trailer comes unhitched, won't it be cradled on the crossed chains, thereby spreading the load across both chains?

 

[bcp]

I'm not sure this is entirely correct (though I agree the chains should be sized to handle max load individually). If the chains are crossed under the trailer tongue and the trailer comes unhitched, won't it be cradled on the crossed chains, thereby spreading the load across both chains?

I often see crossed chains that are so slack they are a couple of inches above the road. No way they will cradle the tongue.

Bruce

 

[Eric_Phillips]

In a perfect world both chains would support the trailer should it come unhitched. In reality both chains are rarely equally tensioned. Even in a straight line if one chain is a little looser than the other the tighter chain will take either all or most of the force.

 

[ddbackhoe]

I am looking for some quiklinks to help in connecting my safety chains to the hitch.

Just replace the hooks......search latch hook