LT2042 issues

[ssallday]

My tractor hasn't been the best this year. Here are the problems I've noticed:

- Takes a while to start up even with the choke on.

- Takes around 5-6 seconds to start up after 2 hours of mowing

- When the PTO is engaged, the blades take a bit to get up to full speed

- The deck shakes a lot and does not operate smoothly while the blades are spinning. My mower went through 2 oem belts last year so I bought a stronger one off ebay. Not sure if this tighter belt is contributing to the issue

- The blades don't sound like they are spinning at full speed when the mower is at full throttle. The motor seems like it lacks power

I've never had any issues like this until the last couple of years. I'm not sure if they are fuel related or have something to do with the deck spindles, etc. The mower has around 260 hours.

 

[thepumpguysc]

"EVERYTIME" my deck starts shaking its BENT blades..
New blades takes care of the problem EVERY TIME.
I "upgraded" my blades from the MTD, find'm anywhere blades, to the industrial "gator blades"..{yellow}
They weigh about 5-10lbs MORE than the old blades & makes it hard to get up to speed..
The quality of the cut makes me "live with it".. I used to have to change my blades at least once a cutting season, {LOTS of sand}
I'm working on season #2 w/ no signs of wearing out..
The slow deck speed is probably belts..Or it needs a GOOD cleanin & greasin'..??
Do yourself a BIG favor & LOOK IN THE BOOK for the original belt #.. & BUY "IT"..
Ever since I did THAT.. its saved me a hundred $ every season from broken, stretched or thrown belts.. at 45.00 a wack, it doesn't take long to get into the hundred $ neighborhood..

 

[RandyT]

My tractor hasn't been the best this year. Here are the problems I've noticed:

- Takes a while to start up even with the choke on. Is the choke closing all the way

- Takes around 5-6 seconds to start up after 2 hours of mowing Could be related to the first question, but could also indicate a fuel problem, or possibly a vapor lock issue if the carb is getting hot.

- When the PTO is engaged, the blades take a bit to get up to full speed Is the deck belt tight and doesn't have burn marks or other issues, could also be related to your last question, Remove the belt and release the spindle brakes if your deck has them and make sure the blades turn freely.

- The deck shakes a lot and does not operate smoothly while the blades are spinning. My mower went through 2 oem belts last year so I bought a stronger one off ebay. Not sure if this tighter belt is contributing to the issue Bent blade or bad spindle bearing could create both of these issues.

- The blades don't sound like they are spinning at full speed when the mower is at full throttle. The motor seems like it lacks power

I've never had any issues like this until the last couple of years. I'm not sure if they are fuel related or have something to do with the deck spindles, etc. The mower has around 260 hours.

See the bold text with your quote.

 

[ssallday]

"EVERYTIME" my deck starts shaking its BENT blades..
New blades takes care of the problem EVERY TIME.
I "upgraded" my blades from the MTD, find'm anywhere blades, to the industrial "gator blades"..{yellow}
They weigh about 5-10lbs MORE than the old blades & makes it hard to get up to speed..
The quality of the cut makes me "live with it".. I used to have to change my blades at least once a cutting season, {LOTS of sand}
I'm working on season #2 w/ no signs of wearing out..
The slow deck speed is probably belts..Or it needs a GOOD cleanin & greasin'..??
Do yourself a BIG favor & LOOK IN THE BOOK for the original belt #.. & BUY "IT"..
Ever since I did THAT.. its saved me a hundred $ every season from broken, stretched or thrown belts.. at 45.00 a wack, it doesn't take long to get into the hundred $ neighborhood..

I had two oem belts and they both broke after a few uses. The belt I bought off ebay is much tighter and has worked very well. I bought new blades last season so I don't think it would would be blades, but I could be wrong

 

[ssallday]

See the bold text with your quote.

- The choke is closing all the way. Sometimes it doesn't start with the choke.

- Not sure if this would be the carb, but I've noticed the exhaust fumes are a lot stronger

- The deck belt is very tight and does not have burn marks. I have not replaced the other belt that sits on top of the deck (about 13 years old) but don't want to replace if it doesn't need it

- I'm thinking it could be a bearing now that you have mentioned it. Is there a way to check that? I'll have to post a video later of all the problems

 

[JRobyn]

Remove the deck entirely from the mower. Instructions are in the owner's manual. Owner's manuals are a free download at CubCadet.com.

Once the deck is out, I predict that your problems will be very obvious.

A too-tight deck belt is not good - causes excessive drag and wear. You can get a replacement for the OEM from these guys in Kevlar that will far outlast OEM - V-Belt Global Supply, LLC. | V-Belt Online Catalog

 

[RandyT]

Belt breaking after a few uses indicates that something is going wrong. Either not installed correctly, wrong angle/cut of belt not fitting pulleys correctly, rubbing something that is damaging the belt, or just being abused. I would be looking into the spindle bearings and any idler pulleys, as well as checking the condition of any belt guides that could be damaged.

 

[ssallday]

I pulled the deck out and check all the pulleys. If I'm correct, I believe the idler pulley is shot. I made a video just to be sure. The other pulleys sound ok.

