Container Weld Shop build -

[BukitCase]

I knew when I bought my mill that it'd be awhile til I had either room OR $$$$ for a lathe, so some of the tooling I bought with the mill included an 8" rotary table, an 8" to 6" adapter/backing plate, and a 6" 3-jaw chuck - one use I considered (but haven't done yet) is to mill a curved (radial) slot for position adjusting on levers - you would drill a center hole and mill a radiused slot in a plate, then drill 2 holes in the lever - one hole would be the center pivot, the other could have (for example) a wing nut on a carriage bolt so you could loosen the wing nut, move the lever where you wanted it and tighten the wing nut...

Since the afore-mentioned lathe STILL hasn't happened (for the reasons mentioned) today I used the rotary table/chuck to clean up the outer seal pocket in the gland nut of the cylinder I'm working on - There were a couple of rough spots due to removing the old seal's steel cup with a cold chisel

centering was a bit tricky, but I got it close and went slow; result wasn't perfect, but good enough the seal should stay put and not leak; therefore it's good enough

The setup - - That big handle on the rotary table turns the table 4 degrees per handle rotation - A lesson immediately learned was that I should have moved the main table so the cutter was on the LEFT side of the pocket, or turned the rotation crank the OPPOSITE direction to avoid "climb" cutting

And the smoothed out pocket -

Next comes the maiden voyage of the "twisty-bendy seal putter-inner kit" - can't be any harder than the way I did it previousl, so I'm predicting a win :laughing: ...Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

("Using that reasoning, God musta REALLY liked DOCTORS (as in, making 'em RICH ) - count the muscles that might need fixing") <<<<<<Rich........ all's I can tell ya about that is when the apostle Paul ask God three times about his medical condition, God just said sit there and shut up my grace is sufficient, he had to see doctors to. More things can go wrong with the human body than you can shake a stick at. I pulled a shoulder muscle 35 years ago, after a few weeks the pain went away then when I turned 45 that shoulder muscle come back to bite me in the donkey, still gets sore today if I do much overhead welding.

I dont think the human body is a very good comparison to hydraulic equipment, hydraulic rams on machines that I seen have nowhere near the movement ability as does the human body, atleast until they can come up with the Terminator................I'LL BE BAHCK...............

You gonna have to heat the rest of the gkan nuts so's to avoid a possible disaster with a milling machine? And the torque on the rod end bolts, wow 450 ft pounds, sounds like alot to me, I mean once tight is tight it's tight, you putting thread locker on the bolts, and you must have a 3/4 drive torque wrench? Now 450 ft lbs, is that like a guy standing on a wrench that weighs 450 pds. yes no sort of?

 

[BukitCase]

Yeah, you're right about the human body bein' a LOT more flexible than machinery (at least any machinery mere mortals can afford) - Still, the basics are similar, which is what I was trying to show in answer to your # of cylinders questions...

"milling machine?" - Let's just say that I doubt if I'll tear down that rotary table setup just yet

"wow 450 ft pounds, sounds like alot to me" - Here's the actual torque specs from the manual -
Loader tilt and lift cylinders - piston bolts @ 200 to 220 ft lbs, Gr. 8, 3/4" fine thread
Hoe bucket - piston bolt @ 475-525ft lbs, Gr.8, 1" dia., fine threads
Dipper cylinder - piston bolt Gr.8 1-1/4", fine thread - 1000-1200 ft lbs (NOT a misprint)
Boom cylinders - piston bolt Gr.8 1" diameter fine thread - @ 475-525ft lbs
Gland nuts for ALL cylinders - 100 - 200 ft lbs. Locked in place with small metal screw.

the last 5 cyls I rebuilt were about 8 years ago, no thread locker used - still together...

"you must have a 3/4 drive torque wrench?" Yup, got 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4", but one (1" drive) that goes up to 1200# starts at around $1000 - $1600, a decent torque multiplier runs $3-500; so the 500# bolts will get rattled on with my 3/4 impact, and the 1000-1200# one will get introduced to the 1" drive impact. Close enough...

All gland nuts (100-200 ft lbs) will get tightened with the adjustable 3/4" drive spanner and 3/4" torque wrench...

