Container Weld Shop build -

[Oldpath05]

Always nice to hear a rebuild anything working good like no leaks is a good thing, especially if it's a ship. As much as that FEL cylinder was leaking I would've wanted it fix to.

I think we need to go over the container blueprints again, are they going side by side fasten together with super glue, or on top of, end for end, breeze way inbetween, how much of breeze way, which way the square rectangle 6x8s tubes going, what are they sitting on???? I think we better sit down with some coffee and donuts and do some proper planning, remember the 6 Ps.

"Got some family stuff that needs taken care of"<<<<<<<Yes renewing your wedding vows and redoing the honeymoon comes first.........roposetoast:

 

[BukitCase]

6x8 1/4" wall tubes laid flat (8" side on ground) with appropriate spacers to level each container - layout something like this...

2' from north container to building wall. Only thing that can happen in the next year is moving the containers - then later the slab, finally the building which may end up stick framed instead of pole construction, not sure yet... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

In all of my 32 months of working with blueprints, these and those are unsatisfactory, maybe a 3d version would will illustrate the directional joining of these two separate container units into a more visible picture, or you get your Lego set out and try that. The way it is now I dont know whether I need a hammer, screw gun, welding rod or chainsaw.
:newhere:

 

[BukitCase]

Sorry, I don't have a 3D drawing program - that's just a top view, also known as a floor plan I did it in Windows Paint - nuthin' fancy about the building, just standard construction (other than a bunch more doors) - the added notes tell you how tall it will be at the eaves. Here's a local company that does things similar; here's their closest "stock" plan

Parker Buildings - Pricing on a Wide Variety of Gable End Buildings

Scroll down that page to 40′ Gable End Buildings, then click on "AD 340" - That's similar to what I'll be doing, only 48' wide instead of 40', and a LOT different door layout...

That's all the details I'm gonna have til it's a LOT closer to happening... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

That Sheds a lot a light on the subject, now that mens you must be cutting out some of center wall after the containers are joined and with what, cutting torch and how much, a big door way maybe?

Different subject to give your mind a break.
I have a 55 gal rain water barrel (steel) under my shop roof and is 15' feet from my wifes small garden, how does one hook a 20' garden hose to the bottom of the barrel so it can be drained out on the garden when it needs water, with some sort of way to shut the hose off? Oh and budget friendly.

 

[dragoneggs]

That Sheds a lot a light on the subject, now that mens you must be cutting out some of center wall after the containers are joined and with what, cutting torch and how much, a big door way maybe?

Different subject to give your mind a break.
I have a 55 gal rain water barrel (steel) under my shop roof and is 15' feet from my wifes small garden, how does one hook a 20' garden hose to the bottom of the barrel so it can be drained out on the garden when it needs water, with some sort of way to shut the hose off? Oh and budget friendly.

How about drilling a hole, welding on a bung fitting, and threading on a garden faucet mating with a nipple if need be?

Threaded Steel Weld Bung Fitting, 3/4 Inch NPT Female

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Garden-Female-Thread-to-Pipe-Inverted-Valve-UV65104/206827979

 

[BukitCase]

OR, even more budget friendly -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Black-Malleable-Iron-FPT-x-FPT-Coupling-521-204HN/100019280
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-4-in-Brass-MPT-x-MHT-No-Kink-Hose-Bibb-VHNSTDF4EB/205817701

If you weld the coupler an inch or so up from the bottom and turn the faucet sideways, you can probably move the barrel WITHOUT breaking off the faucet

"that mens you must be cutting out some of center wall after the containers are joined and with what, cutting torch and how much, a big door way maybe?"

At this point I'll probably keep the two separate inside, at least til I get a roof over 'em -
Reasons TO open them to each other are obvious (lose the "hallway" effect) -
Reasons NOT to open them to each other -

1. Containers are basically "unibody" construction - un-modified the 40' ones weigh appr. 10,000 lbs and will take a load of about 75,000 lbs when supported ONLY at the 4 corners - Modified, it'd take more of an engineer than I am to figure it out...

2. I ain't gettin' any younger; on the outside chance I croak before "mrs. frog", resale on UN-modded containers will be MUCH simpler - possible exception might be an un-modded container but WITH a built-in bridge crane :thumbsup:

3. The thought of sealing (bugs, birds, rain, ?) between two ALMOST touching containers that are CORRUGATED just makes my brain hurt (see comment above about a separate roof)...

4. Also, I REALLY want total segregation of NON-compatible processes - such as welding/grinding vs precision ways, etc, on machine tools, or ANYTHING wood-working vs. oily/dusty/sparky/slaggy...