Bad Idler Pulley?? - YouTube

 

[RandyT]

Small idler pulley sounds noisy, and would make a whining noise when running. The right spindle sounds like it could be dragging or a little rough also.

 

[ssallday]

Small idler pulley sounds noisy, and would make a whining noise when running. The right spindle sounds like it could be dragging or a little rough also.

I may just replace the idler pulley. The right pulley doesn't spin as freely as the one on the left. Would that be a bad bearing or does it need a little grease? There's a little noise coming from it but it's not that loud

 

[RandyT]

I may just replace the idler pulley. The right pulley doesn't spin as freely as the one on the left. Would that be a bad bearing or does it need a little grease? There's a little noise coming from it but it's not that loud

The bearings sound flat spotted, which can create a vibration when running. Had a brand new rider a few years ago that I had to replace all three spindles on because when running the vibration would make your feed go numb.

 

[Dave M7040]

Remove the deck entirely from the mower. Instructions are in the owner's manual. Owner's manuals are a free download at CubCadet.com.

Once the deck is out, I predict that your problems will be very obvious.

A too-tight deck belt is not good - causes excessive drag and wear. You can get a replacement for the OEM from these guys in Kevlar that will far outlast OEM - V-Belt Global Supply, LLC. | V-Belt Online Catalog

The prices offered in your link seem high. A BP158 for $45.

I have been buying Carlisle, Gates and another brand I cannot remember, BP belts for less than 1/2 that price.

Am I missing something. The "P" is the generic designator for Kevlar so I am comparing apples with apples.

Dave M7040

 

[ssallday]

I think I will replace the bearings in the spindle. Where can I get them cheap?

 

[thepumpguysc]

When you take it off/out it will have #'s stamped on the brg. housing.. just search those #'s..
GET SEALED BRG'S.!!!!
Theres a BIG diff. in "CHEAP" & "less expensive".. cuz theres ALOT of "CHEAP" brgs on the market..
Your probably making a big mistake by not doing all of them at once.. How many times do you want to take the deck off??
& if that "1" brg doesn't fix the problem, your gonna start 2nd guessing yourself..
You ALREADY SAID, 1 doesn't spin as smoothly as the other..
Do it ALL at once.. brgs, belts & blades.!!!

 

[ssallday]

When you take it off/out it will have #'s stamped on the brg. housing.. just search those #'s..
GET SEALED BRG'S.!!!!
Theres a BIG diff. in "CHEAP" & "less expensive".. cuz theres ALOT of "CHEAP" brgs on the market..
Your probably making a big mistake by not doing all of them at once.. How many times do you want to take the deck off??
& if that "1" brg doesn't fix the problem, your gonna start 2nd guessing yourself..
You ALREADY SAID, 1 doesn't spin as smoothly as the other..
Do it ALL at once.. brgs, belts & blades.!!!

It is annoying taking that deck off. Correct me if I'm wrong, but does each spindle have 4 bearings? According to the diagram, there's a cup and cone bearing. Would I have to replace all 4 or just the cup bearing?

It's on page 42 in the manual: Cub Cadet LT242 Parts Diagrams

 

[RandyT]

item 22 and 23 make up one bearing. the are a tapered roller bearing like a wheel bearing on a car. So each spindle requires 2 each of item 13 which is the seal, item 22 the taper bearing, and item 23 the bearing race as it is called. And the bottom seal is installed backward meaning that the open side faces out so the extra grease can be pushed out without pushing out the top or bottom seal.

 

[ssallday]

item 22 and 23 make up one bearing. the are a tapered roller bearing like a wheel bearing on a car. So each spindle requires 2 each of item 13 which is the seal, item 22 the taper bearing, and item 23 the bearing race as it is called. And the bottom seal is installed backward meaning that the open side faces out so the extra grease can be pushed out without pushing out the top or bottom seal.

Took the bearing out today. I can see that it's one piece like you said. I was surprised with the amount of grease inside the housing.

 

[ssallday]

Update: Finally found some time to replace all 4 bearings and the idler pulley. Everything runs smoother but the one blade still doesn't spin as freely as the other. The motor also has a decent bog when the pto is engaged

 

[Richard001]

Update: Finally found some time to replace all 4 bearings and the idler pulley. Everything runs smoother but the one blade still doesn't spin as freely as the other.

Perhaps the belt is dragging against the pulley.

The motor also has a decent bog when the pto is engaged

Well there you go. I don't like the electric clutches. Most of the time, you have to have the engine running at nearly full throttle when you engage the clutch. That's one helluva slam on the engine, belt, and deck bearings.

One would think that the engineers at the company could come up with an electric clutch that engages smoothly. Perhaps progressive increase of current thru the clutch coil.

Richard

 

[ssallday]

Perhaps the belt is dragging against the pulley.



Well there you go. I don't like the electric clutches. Most of the time, you have to have the engine running at nearly full throttle when you engage the clutch. That's one helluva slam on the engine, belt, and deck bearings.

One would think that the engineers at the company could come up with an electric clutch that engages smoothly. Perhaps progressive increase of current thru the clutch coil.

Richard

From what I remember, I don't think the pto ever bogged as much as this. People with who had similar issues were saying that the motor could be operating on one cylinder instead of two