"Now 450 ft lbs, is that like a guy standing on a wrench that weighs 450 pds. yes no sort of?" Yup, more than SORT of - any combination of feet and pounds that multiplies out to 450 - so 450 pounds on a ONE foot long wrench, or 225 pounds on a TWO foot wrench, 150 pounds on a THREE foot wrench, etc, all will give 450 pound feet of torque.

Spent the whole day today on the mower, 25' wide fire break all around the upper pasture plus mowing the usual couple acres around the house/shop - might get the curl cylinder back together manana - once that's good, the rest can wait til I get concrete pads done for the 2 high-cube containers - need those done before the weather gets hotter... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

"Now 450 ft lbs, is that like a guy standing on a wrench that weighs 450 pds. yes no sort of?" Yup, more than SORT of - any combination of feet and pounds that multiplies out to 450 - so 450 pounds on a ONE foot long wrench, or 225 pounds on a TWO foot wrench, 150 pounds on a THREE foot wrench, etc, all will give 450 pound feet of torque. Steve

Finally an explanation even I can understand, it's a miracle.

1000-1200 ft lbs<< and I thought 450 was high, guess bigger the bolt bigger the ft lbs. Curious to what this wrench looks like>>>>("All gland nuts (100-200 ft lbs) will get tightened with the adjustable 3/4" drive spanner and 3/4" torque wrench...")

Since your a do it yourselfer, you going to make the foam, pour concrete your self and of float the concrete, before it gets cold.

 

[BukitCase]

"Finally an explanation even I can understand, it's a miracle" -
'bout time, I wuz startin' to think I'd completely lost it

"Curious to what this wrench looks like" - Looks just like this one

Amazon.com: OTC 1266 Adjustable Gland Nut Wrench: Automotive

'cept mine came from my one of my Case parts sources

Equipment Parts Source, Aftermarket, Case, Backhoe, Crawler, Loader, Dozer, Tractor Search results for: 'CAS1456'

"Since your a do it yourselfer, you going to make the foam, pour concrete your self and of float the concrete, before it gets cold." -

Yup, 'cept hopefully it'll be a "do it OURselfer" - one of the millwrights (now retired) that useta be on my crew (and his "young and still bullet-proof" son) may help - he's used my cement mixer more than I have, so he volunteered a couple weeks ago when he came over.

Won't know til I get the laser level out, but it's lookin' like about 160 bags of 60 lb. Sakrete (I think my "Black belt in lifting" is turnin' into a "black and blue" belt - once I get the FEL curl cylinder done, it'll be strong enough to stay put with 20-30 bags at a time - that way it can sit next to the mixer on ONE side, forms on the OTHER side, that puts the bags at chest height and I can just slash 'em with a razor knife and dump 'em in. Add a hose and a 2x4 bull float, and "bob's yer uncle"

Got things about ready to go back together on that cylinder (finally), so maybe some pics later tonite or manana... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Got a little more done on the cylinder fix this afternoon -
All the relevant pieces, including the new steel tube that brings the rear port up next to the front port (including 2 "convert-a-flare" fittings - basically a swage fitting whose ferrule is shaped like a JIC flare - saves having to TIG a separate piece and/or flare the actual tubing -

The old and new tubes; nut on the old one didn't wanna come off, so replaced tube AND the ORB/JIC elbow at the rear of the cylinder -

The new tube @ 90 degrees - different materials and thicknesses take a different amount of "over-bending" to get them to stay @ the angle you want; this one is 1/2" .050" wall IIRC, and it needed just over 3 degrees "over" to end up @ 90 - - For 1/2" steel and stainless tube, a roller type bender is MUCH easier and does a nicer job - this is the one I use

RIDGID 3848 Model 68 Heavy-Duty Pipe Bender, 1/2-inch Tubing Bender - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com

I might not have spent that much, but I have a LOT of projects coming up that will use 1/2" tube and some that want 3/4"...

Here's the stuff I'll use to keep the outer dust seal in place (just a precaution since I took a teeny bit out of the pocket when doing the cleanup on the gland) -

Got the crossover hoses (between the 2 curl cylinders) hooked up on one end - -

And this (the two JIC caps come off) is where they go, AFTER all the guts are back in the cylinder and the mechanical linkage is hooked back up -

That's it for tonight, should be finished tomorrow... Steve

Wow, only 7 more to go but probably not till I need the hoe; too many other "nice weather" things yellin' at me

 

[BukitCase]

Well, as usual the older I get the faster I USED to be - did get a bit done tho, here's the rod with all new seals, piston torqued to 210 ft lbs -
Gland nut, new outer wiper and front O rings showing - - BTW, that seal installation tool kit changed that operation from at least a half hour, down to about 30 SECONDS...