On a completely different note -

I had originally clamped a 50' air hose reel to one of the uprights on my original "porta-shed"
But it didn't swivel (or lock) and I found that 90% of the time I wanted to pull the hose out 90 degrees to the LEFT of the way it was mounted

So I took one of these
Hitch Mount Vise Plate from TNM - - Amazon.com

That I'd got at HF for about $20 (now discontinued for some reason) - and one of these
4 Pcs Hardware Spring Loaded Metal Security Barrel Bolt Latch - Door Chains - Amazon.com

And came up with this


Now I can LATCH it at 5 different positions (nearly 180 degree swing) WITHOUT having to hold the reel with ONE hand while trying to "level wind" with the other one - the ones WITHOUT a lock on the swivel are too floppy for me...

The main tools used (besides the usual) were plasma cutter with circle guide, compass with a scribe tip (to mark where all the locking holes go) and the DP with XY vise (the slots in the vise mount are NOT compatible with a 4"x5" bolt pattern)

For now, it's just plugged into one of my "tinker toys" and clamped to the upright - but I also cut out the pieces to make a short receiver with a 4" wide 1/4" thick plate welded on it so I can BOLT that receiver where the temporary one is now -

What can I say; I'm obviously just a "modular maniac" :laughing: ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

Keeping metal working and wood working separate is a good idea, but I still would want a door way from one room to the other, which is what headers are for.

I see flaw in your air hose reel design, you have the spring latch on the wrong side, it should be underneath not on top so's in not needing a blue bucket or a blue top step ladder to stand on so's to unlock the lock from a locked position.

Here what I did with my air hose reel couple months ago, being a tightwad that I am, I always look for something that I have, that is no good and will work good for what I want to make. My air reel mount design doesn't require a locking pin or compass, I designed it so it will automatically align it self when the air hose is pulled on, the result is an air hose that wheels in straight and level, same when I pull the air hose out, it aligns itself with the point of origin, patent pending.

 

[Oldpath05]

How about drilling a hole, welding on a bung fitting, and threading on a garden faucet mating with a nipple if need be?

Threaded Steel Weld Bung Fitting, 3/4 Inch NPT Female

https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Garden-Female-Thread-to-Pipe-Inverted-Valve-UV65104/206827979

I haven't thought of a bung fitting, but isn't welding on that thin steel barrel a little tricky, hoping for just drill and screw clamp something together, I have heard of the redneck way of making a hole, save that for last resort, now I'll take a look at Steve's brainstorm.......

 

[BukitCase]

Here ya go -
Banjo TF75 Polypropylene Bulkhead Tank Fitting, 3/4" NPT Female: Compression Bulkhead Fittings: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

That, a 1-5/8" hole saw, and a male 3/4 NPT faucet :thumbsup:

"Keeping metal working and wood working separate is a good idea"

That's already taken care of, my OTHER shop is gonna be ONLY woodworking - the two containers side be side will be welding/grinding in one, machine tools and any other "high dollar" stuff (like multiple tool boxes) I'd rather didn't "walk away" if anybody's stupid enough AND fast enough to get away (from me, Mr. Mossberg and 2 dobermans) after tripping my alarm(s)... (Did I mention I tend to get irritated by thieves??!?)

A doorway could happen, if so it'd probly be a 3' weather-sealed steel man door - if so I would prefab a frame for the door, then use that as a template and cut one container with the plasma - the second wall would be easy to line up to the first, then I could just get some wide 1/4" flat bar and full weld (after a LOT of tacks) all around both holes, then hang the door. STILL ain't gonna happen til there's a roof over 'em tho...

"I see flaw in your air hose reel design, you have the spring latch on the wrong side, it should be underneath not on top so's in not needing a blue bucket or a blue top step ladder to stand on so's to unlock the lock from a locked position."

That ain't a flaw, it's a "feature" Actually, that's what happens when I get in a hurry and don't make drawings first - Didn't realize I'd done a couple things backward til the welds were done...

The GOOD news - that "blue top ladder" isn't there to reach the latch, it wuz just there to hang the reel - I'm 6' tall, and can just reach the latch from the floor - as I get older and "stoopier" I can always LOWER the whole thing a bit, one reason why I'll be BOLTING the new receiver to that upright instead of welding it...

Oh, and I remember your recycled caster hose reel, thought it was pretty slick - I just prefer one that locks the swivel - if you notice in the first pic in that post, see the black power cord reel below the air hose? That one swivels, no lock, and if you're CAREFUL and play "fishing reel level winder" you can just BARELY get it all to rewind. Let it swing on its own, and NO WAY you'll get it rewound without jamming up - my "level wind" method takes BOTH HANDS if the reel can swivel, but only one hand if it's locked... Steve