New piston seals -

Rod went back into the cylinder barrel only as far as the belled out section, then got stubborn - -

So I got MORE stubborn, managed to tilt the cylinder bellcrank back far enough to get the pin end of the rod pinned into its location, then the comealong to force the bellcrank FORWARD, forcing the piston further into the barrel.


Tomorrow I'll remove the comealong and that long linkage bar; that'll give me room to slide the gland up to the cylinder barrel and get it screwed in and torqued - after that I can use the hydraulics to even things up and reconnect all the linkages without dumping fluid on the floor... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Today went well; here's the gland nut, tightened and torqued to 150 ft lbs -

Good thing the head of my 3/4" torque wrench isn't any wider -

Took two comealongs and some straps to pull the linkage down far enough to retract the cylinder and get both pins replaced -

"nuther use for the "Tinker toys", let me get that 100 lb. vise out of the receiver and back on a hand truck with minimal pain -

Proof of the pudding - I topped off the hydraulic fluid, raised the bucket and exercised the curl a few times, ran it to both extremes of travel and HELD it there against the relief - not a drop of leakage (that woulda lost at LEAST a cup of fluid thru the gland BEFORE the rebuild)

That's gonna be the end of hydraulic rebuilds til the pads are done for the two 40' Hi-Cube containers - next I need to stake out the second pad and set up forms for both, Then I can get an average depth to figure out how much Sakrete to get... Steve

 

[Oldpath05]

I see I'm way behind on this fix it rebuild it and make it thread, I might get up to speed, maybe. Nice job on the cylinder repair, I can see it was way above my pay grade, what I can tell it looked like about a straight ahead 8 hr job, now do that per cylinder X 13= to long, good thing the rest are in a so so good non leaking working order.

Now on the the slab pour, when I had mine done I spent a lot of time leveling the sand to get a 6" dept, 26'x36' took me several days of scrapping, backfilling, raking and measuring. Then I call the cement guy to pour the slab, he verified the dept said I got it real close, he ordered the cement, I took the day off and watched him and his crew do what I thought was a great job and fast.

 

[BukitCase]

"Nice job on the cylinder repair, I can see it was way above my pay grade, what I can tell it looked like about a straight ahead 8 hr job"

Yup, maybe even a bit longer than that; been several years since the previous 5 I did, kinda got out of practice...

"good thing the rest are in a so so good non leaking working order. "

I wish - that big one that gets torqued to 1000-1200 pounds leaks almost as much as the one I just did, but I need the loader more than the hoe for a while, so the rest will probly wait til crappy weather is back -

"Then I call the cement guy to pour the slab, he verified the dept said I got it real close, he ordered the cement, I took the day off and watched him and his crew do what I thought was a great job and fast."

That's pretty much what I did for the slab in the wood shop; unfortunately the one I'm ABANDONING is too small for any contractors to be interested in, and I'm re-thinking the cost/effort thang - I want those 2 containers in their final resting place so I can get back into the actual TITLE of this thread again, so I'm gonna order a pair of 6x8 rectangular tubes (cheaper than H beams and plenty strong) and just set the containers up with a tube under each end - both ends of where the containers will go are 5" lower on the downhill side, so I'll just weld up some 5" "blocks" out of 2.5" square tube so they'll come out level.

Cost of doing that is less than Sakrete by a little, and less LABOR by a LOT (and since it's ME that'll be sharing in that labor this is IMPORTANT)

BTW, the rebuilt cylinder didn't leak a drop when I added one of the 6 foot tinker toys onto the loader and moved a Wisconsin V4 off the little trailer and into one of the containers using the tinker toys as a gin pole - BEFORE the rebuild it'd have dumped about a QUART of fluid just doin' that...

Got some family stuff that needs taken care of and some cleanup, then need to order the steel and prod my container mover guy so I can get those last two containers settled in... Steve